XiTron Alpha Digital Power Cord

Bud,

Be sure to be sitting down when you first try the Alpha on the Oppo. There is no way you can be prepared for the difference it makes. Enjoy


Ordered my third Alpha today. This will go on the Oppo 93 in the HT. Also ordered an SR-Z1 outlet. I am having another 20 amp line installed on 12/23 for the two channel. This will be for the Cyclops powering the amps, and should make for a nice Xmas break.
 
Laughing or not. It is still changing, although less with each day. Bottom line it is a wonderful improvement, regardless of if it is past, present or yet to come. Just about everything is on target, but the last component of bass taughtness is not there yet, at least in my world!!!
 
Thanks. Actually, I used my Oppo to break-in my other two Alphas. Now it is time for one of its own.
 
Last night Marty and I had a Shunyata fest/experiment. Not surprisingly there were some surprises and fortunately many smiles on both of our faces. As you know, there has been a lot of talk about Shunyata's Alpha Digital cable with people weighing in on both sides and a few, well you know.

As someone who has owned each of the Shunyata Zitron products and gone through their respective burn-in scenarios, I feel that i am getting fairly seasoned on this front and thus do not expect to be surprised in this arena. Well color me "wrong" again, except this time it was not only a Shunyata lesson, but a psycho acoustical lesson- one that was repeated in both Marty's system and mine.

Last night's experiment started out simply enough with me picking up 2 more Anaconda PC, one for my Spectral 260 and one for my slightly tweaked BAT VK 32SE preamp. These replaced Zitron Python's which Marty was probably going to buy from me for substitution into his EMM XDS1 where he had an Alpha Digital PC, with some reservation, and the other was to power his Talos which runs his TACT which he uses for DSP full range/low pass crossover.

I too have Alpha Digitals somewhat newly (3 weeks) in my system plugged into my Meitner DAC and my transport. While more of a fan of the Alpha's than Marty, I had to keep chanting to both Marty and myself that the slight discontinuity of sound we both heard was a function of uncompleted break in. However on the positive side, and essentially addictive, was the marked absence of digital hash and marked lowering of the noise floor allowing many important auditory cues to be heard that were previously somewhat masked by the hash.

First we took the Alpha Digital (three weeks old) out of Marty's EMM XDS1 and substituted one of my Pythons. The difference was immediate and only became more pronounced over the next hour as the annealing proceeded. There was more bass with greater force and articulation after an hour, BUT the hash was back and gone were all of those subtle auditory cues that became apparent when the noise floor dropped. Said another way, we put the Alpha Digital back in and took the Python out. Both of us concluded the same thing. Clearly the Python is vastly superior to the Cobra PC (the basis of the Alpha), BUT the digital Zitron circuit is essential for digital components.



The second surprise came at both Marty's house and at mine, but for somewhat different reasons, producing the same end result. We then inserted one of my Pythons between the wall and Marty's Talos, where the TACT is plugged in. Within seconds we both looked at each and essentially in synch said, whatever was wrong with the sound from the Alpha/XDS1 was now either not noticeable or somehow being isolated/filtered or psycho acoustically enhanced. Although things were clearly not settled in yet, including the Alpha, this was close to the best sound I have ever heard from Marty's system over the years. Impressively, Marty, ever the audio skeptic, agreed.

I then returned home with my two new Anaconda's and one of my Pythons which was dethroned by the Alpha into the XDS1, and promptly put the Python back into the preamp and the Anaconda between the wall and 260 where there was a Python previously. Sorry no Typhon on this circuit, yet, because I believe it is better to get all of the cords right first and then there is the reality of the cost. My plan was to evaluate one change at a time, and in this case the Anaconda for the amp.

As I mentioned, I have broken in many Shunyata PC's, including Anaconda's and do not expect a lot out of the box, but this time I was wrong. Similar to what happened at Marty's when we put the Python into the Talos, the less than pleasurable qualities of the Alpha into the DAC at my house and player at Marty's were no longer apparent. What was apparent was the benefit from the lack of the digital hash and the return of all of those auditory cues.

Granted, in my system the soundstage has collapsed a bit, but then the Anaconda has only 12 hours on it. But even this early, the sound is so much more pleasurable and listenable than it was with a Python in the same location as the new Anaconda.

So in conclusion at this step, I have two things to offer:1) my music is more visual/real than before and not surprisingly more pleasing, even if there are some early break in issues leaking through; and 2) I cannot wait till everything has fully broken it to hear the synergy then.

My current plan is to retube the preamp tonight with NOS 6H30 DR-P's and let the new tubes settle in for a 100 hours before putting the Anaconda PC into the preamp so I can evaluate the tube change. Anyone looking for a essentially new Python 15 amp cord for $1500?
 
How do you know the Cobra Zitron PC is the basis for the Alpha PC?
 
Why spend weeks burning-in a PC using a DAC or preamp?

Why not just plug it into your amp for a couple of days?

Or better yet, get a Hagerman Audio Labs Frycorder.
 
Why spend weeks burning-in a PC using a DAC or preamp?

Why not just plug it into your amp for a couple of days?

Or better yet, get a Hagerman Audio Labs Frycorder.

I have a cable cooker, but I am currently running a fan through three daisy chained digital alphas - I'll let it run for 10 days. Those adaptors come in really handy.
 
I have a cable cooker, but I am currently running a fan through three daisy chained digital alphas - I'll let it run for 10 days. Those adaptors come in really handy.

How did you determine that you needed 10 days on a fan?

BTW, the secret to burn-in is not just amperage. It is frequency. The higher the better. A few volts and tens of mA signal at high frequency is more effective than 120V and several amps at 60Hz.
 
How did you determine that you needed 10 days on a fan?

