If you had $20K to spend, what would you buy in audio?

[Lee]

Since the thread started I bought:

1. Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC
2. Jay's Audio CDT3-MK3 CD transport

The combined MSRP comes relatively close to the thread topic. I am very happy with my acquisitions!

Both excellent choices!

 

[Cellcbern]

DHDI ZR Acoustics panels like I have on the front and rear walls, for the ceiling and side walls; Acoustic Grove Systems floor units; vinyl setup.

 

[Al M.]

Both excellent choices!

Thank you!

 

[ssfas]

I was going to ask you a question about how this works with the Pulsar but it sounds like you can configure it as an HQPlayer NAA Endpoint. Does this 1) result in an improvement in sound quality vs. just using Roon with an Eversolo A8 as the endpoint outputting over I2S to the Holo May KTE, and 2) does it equal or exceed the sound quality using the Sense App with the Pulsar no Roon? Thanks.

Sorry, late in the day. Can't answer for EverSolo. My experience is that off board upsampling with HQP improves both my DACs - Holo May with DSD and Gryphon Diablo 300 with PCM. Indifference leads me to sell the Holo May. Less is more for me.

 

[No Regrets]

I heard some great vintage speakers at Vintage Audio Systems that were under $20,000. Some were downright inexpensive by high-end standards and they sounded excellent.

If that was my budget for a pair of speakers, I would go vintage. If that were my budget for an entire system, I would certainly go vintage and create a vinyl only system around a Denon DD turntable.

I like the idea of saving money by going vintage, and putting the rest of the money towards the best recordings/pressings and vacuum tubes that I can find

I'll try and attach a short sound bite from a pair of very inexpensive vintage speakers that I enjoy listening to. They are the Wharfedale W60's made in England back in the 1960's. They are a two-way, utilizing Alnico drivers... a tweeter and a 12" woofer. There walnut cabinets are very heavy as the rear panel is sand-filled to help eliminate vibrations.

This is not a professional recording! In fact, it's my very first attempt and very informal at that, lol. It is just simply me using my iPhone handheld horizontally with no external mic's, etc. As always, it's beneficial listening through a decent set of headphones vs your phone/laptop speakers.

They are being driven by my custom EL84 push/pull amplifier putting out roughly 12-15 watts per channel...


Best wishes,
Don

 

[AudioHR]

Hmmm...checking out REL subwoofers at the moment. It's interesting, not quite sure where it will lead. Getting any subwoofer right requires some diligence but I am leaning towards the you need subwoofers camp at the moment!

Probably would enjoy some really good speakers but $20k likely wouldn't do it. Can't say I am a fan of most modern high resolution speakers so leaning towards some kind of horns, that would actually work in my space, lol! To be fair I have for the most part listened at shows but would say that that listening to my friends high end $$$ speakers hasn't made me feel I needed to upgrade my price wise modest speakers either.

$20k used to seem like a lot, it still is for most but maybe not in today's hi end world. I could upgrade my digital end but from what I have listened to it would take me more than $20k. Even at that would it be a worthwhile investment? I listen to quite a bit of digital but for the best sound I am still firmly in the analogue camp!

Waiting for the lottery, lol!

 

[Al M.]

Hmmm...checking out REL subwoofers at the moment. It's interesting, not quite sure where it will lead. Getting any subwoofer right requires some diligence but I am leaning towards the you need subwoofers camp at the moment!

I am in that camp too. Just make sure that the subwoofers you choose are sufficiently adjustable. I find the ability of continuous phase adjustment of my JL Audio subwoofers essential for avoiding thickness or cancelation at certain frequencies in a given room situation. Mine are now set to a phase of 85 degrees, based on my particular setup and room. With my previous speakers and setup the phase was optimal at 55 degrees. It does make a meaningful difference if you can fine-tune in such a way or not.

In my medium-sized room, the ability to curtail the very low frequencies with the so-called "extreme low frequency attenuation" option on my subwoofers was essential too (the manual indeed specifies that this is useful for not very large rooms; those JL Audio guys know what they're doing and why).

 

[AudioHR]

I am in that camp too. Just make sure that the subwoofers you choose are sufficiently adjustable. I find the ability of continuous phase adjustment of my JL Audio subwoofers essential for avoiding thickness or cancelation at certain frequencies in a given room situation. Mine are now set to a phase of 85 degrees, based on my particular setup and room. With my previous speakers and setup the phase was optimal at 55 degrees. It does make a meaningful difference if you can fine-tune in such a way or not.

In my medium-sized room, the ability to curtail the very low frequencies with the so-called "extreme low frequency attenuation" option on my subwoofers was essential too (the manual indeed specifies that this is useful for not very large rooms; those JL Audio guys know what they're doing and why).

