My Magnepan 20.1 active with Atma-sphere MA-1 amps. A killer combo.

[Nuforce]

Thought I'd share my 20.1 setup.

I run atma-sphere MA-1 OTLs for the mid-bass/ treble and 600w Emotiva monos for the bass panels.

I've tried a host of amps on these and the MA-1 offers easily the most natural and transparent sound. Magnepan and Atma-sphere work wonderfully together!

I use a sublime Audio k231 analogue crossover (which is being fixed under warranty so not in the photo).

Front end is Aqua LinQ into an Acuhorn R2R DAC with 112A DHT tubes.

Preamp is KR Audio P135 with EML 45 Mesh Globes.

 

[Ron Resnick]

That must be a wonderful-sounding set-up!

Are the 20.1s easier to bi-amp than the 20.7s?

 

[Bbock]

Thought I'd share my 20.1 setup.

I run atma-sphere MA-1 OTLs for the mid-bass/ treble and 600w Emotiva monos for the bass panels.

I've tried a host of amps on these and the MA-1 offers easily the most natural and transparent sound. Magnepan and Atma-sphere work wonderfully together!

I use a sublime Audio k231 analogue crossover (which is being fixed under warranty so not in the photo).

Front end is Aqua LinQ into an Acuhorn R2R DAC with 112A DHT tubes.

Preamp is KR Audio P135 with EML 45 Mesh Globes.

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How do the MA-1s sound full range?

 

[Nuforce]

That must be a wonderful-sounding set-up!

Are the 20.1s easier to bi-amp than the 20.7s?

Well the 20.1 has a huge and very heavy external crossover which I store in a box as I use a high quality analogue crossover.

This allows active bi-amping with dual benefit of bypassing of poor quality passive crossover parts and the ability to use tube amps on the top end whilst maintaining solid state high power for the push pull bass panels.

AFAIK the 20.7 can't be bi-amped

 

[Nuforce]

How do the MA-1s sound full range?

I've never tried powering the 20.1 through the passive crossover and just the MA-1, I highly doubt they would cope with "only" 140w.

 

[DonH50]

That must be a wonderful-sounding set-up!

Are the 20.1s easier to bi-amp than the 20.7s?

Well the 20.1 has a huge and very heavy external crossover which I store in a box as I use a high quality analogue crossover.

This allows active bi-amping with dual benefit of bypassing of poor quality passive crossover parts and the ability to use tube amps on the top end whilst maintaining solid state high power for the push pull bass panels.

AFAIK the 20.7 can't be bi-amped

Correct, they not only eliminated the external crossover, but there is only one set of amplifier terminals on the back of the 20.7. No separate bass and mid/tweeter inputs, so to bi-amp you'd have to disassemble and wire it in yourself.

 

[Gregadd]

Counterintuitive. But beautiful.

 

[Nuforce]

Correct, they not only eliminated the external crossover, but there is only one set of amplifier terminals on the back of the 20.7. No separate bass and mid/tweeter inputs, so to bi-amp you'd have to disassemble and wire it in yourself.

I've always wondered if the 20.7 can be modified to bypass their passive components.

The only speakers I can eventually see myself replacing the 20.1 for would be the 20.7, purely to get a new pair for future proof reliability (mine are 100% ok but will eventually develop issues as they must be at least a decade old).

Decoupling the different panels with an active crossover opens up the magnepan owner to the world of triodes, rather than pentode based circuits which are nice but not as nice, in my experience

 

[the sound of Tao]

I've always wondered if the 20.7 can be modified to bypass their passive components.

The only speakers I can eventually see myself replacing the 20.1 for would be the 20.7, purely to get a new pair for future proof reliability (mine are 100% ok but will eventually develop issues as they must be at least a decade old).

Decoupling the different panels with an active crossover opens up the magnepan owner to the world of triodes, rather than pentode based circuits which are nice but not as nice, in my experience

I’m not sure how you’re going to get around a lack of coherence if you biamp them with different amps let alone with different topologies… I tried that several times and even just with adding subs the 20.7s reveal any disparity fairly quickly if you do try… in the end everything’s a trade I guess.

 

[tima]

if you biamp them with different amps

I thought this was a no-no.

 

[Nuforce]

I've had zero issue using different amps for the bass panels.

I use a 110hz cut off card in my sublime Audio crossover and then I apply parametric EQ room correction ahead of my streamer via my NUC and Audirvana and the sound is sublime.

Using another pair of atma-sphere MA-1 amps just for 25-110hz would be completely absurd.

