SME 12A Twin Turntable

[Dogberry]

It isn't on the SME website yet, but you'll find it listed with some UK dealers: a version of the Model 12 with room for two tonearms:

SME Model 12A Twin Turntable

SME Model 12A Twin Turntable now available at Analogue Seduction.

www.analogueseduction.net

It looks like SME have copied what one of their more adventurous dealers did a few years back for the Model 10:

SME Dual arm M10-DP

The new M10-DP dual tonearm mounting plate is a brilliant example of advancing a high-end high fidelity classic to meet evolving audiophile needs. The continued resurgence of demand for vinyl LPs is bringing with it a renewed appreciation of mono recordings. For serious collectors and music...

www.time-step.com

I asked and they said the subframe is different on the 12 and it won't work on my 10s. But they would say that, wouldn't they? All it would take would be a replacement for the mounting plate, A, with a dogleg protruding out from point B, at 120º to the axis of the existing plate, into which a second SME mount is machined.



The annoying thing is that it would take five minutes in their CAD app to change the mounting plate for the Model 12, and then they send that, on demand, to their CNC machine when they want to sell one to a Model 10 owner. Easy money, but they prefer to hope I will buy two Model 12 Twin tables to replace my two Model 10s with their Acoustand pods. That's not going to happen!

 

[Dogberry]

Here's the cheapskate solution. I've been happily using Acoustand pods but I'm aware of their limitations. I spent some time thinking about the tonearm panel and how I might attach it to the subframe, and made a plan. I could see that a 29.4mm hole would fit over the pillar, and that a threaded hole drilled into the subframe would make a solid joint. So..yesterday I was brave, and altered the tonearm panel that Lee Drage made to go with an Acoustand pod. First drilled a 28mm hole centred 55mm from the nearest end of the SME cut out. This I enlarged with a dremel drum sander to 29.4mm and checked it was a tight friction fit over the subframe tower of the Model 10 TT. I made a cut-out in it so it would not touch the motor. Then I drilled a 3/16" hole in the subframe, tapped it, and affixed the panel with a nut and bolt, using a shim under it as I tightened it to make sure it was level (checked using a bubble level). There's a rubber o-ring where the tower passes through the subframe, and if I didn't use a shim the bolt as it tightens down would cause the panel to become canted downwards towards the platter. Replaced the subplatter, tightened it down and remounted the Series IV and London Reference. Adjusted overhang, VTA and VTF. Now enjoying the first record!
The panel drilled and cut-out made:

Mounted to the subframe and bolted on. A good, tight fit:

Ready to play:

The hardest part was getting out the four bolts that hold the subplatter to the subframe—a lot of Loctite on them! One down, and one to go, but I'll have to wait until my hands stop shaking.

Second table was done today:

By being cheap, I have saved a good deal of cash. The dual arm version of the Model 12 sells for £15k, so a pair would be $29.6k CDN after tax. These cost me nearly nothing as I already had the tonearm panels from Acoustand pods, and just had to buy a set of hole saws and a tap and die set (and buying tools is an investment, right?) I’m surprised at how rigid they are: if I move the table by holding the new tonearm panels I can detect no play at all in the joint, which is a very tight friction fit around the subframe pillar and bolted onto the subframe to prevent rotational movement.
Now I'm waiting for a Wally Skater to turn up and I can finally stop and listen to music again! BTW, I do know the 17th century cupboard chest is an unconventional turntable stand, but it weighs 350lb and I can stamp on the floor next to it and a playing record doesn't even notice.