Modernist Hainanese Chicken Rice

Keith_W

Well-Known Member
Mar 31, 2012
1,024
95
970
Melbourne, Australia
www.whatsbestforum.com
This chicken rice recipe differs from others in that it calls for injection brining then sous-vide. These steps will result in the most tender chicken you have ever tasted.

The observant will note that I have not provided recipes for the traditional dipping sauces. I of course make my own, but it is much easier to simply buy the sauces from a Chinese grocer.

History

Hainanese Chicken Rice, despite its name, has its roots in South-East Asia (Malaysia and Singapore). In Hainan it is called "Wenchang Chicken" and the basic poached chicken recipe is also found in other parts of China, called "White Cut Chicken". The recipe for Hainanese chicken rice was developed in Malaysia and Singapore by migrant Hainanese chefs, which is probably how it got its name. Nevertheless the dish has been exported back to Hainan.

There are two main styles of HCR - Malaysian and Singaporean. The Singaporean version has more savoury rice and tend to use a softer type of chicken with a less intense flavour. Malaysian HCR uses rice which is more plain. The chicken tends to be "kampung chicken" (village chicken) which is skinnier but has a more intense chicken flavour. Malaysians and Singaporeans think the other version is inferior.

I myself prefer the HCR rice in Singapore but prefer Malaysian chicken. Since you can't get kampung chicken here, I had to boost the flavour of the chicken by other means (see below).

INGREDIENTS (feeds 4)

- 2kg free range chicken
- 1.5kg "boiling chicken" (i.e. a retired egg hen) - usually sold for very cheap in Chinese butchers
- 200gm ginger
- 25gm goji berries
- 1/2 a Chinese cabbage (Wombok)
- 200mL Chinese cooking wine
- 1 head of garlic
- 2 dried konbu leaves (optional)
- soy sauce
- black sesame oil
- 1 bunch of spring onion
- 1 cucumber (as garnish)
- 4 cups of rice
- 6 pandan leaves

Special equipment needed:

- needle and syringe (or brine injecting set)
- sous-vide PID controller
- weighing scales
- large stock pot
- rice cooker


METHOD



First, make the stock. Chop the boiling chicken into pieces then cover with water in a saucepan. Bring to the boil. This step will purge the scum. As soon as the water boils, fish the chicken out and rinse. Discard the boiling water.

In a clean saucepan, add the blanched boiling chicken pieces, 8 cabbage leaves, 100gm ginger, 25gm goji berries, the cooking wine, all the garlic (reserving 2 cloves), and the konbu leaves with 6L water. Bring to the boil then simmer for an hour.



Next, prepare the chicken. Remove the wishbone and the fat from the cavity. Reserve the fat for use later. Weigh out 15% of the weight of the chicken in stock (for a 2kg chicken, that is 300mL stock). Add 15% of the weight of the chicken in salt to the stock (for a 2kg chicken, that is 15gm salt) to make a brine. Inject the brine thoroughly into the chicken as per this video. Tie a piece of twine through the chicken cavity to help you lift it out of the stock later. Leave in the fridge for 3 hours for the brine to equilibrate, removing the chicken 1 hour before cooking.



Strain the chicken stock prepared earlier and heat to 62C using a PID controller. Sous-vide the chicken for 90 minutes, making sure that the temperature reaches at least 61C in the thickest part of the chicken (the thigh) using a probe thermometer.

Reserve. Prepare the rice.

Thoroughly wash the rice in a sieve until the water runs clear. Heat up a wok over low heat. Add the chicken fat from the interior and render the fat, about 5 minutes. Discard the fat. Mince two cloves of garlic then add to the chicken oil and fry until clear. Add all the rice and toast until rice no longer appears wet (about 5 minutes).

Transfer to a rice cooker, then add 4 1/2 cups of stock. Tie up the pandan leaves and mix. Cook the rice.

Once the rice is cooked, the dish can be served.



Slice the cucumber and mound it on a bowl. Carve the chicken and arrange it on a bowl. Drizzle soy sauce on top.

Bring the stock to the boil and adjust the seasonings. Cut 1 wombok leaf per soup bowl and place the raw slices in the bowl (the hot soup will cook it perfectly, leaving your veggies still crunchy).

If preparing stir-fried veggies (a traditional accompaniment to the dish), do it now.

Serve the dish:







 

Keith_W

Well-Known Member
Mar 31, 2012
1,024
95
970
Melbourne, Australia
www.whatsbestforum.com
I don't think the presentation is all that special, Steve ... I just dumped the food on the plate :)

The recipe is not mine - the ingredients are fairly well described in the traditional recipe. However, the injected brine and sous-vide are my own ideas.
 

Keith_W

Well-Known Member
Mar 31, 2012
1,024
95
970
Melbourne, Australia
www.whatsbestforum.com
To be honest my plating skills are pretty abysmal, and in this case I wasn't even trying. I think what makes the food look nice is the photography - tonight I had the benefit of a guest photographer. The guy who came for dinner (another member of WBF who doesn't post much) took all the photos :)

I think garylkoh or his sister might have some things to say about the recipe. They might bang me over the head for using konbu and goji berries, for example :) These are definitely not traditional, but I find that the konbu adds a savoriness to the stock whilst the goji berries add sweetness and a touch of herbiness.

