Dedicated AC Line For Hi-Fi Setup

BlueFox

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Nov 8, 2013
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Originally, I had my stereo running on one dedicated 20 amp AC line, but I kept tripping the circuit breaker. So I had another dedicated 20 amp AC line installed, with one line for the amps, and the other line for the source gear. However, the breaker for the line with the amps still kept tripping. So I had a third dedicated 20 amp line installed. Now each amp has its own line, and the circuit breakers never trip. Plus, it actually sounds better with each amp having its own dedicated line. Unfortunately, I then broke both speakers by playing them way too loud. After getting new speakers I no longer play them insanely loud, and all has been fine for a few years.
 

ArnoFenn

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Oct 28, 2020
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Dedicated line, CB and IsoTrans works beautifully for me
 

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Lampie519

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Mar 14, 2021
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Balanced xlrs lower the noise floor it’s unbelievable
Yes, this is one of the benefits!

Others may argue about cancelling even harmonics more then uneven making a balanced system less "musical" and "cold" sounding,

Similar to pentodes vs triodes, push pull vs SET, etc.
 

Mikem53

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Yes, this is one of the benefits!

Others may argue about cancelling even harmonics more then uneven making a balanced system less "musical" and "cold" sounding,

Similar to pentodes vs triodes, push pull vs SET, etc.
I never experienced any negative effects from using balanced power.. Always a lower noise floor, but I never experienced any sonic degradation.
 

Big Dog RJ

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Feb 2, 2012
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Originally, I had my stereo running on one dedicated 20 amp AC line, but I kept tripping the circuit breaker. So I had another dedicated 20 amp AC line installed, with one line for the amps, and the other line for the source gear. However, the breaker for the line with the amps still kept tripping. So I had a third dedicated 20 amp line installed. Now each amp has its own line, and the circuit breakers never trip. Plus, it actually sounds better with each amp having its own dedicated line. Unfortunately, I then broke both speakers by playing them way too loud. After getting new speakers I no longer play them insanely loud, and all has been fine for a few years.
Nice one Bluefox,

That's probably the best AC installation so far. As described earlier, for your CB's to trip whenever the amplifiers were powered on, means that each power amplifier was drawing quite a lot of power upon cold start. The advise given, once again by Eve A, was to power each amplifier one at a time, wait for 40secs before powering up the other one. After which if it trips again, then a each monoblock will have to be wired on a separate CB's. I was having tge same problem when I used her massive Manley 500's, those tripped the whole house, dimmed the lights each time they were powered up. That's when I installed the isolator, all was well until the dam thing started humming... constantly!

What you've done is exactly how I've connected my particular setup as well. Monoblocks on a dedicated line and all source gear on a separate line, each having their own CB's. Not only does it sound better, it's squeaky clean and spooky quiet or at least I can't hear anything from background noise whatsoever. So something must have worked right when they recently rewired things.

The isolator as mentioned by Met, is actually the best way to go, which was also advised by Luke Manley, Eve Anne, and Steve from ARC, including Ed Deit from CJ at the time. This was because we experienced very bad AC mains, not good at all! There were times where the voltage would drop to 170v and suddenly climb to 270, terrible for a country supposed to provide 220v standard. It was nothing but standard! Hence, probably why we went through so many darn tubes...

Cheers Bluefox, and enjoy those fine tunes!
Big WOOF! RJ
 
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Mikem53

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Balanced power is something else...
Pardon, my bad. I got mixed Up reading another thread on balanced power.
I have run an all balanced system when I had BAT gear, as they had a true balanced differential tube setup, unlike other tube amps that give you balanced connections but aren’t differential.
What you mentioned might have accounted for the type of sound I was getting, a bit thin and lacking lushness.
Overall, I’m getting a better sound running all single ended. No lack of richness.
I use the balanced out of they Yggdrasil as it has to sum for the single ended connection and it doesnt Sound as good Via the RCA out.
 
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Lampie519

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I agree that there is also a difference in balanced and differential circuitry. I use mono circuitry (4 individual circuits in my preamp) until my poweramp as this has a differential input circuit to "correct" any unballance that could have originated in the previous step.
 
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spiritofmusic

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Balanced power aficionado here as well, initially an Airlink 3kVA unit, now a Westwick 8kVA one. 18mm SWA armoured cable split after main 100A breaker, but before feed to rest of chapel. Straight up to a dedicated consumer unit in my room, Oyaide line to Westwick, Oyaide line from Westwick back to the consumer unit...thence 6 Oyaide lines to 6 Furutech duplexes.
 
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MTB Vince

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May 11, 2019
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And yet another balanced power fanboy here. Three 20 amp dedicated lines with isolated grounds on Cardas duplex outlets (which can be user configured for isolated grounds). All three dedicated lines are on the same phase and on a sparsely populated panel that draws off a huge 600v-to-240v stepdown transformer. Despite the three lines dropping at different points in my room, all three armored 10/3 "BX" cable runs are of identical length avoiding the potential for ground loops. I have a B-P-T BP2 15a balanced line conditioner feeding all the front end gear along the sidewall. There are a pair of B-P-T BP3.5 20a conditioners at both the front and rear walls, each feeding the loudspeaker and subwoofer amplification there.