Well the REL do not have continuous phase adjustment. I think probably all things being equal it would be nice to have. As I don't have any background in this area I am finding it interesting how many different viewpoints there are on subwoofers. REL certainly has a different take on phase as well as their advocacy for amp to sub high level connection which has the main speakers providing their full range.

I did demo a JL, briefly, perhaps not the right one, I preferred the sound of the REL. Presently I am still fiddling with the crossover and level settings with just one sub right now. So far the key for me was finding the proper placement for the sub, this may play into your adjustable phase premise? The other sub has arrived but I am waiting for some interconnects. Looking forward to integrating the second sub soon.

Interesting enough REL reached out to be to advise me that given my high efficiency speakers and SET amp they recommended I use the low level RCA connection. I have had two lengthy phone conversations with one of their set up experts as well as the support of my local retailer so just have to say I am impressed with their support.

 

[Charles S]

I spent almost exactly this amount recently. I am enjoying my new streaming system immensely:

Streaming System: Hi Fi Rose 130RS Network Transport; Samsung internal SSD; Audioquest Wel Signature digital balanced 1-meter IC; Audioquest Diamond 1.5-meter USB cable; Audioquest Dragon 2-meter source power cord; HDMI cable 24’ for music videos

I have to say that the sonics I am experiencing have significantly exceeded my expectations. I like the AES/EBU more than the USB. I got a lot of help from the guys on AA who know a lot about streaming. The bass is spectacular.

Charles Updated System: Wilson McIntosh Audioquest

Amps: McIntosh: MC3500MKII (2); MC1.25KW (2); MC2.1KW Anniversary
Preamp: C-12000 Anniversary
Sources: MCD12000 Anniversary; MVP881; MVP851; MR87; Marantz 510LV; Lenovo Yoga laptop
Speakers: Wilson Chronosonic XVX
Sub-Woofer: Wilson Thor’s Hammer; Wilson ActivXO Stereo Electronic Crossover
Cables Main System AQ: WEL Signature speaker cables; 24’ balanced IC; balanced 1-meter Dragon IC ; WEL Signature digital, Coffee digital coaxial cables; Diamond optical (2); Diamond USB; Dragon (5 HC, 3 source cords); Thunder & Monsoon power cords
Cables Subwoofer System AQ: Redwood speaker cable; Wolf balanced subwoofer IC; Wind balanced IC to ActivXO; Hurricane HC; Firebird HC; Firebird Source; Dragon HC, power cords
Power Conditioners: AQ Niagara 7000; Niagara 5000 (3); (4) dedicated 20-amp lines.
Streaming System: Hi Fi Rose 130RS Network Transport; Samsung internal SSD; Audioquest Wel Signature digital balanced 1-meter IC; Audioquest Diamond 1.5-meter USB cable; Audioquest Dragon 2-meter source power cord; HDMI cable 24’ for music videos
Isolation: Wilson Pedestals; Bassocontinuo McIntosh Ultra Feet; X-material plinth
Cabinet: Double Custom Woodwork & Design (CWD)
Acoustic Treatments: Room and Echo Tunes

 

[bonzo75]

I like the idea of saving money by going vintage, and putting the rest of the money towards the best recordings/pressings and vacuum tubes that I can find

I'll try and attach a short sound bite from a pair of very inexpensive vintage speakers that I enjoy listening to. They are the Wharfedale W60's made in England back in the 1960's. They are a two-way, utilizing Alnico drivers... a tweeter and a 12" woofer. There walnut cabinets are very heavy as the rear panel is sand-filled to help eliminate vibrations.

This is not a professional recording! In fact, it's my very first attempt and very informal at that, lol. It is just simply me using my iPhone handheld horizontally with no external mic's, etc. As always, it's beneficial listening through a decent set of headphones vs your phone/laptop speakers.

They are being driven by my custom EL84 push/pull amplifier putting out roughly 12-15 watts per channel...
View attachment 149841

Best wishes,
Don

Hi Don, this is interesting. If you could, can you please record the Lola Bobesco you have for me - start, the cadenza at the end of the first movement, some of the third? Take your time. If you don't want to post online I will PM you me whatsapp.

 

[tima]

I like the idea of saving money by going vintage, and putting the rest of the money towards the best recordings/pressings and vacuum tubes that I can find

+1 to that !

 

[Al M.]

Well the REL do not have continuous phase adjustment. I think probably all things being equal it would be nice to have. As I don't have any background in this area I am finding it interesting how many different viewpoints there are on subwoofers. REL certainly has a different take on phase as well as their advocacy for amp to sub high level connection which has the main speakers providing their full range.

I did demo a JL, briefly, perhaps not the right one, I preferred the sound of the REL. Presently I am still fiddling with the crossover and level settings with just one sub right now. So far the key for me was finding the proper placement for the sub, this may play into your adjustable phase premise? The other sub has arrived but I am waiting for some interconnects. Looking forward to integrating the second sub soon.