The leftovers of this dinner can be stretched out over a few nights. Tomorrow night we will be having wonton noodles with shredded chicken and char siu. The stock will be used to cook the noodles and wonton. Night after will be congee with shredded chicken. This time, what is left of the stock will be used to make the congee. Chinese recipes are nothing if not economical, even the bones are not wasted.
 

garylkoh

WBF Technical Expert (Speakers & Audio Equipment)
Sep 6, 2010
5,599
225
1,190
Seattle, WA
www.genesisloudspeakers.com
Wonderful recipe Keith. We add konbu to the stock too, but the koji berries are a great idea.

We also add a couple of drops of sesame oil to the rice before cooking.

Malaysians and Singaporeans also fight over the perfect dipping sauces for HCR. The quality of the dark, syrupy soya sauce is key. Either Tiger brand from Singapore or Elephant brand from Kuala Lumpur.
 

garylkoh

WBF Technical Expert (Speakers & Audio Equipment)
Sep 6, 2010
5,599
225
1,190
Seattle, WA
www.genesisloudspeakers.com
A couple more thoughts - Keith had black sesame oil in his ingredients list, but didn't mention it in the instructions. We typically drizzle soya sauce and the black sesame oil on the cut-up and carved chicken before serving. Also, a couple of drops (two or three in 5 cups of rice) really brings out the flavor without being over-bearing.

One trick taught to my wife by her chicken-rice selling friends - once the chicken is cooked, plunge in ice cold water. The colder the better. This makes the skin "crispy" for that genuine texture.

The day after, shred all the left-over meat from the carcass, stripping all bones carefully with a fork.

Fry some coarsely chopped garlic until fragrant in cool-medium oil in a wok. Turn the fire up to maximum, and put in the shredded meat. Use a couple of spatulas to tear and break the meat apart and add some dashes of Thai fish sauce. Toss up high. The idea is to make almost a crispy chicken floss. Sometimes my kids prefer the chicken the day after.
 

LL21

Well-Known Member
Dec 26, 2010
14,430
2,517
1,448
One trick taught to my wife by her chicken-rice selling friends - once the chicken is cooked, plunge in ice cold water. The colder the better. This makes the skin "crispy" for that genuine texture.

Yes, totally right...that part has been in the family recipe for years.
 

Keith_W

Well-Known Member
Mar 31, 2012
1,024
95
970
Melbourne, Australia
www.whatsbestforum.com
A couple more thoughts - Keith had black sesame oil in his ingredients list, but didn't mention it in the instructions. We typically drizzle soya sauce and the black sesame oil on the cut-up and carved chicken before serving. Also, a couple of drops (two or three in 5 cups of rice) really brings out the flavor without being over-bearing.

Oops, sorry - I forgot to mention that! I rub the sesame oil on the chicken as soon as it is cooked. I don't add sesame oil to the rice, because I find it overpowering. The sesame oil on the chicken is enough for me :)

One trick taught to my wife by her chicken-rice selling friends - once the chicken is cooked, plunge in ice cold water. The colder the better. This makes the skin "crispy" for that genuine texture.

I don't do that any more because it washes the gelatin away and makes the chicken taste more bland.

Anyway, there are plenty of disagreements and controversies when it comes to cooking HCR. It's as bad as Apple vs. Samsung ;) Singaporeans and Malaysians will never agree!
 

garylkoh

WBF Technical Expert (Speakers & Audio Equipment)
Sep 6, 2010
5,599
225
1,190
Seattle, WA
www.genesisloudspeakers.com
Anyway, there are plenty of disagreements and controversies when it comes to cooking HCR. It's as bad as Apple vs. Samsung ;) Singaporeans and Malaysians will never agree!

Too right!! Let's not bring those controversies into the cooking forum too ;)
 

astrotoy

VIP/Donor
May 24, 2010
1,551
1,020
1,715
SF Bay Area
My sister-in-law, who had lived in Singapore recommended a restaurant to us for HCR on our first visit to Singapore about 15 years ago. Quite a treat. However, I have never heard of the Malaysian version - looking forward to having it if we get to Kuala Lumpur sometime in the future. I may even try your recipe. Thanks.

Larry
 

About us

  • What’s Best Forum is THE forum for high end audio, product reviews, advice and sharing experiences on the best of everything else. This is THE place where audiophiles and audio companies discuss vintage, contemporary and new audio products, music servers, music streamers, computer audio, digital-to-analog converters, turntables, phono stages, cartridges, reel-to-reel tape machines, speakers, headphones and tube and solid-state amplification. Founded in 2010 What’s Best Forum invites intelligent and courteous people of all interests and backgrounds to describe and discuss the best of everything. From beginners to life-long hobbyists to industry professionals, we enjoy learning about new things and meeting new people, and participating in spirited debates.

Quick Navigation

User Menu

Steve Williams
Site Founder | Site Owner | Administrator
Ron Resnick
Site Co-Owner | Administrator
Julian (The Fixer)
Website Build | Marketing Managersing