 
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Addicted to hifi

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And yet another balanced power fanboy here. Three 20 amp dedicated lines with isolated grounds on Cardas duplex outlets (which can be user configured for isolated grounds). All three dedicated lines are on the same phase and on a sparsely populated panel that draws off a huge 600v-to-240v stepdown transformer. Despite the three lines dropping at different points in my room, all three armored 10/3 "BX" cable runs are of identical length avoiding the potential for ground loops. I have a B-P-T BP2 15a balanced line conditioner feeding all the front end gear along the sidewall. There are a pair of B-P-T BP3.5 20a conditioners at both the front and rear walls, each feeding the loudspeaker and subwoofer amplification there.



Very nice
 
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Mikem53

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And yet another balanced power fanboy here. Three 20 amp dedicated lines with isolated grounds on Cardas duplex outlets (which can be user configured for isolated grounds). All three dedicated lines are on the same phase and on a sparsely populated panel that draws off a huge 600v-to-240v stepdown transformer. Despite the three lines dropping at different points in my room, all three armored 10/3 "BX" cable runs are of identical length avoiding the potential for ground loops. I have a B-P-T BP2 15a balanced line conditioner feeding all the front end gear along the sidewall. There are a pair of B-P-T BP3.5 20a conditioners at both the front and rear walls, each feeding the loudspeaker and subwoofer amplification there.



Nice setup !!
 
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Avidlistener

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I'm interested in having a dedicated 20 Amp line installed in my condo in New York city. We have to use BX cable here. The breaker box is in the same room as the stereo, but on opposite wall about a 50 foot run from the stereo. I run my entire stereo system (and separate HT system) off a Niagara 7000 power conditioner. I would like to terminate the 10 Guage solid core cable in a 20 Amp IEC, to plug directly into the power conditioner. Any thoughts on what BX cable might be best (and imagine steel casing would be best), or suggestions in general? I looked into cryo'd BX cable but was told it couldn't be done.
 

allvinyl

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I ran a 30A line from the main breaker panel to a separate breaker box, and a dedicated 20A line from there to an Oyaide R-1 wall outlet, which both clamps tightly and accepts 10 awg wire, unlike a lot of cheaper wall plugs. Both JPS Labs and Audience make good 10 awg (the ground wire is 12 awg) in-wall wire - much better sounding than cheap Romex. I used the JPS.
Do I correctly read the JPS site? The JPS in-wall cable you used is $37.50/ft? Or, is that per 10 ft (minimum order)? TIA
 

Cellcbern

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Do I correctly read the JPS site? The JPS in-wall cable you used is $37.50/ft? Or, is that per 10 ft (minimum order)? TIA
That's what it says, which is a price increase over what I paid. The Cable Company still lists it at $30/ft. Six years ago when I bought it the price was around $25.00/ft as I recall. The comparable Audience "Hidden Treasure" in wall cable also lists at $30/ft. currently at The Cable Company.
 
Mar 21, 2022
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I am using a dedicated line for my setup for more than 15 years. it makes a significant improvement over a wall receptacle. I tried lost of different cables and figured out a couple of things:
  • it has to be made of solid cores
  • it should be uninterrupted from electric meter to audio system
  • there should be only one fuse (right after the meter)
  • it should be made of good quality copper.
  • area of the conductors should be at least 2.5 square mm for 220V and 4 square mm for 110V
  • finally a good grounding is a must
these are my observations but they may not be right for everybody.

recently I came across Oyaide 102 SSC EE / F-S 2.6 in wall cable at a hi-fi dealer.

http://www.oyaide.com/ENGLISH/AUDIO/products_category/power_cord/pg466.html
https://www.monoandstereo.com/2014/12/oyaide-102-ssc-copper-cable-new.html

it has 3x5.3 square mm (2.6mm) solid cores with copper shield. I was very happy with 15 years burned in Pirelli cable but it wasn’t made for hi-fi by a hi-fi company. so I thought I should give it a try and bought that Oyaide cable.
I am really impressed by build quality. copper wires have shiny smooth surfaces and a color like gold.
it needs a lot of time to burn in but better bass control and smooth presentation are immediately noticeable over Pirelli cable which is very very good.
for quick burn in newly installed Oyaide AC line is arranged to the back of the refrigerator. after a while I will rearrange it to back of my audio system and hopefully I will get a better sound. now I’m just getting better refrigeration :)
Hi mtemur sir.
I'm from Hanoi Vietnam, and I'm running a dedicated audio line for my system. The cable used is GigaWatt LC-Y EVO 3X4.

