Caig Deoxit G100

theclipper

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This may be a dumb question, but is there a set amount of time you need to wait after applying the DeoxIT Gold before turning the electronics back on?
 

Kingrex

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Feb 4, 2019
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This may be a dumb question, but is there a set amount of time you need to wait after applying the DeoxIT Gold before turning the electronics back on?
No. If you use a spray the propellant will evaporate in seconds. The solution itself is a very slow evaporation and should remain for many years.
 
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theclipper

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No. If you use a spray the propellant will evaporate in seconds. The solution itself is a very slow evaporation and should remain for many years.
Thanks! Looking forward to testing out the G100 on my system this weekend.
 

oldvinyl

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Jun 4, 2017
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I am a big advocate of cleaning. I don't know that alcohol has any ability to slow or stop oxidation. My guy says it would speed it up. A better dissimilar metal to metal contact.

2 dissimilar metals in contact with each other electrically react with each other. Its a scientifically known phenomenon. In most utility specifications for installation they say you will use Deox on aluminum service wires.

Deoxit is there to keep oxidation from occuring. Oxidation is an electrical phenomenon as electrons move from onr metal to another. I don't know if the reason we hear oxidized contacts is the process itself of electron movement, or the degraded contact loosing its impedance and having less current carrying capability. At some point it also begins to more aggressively anf arc. Then it burns apart.

I have not tried this. I don't know if I went through everything with a solvent and cleaned it, if I wouldn't hear a lot of what I heard using Deoxit. But I'm fairly confident that after 6 months the solvent cleaned contacts would have oxidation on them again and be loosing metal, contact and overall degrading. I am confident the surfaces with any brand of deoxing agent would be in better condition. Like I noted earlier, I used Yamashileld on my boat. A similar product I assume. I then wrapped the contacts in teflon tape, then vinyl tape or shrink wrap. The exposed ends where bolted to a switch or battery terminal are pristine 3 years later.

I am not a Deoxit dealer. If you want to use Stabilant 22, go ahead. Its probably 6 to one, a half dozen to another. I started the thread because I heard a profound positive impact and technically it should be a benefit and not do harm to use a quality deoxing agent.

I still feel a contact enhancement agent that can arc over like silver paste is dangerous.
Oxidation (the black stuff that accumulates on a metal) is from the metal's interaction with oxygen (hence oxi-dation). Dissimilar metal interaction is a different phenomena - called electromigration. Both will interfere with conductivity in contacts. Oxidation can also be more prevalent around contacts with higher voltages - such as power connections.

The strategy for oxidation would be to first remove any oxidation by using a deoxidant. It cleans off the metal - there will be black residue on the cleaning cloth or Q-tip. The above posts and references describe several contact cleaning agents that effectively remove oxidation. The DeOxit Gold and other similar products are meant to coat the surface to help reduce interaction with oxygen - and reduce oxidation. Some of these products also reduce whiskers - or creeping corrosion that can create unwanted conductivity in a circuit.

Gold plating on connectors is also helpful since gold does not oxidize (pure gold that is). Gold alloys, or blends with other metals, will oxidize but much slower rate than copper. Note too that there are products to clean gold contacts and different products for copper and other metals.

My strategy is to clean all the contacts once or twice a year on all my stereo equipment, including tube pins and sockets. I don't use any products to try to reduce further oxidation. Another strategy would be to first clean the contacts (remove oxidation) and then apply the DeOxit Gold to reduce the re-occurrence of oxidation.

As mentioned above, cleaning AC panel connections will take some sanding, buffing and mechanical effort to remove oxidation, deposits from electromigration and other contaminants. It makes lots of sense to use the Gold in this application since it would be impractical to tear the panel down annually to clean off the oxidation.

Previously, I have only used the red colored DeOxit. In my application with lots of tubes and tube sockets, I did not like the residue it left behind. Looks like I should try the Gold as a protective layer - applied sparingly. Thanks for the clarification on this product!
 
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MarkusBarkus

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...I think we are actually describing oxidation and in some cases galvanic corrosion between two dissimilar metals with greater anodic index/voltage values.

Remember when they had to rehab the Statue of Liberty because it was unsafe? The copper sheathing was "dissolving" the steel structure.

I think periodically cleaning our connectors/lugs/terminals is good practice. Applying a protective "solution" as @Kingrex described is best practice.
 

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oldvinyl

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...I think we are actually describing oxidation and in some cases galvanic corrosion between two dissimilar metals with greater anodic index/voltage values.

Remember when they had to rehab the Statue of Liberty because it was unsafe? The copper sheathing was "dissolving" the steel structure.

I think periodically cleaning our connectors/lugs/terminals is good practice. Applying a protective "solution" as @Kingrex described is best practice.
Good distinction - the galvanic corrosion requires two different metals and an electrolyte --- such as water. Given the location of the Statue of Liberty corrosion would be significant.

For my stereo equipment in my home such as power amps, preamp, phono stage, CD player - I am only addressing oxidation. Not too worried about electromigration, corrosion nor electrolytes (water).

For an electrical panel, there would be more potential for corrosion due to higher voltage and more exposure to the elements. Fortunately, my panel is in an insulated garage. There is some condensation in the garage at various times of year. A dehumidifier is used to reduce the moisture level.

For a boat - corrosion will be a fact of life.

To reiterate - I don't use protective coatings since 1) I clean all the contacts twice a year and 2) past experience shows that the residue build up in tube sockets ain't pretty. But this is for an Io with two power supplies and 32 tubes/sockets. Now that I am aware of DeOxit Gold, I might give that a try, it may not have the lubricant that their red potion has. Applied sparingly, seems that the contact protective layers will perform as advertised. Not including the silver paste of course.
 
