LampizatOr Horizon - Tube Rolling Paradise
- Thread starter Golum
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It only works if your standing in the shower when you do it. Joke aside
Pulling tube rectifiers without switching them off can create voltage spikes that could
destroy coupling capacitors between the tube stages, for example, if they are operated close to the voltage limit. I wouldn't do that.
If it's "Class A" or "self-biased" - don't pull tubes unless you know what you're doing.....
Pulling tube rectifiers without switching them off can create voltage spikes that could
destroy coupling capacitors between the tube stages, for example, if they are operated close to the voltage limit. I wouldn't do that.
If it's "Class A" or "self-biased" - don't pull tubes unless you know what you're doing.....
Guys a bit of a help is needed for a good friend of mine as I'm kind of without a proper idea.
So his system is: NAT Transmitter monos, Kondo Preamp, Horizon DAC, CEC top transport and some Austrian speakers with active bass, TT I have no idea. Anyhow he loves the entire presentation but for example his TT rig he founds that it has tighter bass and a bit of a less of it which he likes. With digital he finds that mids and HF presentation is better than with analog rig. Now in H he's using Mullard ecc32, KR 5u4g and KT170 (which he liked more then OS1).
So question is - would you have any idea which tubes he could swap/roll to remain with the mids and HF he loves but reduce and tightens the bass response.
Not an easy one...
Thank You!
So his system is: NAT Transmitter monos, Kondo Preamp, Horizon DAC, CEC top transport and some Austrian speakers with active bass, TT I have no idea. Anyhow he loves the entire presentation but for example his TT rig he founds that it has tighter bass and a bit of a less of it which he likes. With digital he finds that mids and HF presentation is better than with analog rig. Now in H he's using Mullard ecc32, KR 5u4g and KT170 (which he liked more then OS1).
So question is - would you have any idea which tubes he could swap/roll to remain with the mids and HF he loves but reduce and tightens the bass response.
Not an easy one...
Thank You!
If mine, I’d start with isolators between the H chassis and plinth. This will tighten the bass but also sharpen the hf transients. Bin the KT170 in favor of KT88 to rebalance the HF. If still too hot, then OS1. Next bin the KR 5u4g for a 1940’s RCA, Tung-sol, etc. Anything else I tried here was better than the KR rectifier in the H1.
Don’t forget the tone controls (cables).
Don’t forget the tone controls (cables).
When I look at pictures of systems like this, unfortunately so often on WBF, my first reaction is one of mild horror. One has to understand a modicum of acoustics to properly set up a high end system. There are so many glaring issues. First, box speakers scrunched up against a corner, which is bare and not treated. Huge coloration from sidewall reflections. Second, bare floor that is highly reflective. Another absolute no no. You’re hearing the sound bouncing around the room far more than is good for your audio health. I could go on, but anyone who could afford gear like this should spend a bit to get professional help from an interior designer or sound engineer who could transform this system into one that is far more enjoyable. I see this over and over. Folks spend enormous sums of money on cable, tubes, electronics etc., but ignore the most important source of colorations, the listening room. That’s where I’d start in this case.
Good on you for mentioning this! It's probably something that people just don't want to hear.
Setup is so important but often under appreciated. Those that are sharing their audio system space with a common living area should probably be given some leeway as far as speaker/listener placement and room treatment. Still those that are serious about the sound seem to find a way to get the most out of their system.
Like you I think it is a shame that anyone would invest a great deal of money into equipment and not make the effort to get the most out of it. This doesn't have to mean renovating the whole room just getting the speaker placement right is a huge step forward and a great beginning.
I totally understand your point but not many have the luxury, despite the high investment into the gear, to have a separate room or fully/partially treated room to enjoy their more/less expensive audio gear. @takacs75 s mentioning flat screen in the middle - yeah i have it too as my gear is in the middle of the living room being used by entire family so compromises have to be made.
To move away from this discussion as there is no point to it - in his system as it is, everything is a constant and he enjoys the sound/system immensely with the SQ gap as indicated in my previous post above.
If possible remedy to the asked question can be achieved with the tube rolling in Horizon would be great, if not he'll have to live with it as is...
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Ok. As a rectifier if he doesn’t want to spend a fortune on ValvoG2504 I would suggest to try an AZ4, AZ12 or PV4200. Instead of the ecc32 maybe the c3g would be a good option in his system or the ef802. If he prefers Kt170 over OS1 I can’t really recommend power tubes.
One more thing. We’ve experimented a lot with mixing power tubes. An identical pair on the left and an other type on the right. With that you can further fine tune the sound for your system and taste. We had great results with e55l or e81l on the left and P17c on the right. Best of both worlds.
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indeed that works very well
I have been doing that for the last 1 yr better still is to use 3 different tubes in 4 positions and also the blend up the tubes in the middle position as well
Gollum. If he upgrades to 360, this issue will be worse.
Tubes can help a lot. The e55l are great for this
Tubes can help a lot. The e55l are great for this
He's sticking to H1 as he does not have an itch to upgrade. But the idea from @David also is worth of exploring...
I'm not sure whether your friend would consider additional accessories instead of swapping tubes, but if I had the same issue, I'd use the largest Carbide Base footers under speakers.
I'm mentioning Carbide landmines because viscoelastic rings (lossy material) inside them very nicely extend bass and introduce some play to it, but nowhere near enough to make that range boomy or overly cuddly. Well, at least that's my experience.
Apologies if not mentioning tubes is off the main topic.
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