Hell my Emotiva are probably overkill, a crown PA amp would probably suffice

 

[tima]

How do the MA-1s sound full range?

With the right speaker, they are excellent.

There is a vocalist, primarily a back-up singer, name Willie Greene Jr. Some claim he can hit notes below the bottom C on a piano (~32Hz). Listen to the track "It Feels Like Rain" on Aaron Neville's album "Warm Your Heart". The MA-1 Mk3 is the only amp I've heard that pulled his rich basso profundo to the surface out of a line of backup singers. That is in comparison to amps such as Lamm solid-state and ARC 250SE.

 

[the sound of Tao]

I thought this was a no-no.

I only tried to couple them with subs but any kind of disparity with drivers or amps was just really obvious. They are revealing speakers for sure but everyone just has different sensitivities, I find incoherence really just glaring.

 

[tima]

I only tried to couple them with subs but any kind of disparity with drivers or amps was just really obvious. They are revealing speakers for sure but everyone just has different sensitivities, I find incoherence really just glaring.

And I wasn't thinking of Magnepan specifically. Everything I've read and the experts I listen to say use the same amp for bi-amping two different frequency ranges. Can that be expensive - well sure, it's the cost of bi-amping.

Nuforce I cannot speak to your scenario as I have not heard it. If you like you system, that's great. I did enjoy my time with the MA-1s.

 

[Gregadd]

I've always wondered if the 20.7 can be modified to bypass their passive components.

The only speakers I can eventually see myself replacing the 20.1 for would be the 20.7, purely to get a new pair for future proof reliability (mine are 100% ok but will eventually develop issues as they must be at least a decade old).[ephasis supplied]

Decoupling the different panels with an active crossover opens up the Magnepan owner to the world of triodes, rather than pentode based circuits which are nice but not as nice, in my experience

It depends on what you mean by "issues." It is one of the most reliable speakers on the market. It is a much simpler design than the 20.1. I purchased a pair of MG1 in 1977. They work fine except for a few cosmetic issues.

 

[Nuforce]

It depends on what you mean by "issues." It is one of the most reliable speakers on the market. It is a much simpler design than the 20.1. I purchased a pair of MG1 in 1977. They work fine except for a few cosmetic issues.

I guess you are right. I did experience a slight rattle on one speaker a couple of years ago and all I did was tighten up all the screws holding the two panels together and all was good again.

Out of interest, is there much difference between the 20.1 and 20.7, I read somewhere that where were almost identical?

 

[Gregadd]

[Text Omitted] "Out of interest, is there much difference between the 20.1 and 20.7, I read somewhere that where were almost identical?"
I don't sufficient exposure to make that call. But there has been a lot of development on the tweeter.
See this tas review

 

[Nuforce]

[Text Omitted] "Out of interest, is there much difference between the 20.1 and 20.7, I read somewhere that where were almost identical?"
I don't sufficient exposure to make that call. But there has been a lot of development on the tweeter.
See this tas review

Having read it, it appears that the changes were mainly in the crossover which isn't relevant to me since I use a very high quality analogue crossover.

Can't help but wonder if the 20.1 run active is therefore actually superior to the 20.7...

 

[Bbock]

So I’ve had 20.1s for about 15 years, moving from Apogee Scintilla’s that needed a complete refurb. At that time, I decided on tube amplification over SS after auditioning the usual suspects at that time (Bryston, Krell, Classe, Spectral, Mark Levinson, et al). Now granted, I have 250 watts of pentode power running full range, but given my room setup, I’ve never felt the need for subs. I feel lucky in this regard — I get down to 30-32 hz just fine. I’ve spent a lot of time fine tuning the system over the years. Doesn’t make it any where near perfect, but it sure is musical. Both amplifiers and speakers have been 100% reliable


I can certainly understand why people use subs with Maggie’s. There’s not that distinctive “cone” slam, which granted is attractive and necessary for some kind of music. Sometimes, the room just can’t generate the low bass properly. Other times low is just not low enough.

I guess what I’ve read over the years is that there are many solutions to having Maggie’s reach their potential. What I’ve enjoyed is being able to easily hear when changes make a difference and then decided whether that difference is in the right direction, for example, cabling, power, and tubes.

Now what’s next? Maybe getting itchy to hear the Atmas-phere class D mono’s? 2 per side?

 

[Nuforce]

I measured 27hz in my large listening room last time I took REW room measurements. I have absolutely no need to subs with my 20.1.

I use homemade mye stands and spiked feet that help bass, and 600w monoblocks just for the bass panels.

Definitely makes my organs shake !