Studer A80R

[Persve]

Hello!
I am going to pick up an A80R tonight. Caps and bearings will be changed but there is one other problem I hope you can help me with?! The knobs for play, forward......will not stay in position so you have to hold down for function! Anyone had this problem? Does capchange solve it or do you have to search in the logic cards?
Best regards
Per

 

[kipdent]

The behavior you describe might be due to something wrong with the optical sensor that normally detects either no tape or clear/translucent leader tape so that the machine automatically stops after a full rewind or fast-forward. At least this is worth looking into.

 

[Persve]

Thank you kipdent! The optical sensor seems to works as it stops normally at the ene! The counter also does not work but functions properly in play- and editmode! Might it be a problem with ics in the logik?

 

[Persve]

..... And the knobs also works properly in play and Edit!

 

[jdza]

I have the same problem on one of my machines. By swopping cards from a healthy machine ,I have traced the problem to card 1.080.393. I cannot tell you what the problem on the card is yet.My Tech has gone through the card to fix obvious problems to no avail so I have to move the complete machine to him - and that takes a lot of effort.

 

[christensenleif@msn.com]

like I told you...recap the machine and then you can do the diagnostics....

 

[Persve]

Thank you jdza! Please keep us posted! And hello Leif! It will be recapped the coming 2 weeks and then we will see!

 

[christensenleif@msn.com]

the 391 board is on suspect list

 

[microstrip]

I have the same problem on one of my machines. By swopping cards from a healthy machine ,I have traced the problem to card 1.080.393. I cannot tell you what the problem on the card is yet.My Tech has gone through the card to fix obvious problems to no avail so I have to move the complete machine to him - and that takes a lot of effort.

Yes, card 1.080.393. is hard to diagnose. It includes a lot of logical ICs from the 74 series, unfortunately soldered to the board. Otherwise, I would suggest immediate replacement of the ICs, they are very cheap and easy to get. Capacitors are mainly film polyester type - the yellow plastic box type - and as far as I know they are not known for needing replacement. We need the schematic, and extender and a logic pen to follow the circuit and diagnose it.

 

[christensenleif@msn.com]

best is to have a complete set of spare cards or like me, two RCs
just swap til faulty board is located

 

[Persve]

First we will replace all caps ( and some tantals and resistors )! If not working we will check the 391 board and if necessary the 393!
Thats a good idea! I will think about buying sparecards!

 

[microstrip]

First we will replace all caps ( and some tantals and resistors )! If not working we will check the 391 board and if nessary the 393!
Thats a good idea! I will think about buying sparecards!

Be careful - some of the usually called "Studer tantals" because of their aspect are high quality solid aluminum capacitors that do not need to be replaced. http://www.vishay.com/docs/28354/128salrpm.pdf

 

[15IPS]

Be careful - some of the usually called "Studer tantals" because of their aspect are high quality solid aluminum capacitors that do not need to be replaced. http://www.vishay.com/docs/28354/128salrpm.pdf

Unless they're shorted. Most A80's used tantalums (yellow) vs. the orange solid aluminum types used in the A800 forward. Getting back to the issue, change that big ass electrolytic on the logic board and clean the edge connections with a white pencil eraser and reseat. I've never had one of those cards go bad.