At first we plan to run the cable from our inhouse electronic panel on first floor, with a seperate audio CB there into the listening room on third floor. From the inhouse panel to our electric meter outside the house there's another 15m of cable that was provide by the national electricity company. Now after reading your advice on a acceptable dedicated line, an uninterupted cable running all the way to the meter with 1 CB right after meter with good separated grounding is the way to go.
The problem is I have 36m in wall already (cannot be changed), with a CB for the dedicated line on first floor panel.

Now should I buy the remaining 15m and mannually connect the 2 cables, move the first floor CB to right after the meter ouside our house. Is this the optimal choice? (given we don't have the budget to buy the whole 50m of Gigawatt cable again to run it from meter to audio room like you guys advised).
My main cocern would be the manually connecting 15m and 36m cable part, will this degrade the cable quality greatly?

Are there any better choice now, using 2 CB, 1 right after meter and 1 on the inhouse panel, to avoid the manually cable connecting part? (Actually our electrician advised on going for the manually connecting and 1 CB route).

Many thanks,
Novacdjokotoet
 
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Cellcbern

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Hi mtemur sir.
I'm from Hanoi Vietnam, and I'm running a dedicated audio line for my system. The cable used is GigaWatt LC-Y EVO 3X4.

At first we plan to run the cable from our inhouse electronic panel on first floor, with a seperate audio CB there into the listening room on third floor. From the inhouse panel to our electric meter outside the house there's another 15m of cable that was provide by the national electricity company. Now after reading your advice on a acceptable dedicated line, an uninterupted cable running all the way to the meter with 1 CB right after meter with good separated grounding is the way to go.
The problem is I have 36m in wall already (cannot be changed), with a CB for the dedicated line on first floor panel.

Now should I buy the remaining 15m and mannually connect the 2 cables, move the first floor CB to right after the meter ouside our house. Is this the optimal choice? (given we don't have the budget to buy the whole 50m of Gigawatt cable again to run it from meter to audio room like you guys advised).
My main cocern would be the manually connecting 15m and 36m cable part, will this degrade the cable quality greatly?

Are there any better choice now, using 2 CB, 1 right after meter and 1 on the inhouse panel, to avoid the manually cable connecting part? (Actually our electrician advised on going for the manually connecting and 1 CB route).

Many thanks,
Novacdjokotoet
I had a 30A line run from the house main breaker panel to a (much smaller) dedicated audio breaker panel with circuit breaker, and a 20A line from there to a wall socket. Works great. Nothing done to the meter as far as I know.
 
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mtemur

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Hi mtemur sir.
I'm from Hanoi Vietnam, and I'm running a dedicated audio line for my system. The cable used is GigaWatt LC-Y EVO 3X4.

At first we plan to run the cable from our inhouse electronic panel on first floor, with a seperate audio CB there into the listening room on third floor. From the inhouse panel to our electric meter outside the house there's another 15m of cable that was provide by the national electricity company. Now after reading your advice on a acceptable dedicated line, an uninterupted cable running all the way to the meter with 1 CB right after meter with good separated grounding is the way to go.
The problem is I have 36m in wall already (cannot be changed), with a CB for the dedicated line on first floor panel.

Now should I buy the remaining 15m and mannually connect the 2 cables, move the first floor CB to right after the meter ouside our house. Is this the optimal choice? (given we don't have the budget to buy the whole 50m of Gigawatt cable again to run it from meter to audio room like you guys advised).
My main cocern would be the manually connecting 15m and 36m cable part, will this degrade the cable quality greatly?

Are there any better choice now, using 2 CB, 1 right after meter and 1 on the inhouse panel, to avoid the manually cable connecting part? (Actually our electrician advised on going for the manually connecting and 1 CB route).

Many thanks,
Novacdjokotoet
Hello Novacdjokotoet

1. If that 15 mt. cable from meter to panel on first floor is a separate line for audio then it’s better to replace it with the same cable that you use from panel to third floor -In this case GigaWatt LC-Y EVO 3X4-. Then getting rid of the second CB on the first floor and connecting two cables with appropriate connector or soldering is the best option IMHO. This way you can have a cable with one interruption and one CB.

2. If that 15 mt. cable from meter to panel is a common line both for audio and anything else in the house then use it as it is. Alternatively you can replace CB with Gigawatt’s.
https://www.gigawatt.eu/produkt/g-16a-power-grid-overcurrent-protection-switch/

More importantly please check your country’s electrical code before doing any of the above mentioned alterations.

Regards...
mtemur
 
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Big Dog RJ

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Very good advice on checking the country's electrical code first, before doing any alterations. However, Novacdj is based in Hanoi, so very similar to my former home town, Colombo, there's no electrical code, anything goes! There must be a code but I don't think anyone adheres to it. In Colombo the main electrical code in doing such alterations is first, try not to get electrocuted! And when you do get electrocuted, just make sure you're wearing rubber/ insulated gloves, that's pretty much the code!

Cheers, RJ
 

MarkusBarkus

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...I would recommend NOT soldering these joints. You will have something like the pictured fixture in VN to make a good mechanical connection, if not affixing into panels and breakers. Be safe!
 

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