Yes, placement may help with the phase issue. My space is relatively restricted in width (at 12 feet slightly narrower than yours), and while my subwoofer interconnects are quite long (10 feet), there are limits to where I can place my subs (Jl Audio Fathom 112v2). They are now between the speakers (whose drivers are 7 feet from the front wall); putting them further back has proven more problematic with integration. So for me being able to adjust phase at a fixed subwoofer position is critical.

Interesting enough REL reached out to be to advise me that given my high efficiency speakers and SET amp they recommended I use the low level RCA connection.

That's interesting. When I still had my REL Storm III sub, the high-level input was overloaded at times by my then 15 W/ch parallel push-pull triode amp that fed into it. The low-level input gave no less good integration than the high-level input, so I have not been convinced about the philosophy of the latter. The JL Audios of course only have a low-level input for the preamp.

I have had two lengthy phone conversations with one of their set up experts as well as the support of my local retailer so just have to say I am impressed with their support.

That's great to hear.

 

[hopkins]

I like the idea of saving money by going vintage, and putting the rest of the money towards the best recordings/pressings and vacuum tubes that I can find

I'll try and attach a short sound bite from a pair of very inexpensive vintage speakers that I enjoy listening to. They are the Wharfedale W60's made in England back in the 1960's. They are a two-way, utilizing Alnico drivers... a tweeter and a 12" woofer. There walnut cabinets are very heavy as the rear panel is sand-filled to help eliminate vibrations.

This is not a professional recording! In fact, it's my very first attempt and very informal at that, lol. It is just simply me using my iPhone handheld horizontally with no external mic's, etc. As always, it's beneficial listening through a decent set of headphones vs your phone/laptop speakers.

They are being driven by my custom EL84 push/pull amplifier putting out roughly 12-15 watts per channel...
View attachment 149841

Best wishes,
Don

Nice video. Archie Shepp's saxophone sounds a bit nasal - is that an artefact of the video or do you perceive it that way as well?
I believe the Wharfdale has a crossover adjustment dial in the back - do you use it? Did you change the components in the crossover? These can deteriorate over time.

 

[bonzo75]

20K won’t buy you good speakers, even second-hand.

Devore O96, audionec Evo 2, both can be found second hand at that price. For the panel and stat lovers many with restores.

 

[Rensselaer]

What do you listen to (modern digital as found on streamers, do you have CDs or old analogue vinyl)?
Are you ok with headphones, or want speakers?

If streaming and OK with headphones, Naim streamer with Audeze headphones.

If CD and OK with headphones, a good CD player, Leben CS300Xs integrated (or if streaming and CD, Naim Uniti Star) with headphones.
(If listening to vinyl, above but add the Leben RS-30EQ MM PHONO and a decent Rega turntable with Nagaoaka MP-500 cartridge).

If speakers needed, I bought used vintage Altec A7’s for less than £3000, reinforced the cabs with wooden batons inside, changed the crossover etc., add a Decware Sarah 300B Class A SET stereo amp with decent valves (£5,500+/-) because it doesn’t require a pre-amp, and run from CD player, streamer, or if you want a turntable I would suggest a used EAR Yoshino 834P (£870) with NOS Telefunken valves.

 

[Amir]

$20k -> Calling Stirling Trayle and asking him to spend 20 days for speaker placement.

 

[bonzo75]

What do you listen to (modern digital as found on streamers, do you have CDs or old analogue vinyl)?
Are you ok with headphones, or want speakers?

If streaming and OK with headphones, Naim streamer with Audeze headphones.

If CD and OK with headphones, a good CD player, Leben CS300Xs integrated (or if streaming and CD, Naim Uniti Star) with headphones.
(If listening to vinyl, above but add the Leben RS-30EQ MM PHONO and a decent Rega turntable with Nagaoaka MP-500 cartridge).

If speakers needed, I bought used vintage Altec A7’s for less than £3000, reinforced the cabs with wooden batons inside, changed the crossover etc., add a Decware Sarah 300B Class A SET stereo amp with decent valves (£5,500+/-) because it doesn’t require a pre-amp, and run from CD player, streamer, or if you want a turntable I would suggest a used EAR Yoshino 834P (£870) with NOS Telefunken valves.

Careful it might sound better than some 2 million systems.

 

[Al M.]

Careful it might sound better than some 2 million systems.

True.

 

[John T]

$20k -> Calling Stirling Trayle and asking him to spend 20 days for speaker placement.

If it has to take Stirling 20 days, that's got to be one complicated listening room...

 

[mtemur]

Devore O96, audionec Evo 2, both can be found second hand at that price. For the panel and stat lovers many with restores.

Audionec is a very good sounding speaker in my opinion. I had to listen it longer in Tokyo to understand its qualities.