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Kingrex

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Old vinyl and Markus are absolutely right. There are 2 type of activities going on here that degrade contacts. On degraded equipment, it is best to clean with the D, then wipe off any excess and use G over the top. And if you really want to make copper or aluminum look bright, you have to use the polish. But Rob at Deoxit said the polish only makes things look good. It is not improving anything. The D cleans best and the G protects best.

Thanks for clarifying Old Vinyl and Markus.
 

kennyb123

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Kingrex

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And for what it is worth, if an electrical contact has degraded so far from say Galvanic Corrosion and metal is physically gone allowing it to arc when bridging the contact, Deoxit will not stop arcing and fix the issue. If it has gotten that bad, you have to scrap the product and start new. It is not a fix all.
 

oldvinyl

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Jun 4, 2017
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Old vinyl and Markus are absolutely right. There are 2 type of activities going on here that degrade contacts. On degraded equipment, it is best to clean with the D, then wipe off any excess and use G over the top. And if you really want to make copper or aluminum look bright, you have to use the polish. But Rob at Deoxit said the polish only makes things look good. It is not improving anything. The D cleans best and the G protects best.

Thanks for clarifying Old Vinyl and Markus.
Actually - the Flitz product is a polish and it will de-oxidize. It will clean, polish, de-oxidize and protect. But, it leaves a waxy protective film - I go over it a final time with Kontak to remove the wax. Using Flitz does improve sound - reduces noise floor and reduces haze/glare in higher frequencies.

Caig DeOxit has a similar product on their web site. It cleans and de-oxidizes. Wonder why they said their polish that does not deoxidize?

These 2 will remove oxidation:
 
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Kingrex

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Actually - the Flitz product is a polish and it will de-oxidize. It will clean, polish, de-oxidize and protect. But, it leaves a waxy protective film - I go over it a final time with Kontak to remove the wax. Using Flitz does improve sound - reduces noise floor and reduces haze/glare in higher frequencies.

Caig DeOxit has a similar product on their web site. It cleans and de-oxidizes. Wonder why they said their polish that does not deoxidize?

These 2 will remove oxidation:
These are the 2 products I asked about. I may get some for my new panels. Even a brand new panel has tarnish looking spots on the bus after applying the D and G. D and G don't make them glossy polished bright. Functionally they are as good as can be. But an expensive product in my mind should have a bright polished look. That is what the CL products will do.

After polishing you are suppose to wipe it off and go over it with the G
 

oldvinyl

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These are the 2 products I asked about. I may get some for my new panels. Even a brand new panel has tarnish looking spots on the bus after applying the D and G. D and G don't make them glossy polished bright. Functionally they are as good as can be. But an expensive product in my mind should have a bright polished look. That is what the CL products will do.

After polishing you are suppose to wipe it off and go over it with the G
You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.

A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.

But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
 

oldvinyl

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PXL_20201122_210058115.jpg You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.

A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.

But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.

You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.

A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.

But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
Tube pins after cleaning with Flitz --
 

Kingrex

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You could always try Flitz on one of the bus bars to determine whether is gives that kind of glow. Then go over it with the DeOxit D and G.

A few years back, I used Flitz to clean and shine some large sheets of copper, it worked amazingly well. Any time I use it to clean copper AC plug blades, they look shiny as new.

But even when it is clean, as soon as you touch it, the oils from your hands will start the tarnish cycle anew. Gloves will help.
Does the Flitz leave any residue.
You can always tell who worked on switchgear many years later because there are very clear finger prints on all the bars.
 

oldvinyl

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Jun 4, 2017
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Does the Flitz leave any residue.
You can always tell who worked on switchgear many years later because there are very clear finger prints on all the bars.
I apply it with a paper towel and polish it with microfiber cloth.

It leaves a protective wax finish. I use Kontak to remove the wax and increase conductivity.

As I mentioned at the recent audio show, I live in Issaquah near Bellevue border (Cougar Mt Zoo). If you want to stop by, I can show you Flitz in action! Bring over a copper bus bar.
 

Kingrex

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I am going to take you up on that.
 
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Kingrex

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I got into the ends of my speaker cables and amp fuse. The Inakustik speaker cables have 2 set screws that bind what looks to be a strip of thick foil that encapsulates the speaker wires. I got a drop Of the G100 into the wires and I wiped the surface of the foil and interior of the spade socket. Then reassembled.

I also got into the Dartzeel and pulled the fuse, wiped the ends with the G100 and reinstalled.

Sometimes I wonder how much is in my head. I have no way to do a back to back. All I can say is I am very satisfied with how clean, lively and overall enjoyable my fairly humble stereo in relative terms sounds. And I only have Spotify on. There is no fatigue. No glare. It has very satisfying bass. Not like Marty's. But it is better than what I have experienced in the past with these speakers.

I feel like there is more coming at me that is digestible. It not making me work to hear it. Its a pretty high level of detail retrieval as compared to other systems I have sat in front of. My system is approaching a sound of maturity. Something I would not be embarrassed to have someone with a mega dollar system listen too.
 
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Ron Resnick

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Hi Rex,

What are your thoughts on cleaning outlets and contacts and connectors with 99% isopropyl alcohol?
 

Marcus

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All I can say is I am very satisfied with how clean, lively and overall enjoyable my fairly humble stereo in relative terms sounds. There is no fatigue. No glare. It has very satisfying bass.

I can confirm very similar effects in my system. Great product!
 

Kingrex

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I don't see any problem with cleaning an outlet and its branch wire with alchol.
 
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