BTW, the secret to burn-in is not just amperage. It is frequency. The higher the better. A few volts and tens of mA signal at high frequency is more effective than 120V and several amps at 60Hz.

Just going with Caelin's recommendation for a fan. 10 days may be generous. The cooker probably generates high frequency at low voltage. May be I'll shoot Shunyata an email asking if the cooker would be more effective for my alpha digitals. I still need to run the fan to get some current flowing though the Triton and burn in the 2 typhons hooked up to it.
 
Ordered my third Alpha today. This will go on the Oppo 93 in the HT. Also ordered an SR-Z1 outlet. I am having another 20 amp line installed on 12/23 for the two channel. This will be for the Cyclops powering the amps, and should make for a nice Xmas break.

Hey Bud...

You might consider running shielded #12...be sure it's 600V insulation...even though it's pretty hard to find. I ran stranded 12/2 with grd, shielded for my dedicated 20A feeder to my 2-ch system. Does it sound better? Of course it does! :)
 
Just going with Caelin's recommendation for a fan. 10 days may be generous. The cooker probably generates high frequency at low voltage. May be I'll shoot Shunyata an email asking if the cooker would be more effective for my alpha digitals. I still need to run the fan to get some current flowing though the Triton and burn in the 2 typhons hooked up to it.

Too bad you don't have a FryCorder.

You could plug a PC into it, and then plug the PC into your Triton and get high frequency burn-in signals into everything at the same time.
 
Just going with Caelin's recommendation for a fan. 10 days may be generous. The cooker probably generates high frequency at low voltage. May be I'll shoot Shunyata an email asking if the cooker would be more effective for my alpha digitals. I still need to run the fan to get some current flowing though the Triton and burn in the 2 typhons hooked up to it.

For this type of burn-in I would imagine that voltage will be mandatory and as you say cooker generate only low voltage pulses. The choice of the fan seems to avoid equipment generating fast pulses, such as those having switching supplies.
 
Too bad you don't have a FryCorder.

You could plug a PC into it, and then plug the PC into your Triton and get high frequency burn-in signals into everything at the same time.

I could not run the signal through the my alpha PC at the same time though, because I cannot connect the Triton to the FryCorder using a 15A connection. Only way to hook it all up would be with a 20A to 15A converter.
 
I could not run the signal through the my alpha PC at the same time though, because I cannot connect the Triton to the FryCorder using a 15A connection. Only way to hook it all up would be with a 20A to 15A converter.

Here's the set up, connect the alpha PC's IEC into the Frycorder and plug its male AC plug into the Triton.

Then, the alpha PC and everything connected to the Triton will get the FryCorder's high frequency burn-in signals including the PC connecting the Triton to the wall outlet and all your home's electrical wiring on that circuit. ;-)

You can't do this with the "other" cable cooker.

Plug the fan into the Triton if you want more amps.
 
Just going with Caelin's recommendation for a fan. 10 days may be generous. The cooker probably generates high frequency at low voltage. May be I'll shoot Shunyata an email asking if the cooker would be more effective for my alpha digitals. I still need to run the fan to get some current flowing though the Triton and burn in the 2 typhons hooked up to it.

Power conditioner and power cable burn-in is very simple and efficient with a fan. Just plug the cables into the power distributor and use one of our burn-in adapters to plug a fan into the cable. You may daisy-chain multiple cables in series and burn them all in at one time with a single fan.

Five days of continuous power draw on a fan is sufficient. If you don't want the noise of fan, then you can use a high-wattage lamp like a shop lamp.

RE: Specialized burn-in devices for power cables
These devices work fine for interconnects. We do not recommend them for power distributors or power cables. Most of these devices output a watt of power or less. This is not sufficient for power cable burn-in. Power cables need current and lots of it to burn in properly. Regarding the Frycorder: The use of this device could void your warranty.

The following is from the website:

Output Power: 1W peak (both Line and Neutral)
Signal Bandwidth: 1kHz to 100kHz
Modulation Sweep Range: 10Hz to 200Hz
Size: 2.5" x 4.5" x 1.5"
Power: 120Vac or 240Vac


The problem is the frequency that the unit sends into the power distributor or power cable. Power lines are not designed to run at these frequencies and most power conditioners will see this as noise and attempt to filter it. It is possible that a sustained frequency near 100Khz could damage the MPDA filter in a Hydra or the ZTron filter in the power cord. This would definitely be considered abnormal usage of the product.
 
Here's the set up, connect the alpha PC's IEC into the Frycorder and plug its male AC plug into the Triton.

Then, the alpha PC and everything connected to the Triton will get the FryCorder's high frequency burn-in signals including the PC connecting the Triton to the wall outlet and all your home's electrical wiring on that circuit. ;-)

You can't do this with the "other" cable cooker.

Plug the fan into the Triton if you want more amps.

In this setup the 20A cable connecting the Triton to the wall would not be drawing any current though.

Also, at the rated output of 1w, the Frycorder must be drawing about 10 milliamp of current. I'm very skeptical this is enough for effective burn in.
 
In this setup the 20A cable connecting the Triton to the wall would not be drawing any current though.

Also, at the rated output of 1w, the Frycorder must be drawing about 10 milliamp of current. I'm very skeptical this is enough for effective burn in.


If you got the alpha PC's IEC with the Frycorder, plus the fan plugged into your Triton, the 20A cable connecting the Triton to the wall will be drawing current and getting the FryCorder's high frequency burn-in signals all at the same time.
 
If you got the alpha PC's IEC with the Frycorder, plus the fan plugged into your Triton, the 20A cable connecting the Triton to the wall will be drawing current and getting the FryCorder's high frequency burn-in signals all at the same time.

I see - the current draw comes from the fan. I guess it would work. Strictly of academic interests, since I have no intention of spending $250, but good to know nonetheless.
 

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