Time to throw Darts

[jimbones]

So here's a chance to analyze a system and determine my systems weakest spot so I can do suitable upgrades. So get ready to throw darts. The only component you wont know are my 2 way speakers which i custom designd/built using 2 SB Acoustics MW16P and a 29R tweeter. (I am an electrical engineer and have quite a few years designing speakers)

GR Research double 12inch H Frame OB Sub with Rythmik Servo Amps
Auralic Vega (Original) DAC
Modwright LS100 Pre
Art Audio Vinyl Reference Phono
VPI Classic 2 table with Dynavector 20X2L Cart
Phoenix power supply for VPI
Intel Nuc (8th Gen) runnung ROON Rock with LPS
Wells Audio Innamorata Amp
Assorted cable Wywires, Transparent, TWL, etc

Thanks in advance

 

[spiritofmusic]

There was me thinking this thread was about you jacking in your Dartzeels for new amps! Lol

 

[PeterA]

Nice thread title. I wouldn’t know where to begin as I’m unfamiliar with most everything on your list. But for others it might help if you describe what it is you don’t like about the sound of your system. It could be the room set up power delivery all sorts of things.

 

[Solypsa]

Have you tried any other carts recently? 20xl is nice but of course there are other good ones to try...

 

[jimbones]

There was me thinking this thread was about you jacking in your Dartzeels for new amps! Lol

Ha ha yea if I only had the funds lol

 

[jimbones]

Nice thread title. I wouldn’t know where to begin as I’m unfamiliar with most everything on your list. But for others it might help if you describe what it is you don’t like about the sound of your system. It could be the room set up power delivery all sorts of things.

OK so I believe that all components should be on a somewhat same performance level plane. For example I would not pair an uber expensive power amp with a modest preamp. I think Ive done a decent job of keeping the components fairly similar performance envelope. I was wondering if anything looked "out of place". The only thing I can say is that I am thinking of changing the Preamp first as I would eventually like to go Balanced. The amp would change later. I am using 20 ft RCA so I get noise pickup. (Note:I just ordered XLR with RCA adapters to try out)

 

[jimbones]

Have you tried any other carts recently? 20xl is nice but of course there are other good ones to try...

I have a Benz Micro Glider Medium output as well. I have heard a Koetsu Black on a friends system and fell in love lol. (not with my friend, the cartridge haaa)

 

[acousticsguru]

Curious to hear if you're happy with your GR Research OB subs and Rythmik plate amp?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.

 

[jimbones]

@acousticsguru: Yes I am. I prefer this to traditional sealed/vented systems. I find that you need more drivers (2 or 3 per side) but you get clearer more defined bass. No overhang due to the servo. My main speakers go down to 50hz and I use the GR Research below that

 

[acousticsguru]

@acousticsguru: Yes I am. I prefer this to traditional sealed/vented systems. I find that you need more drivers (2 or 3 per side) but you get clearer more defined bass. No overhang due to the servo. My main speakers go down to 50hz and I use the GR Research below that

Thanks for your reply! 50Hz would be the exact same crossover point I'd be using. I'm thinking of building a pair of triple servo subs myself, assuming cone surface can't possibly do any harm, but will admit I don't fully understand if OB bass, apart from being fast-settling and articulate, makes itself "felt" same as sealed-box bass. How far from the front wall did you place yours? Don't front wall reflections affect the response in form of a cancellation/null? Also, do you use No Rez, and if so, does it make an audible difference (makes little sense to me at those wavelengths, except if the H frame weren't sturdy enough)? Please excuse the virtual plethora of questions, but I'm really intrigued by the concept, and having designed and built speakers myself, I must admit I'm skeptical.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.

 

[thedudeabides]

Only you know the answer to your question.

 

[Gregm]

OK so I believe that all components should be on a somewhat same performance level plane.(...) I was wondering if anything looked "out of place".

(...) 2 way speakers which i custom designd/built using 2 SB Acoustics MW16P and a 29R tweeter. (I am an electrical engineer and have quite a few years designing speakers)

GR Research double 12inch H Frame OB Sub with Rythmik Servo Amps
Auralic Vega (Original) DAC
Modwright LS100 Pre
Art Audio Vinyl Reference Phono
VPI Classic 2 table with Dynavector 20X2L Cart
Phoenix power supply for VPI
Intel Nuc (8th Gen) runnung ROON Rock with LPS
Wells Audio Innamorata Amp
Assorted cable Wywires, Transparent, TWL, etc

Thanks in advance

While I often find that active preamps fall short of the rest of the system, in your case I would first audition alternatives to the Auralic. I would also consider adding a reclocker-regenerator to the digital front end, mine helped no-end for little outlay (I actually have daisy-chained two!). Then, I would check out alternatives to the Modright, possibly even opting for a good passive pre (TVC?) -- indeed, as you are a diyer, you might consider constructing one yourself!

 

[jimbones]

Thanks for your reply! 50Hz would be the exact same crossover point I'd be using. I'm thinking of building a pair of triple servo subs myself, assuming cone surface can't possibly do any harm, but will admit I don't fully understand if OB bass, apart from being fast-settling and articulate, makes itself "felt" same as sealed-box bass. How far from the front wall did you place yours? Don't front wall reflections affect the response in form of a cancellation/null? Also, do you use No Rez, and if so, does it make an audible difference (makes little sense to me at those wavelengths, except if the H frame weren't sturdy enough)? Please excuse the virtual plethora of questions, but I'm really intrigued by the concept, and having designed and built speakers myself, I must admit I'm skeptical.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.

My room is 13 x 21 and 2 per side is adequate. If you have a bigger room or if you want "impact" go with 3 per side. more is better and I cant see any down side as long as you have space. It is true that OB bass is not "felt" as traditional bass. However once I heard it I cant go back. I'd rather have quality over quantity. My speakers are 5 ft from the front wall, with the subs along the long wall. The wavelengths are very long below 50 hz so I am not too concerned about the distance from the front wall. I use the no rez product that Danny Ritchie suggests in my H Frame. if there is someone in your area that has the OB subs try to demo them.

 

[jimbones]

While I often find that active preamps fall short of the rest of the system, in your case I would first audition alternatives to the Auralic. I would also consider adding a reclocker-regenerator to the digital front end, mine helped no-end for little outlay (I actually have daisy-chained two!). Then, I would check out alternatives to the Modright, possibly even opting for a good passive pre (TVC?) -- indeed, as you are a diyer, you might consider constructing one yourself!

So the reclocker helped, too what degree? And as far as DACs I dont want to go crazy but what can I get for 2K-2500 used?

 

[Gregm]

I daisy-chained two inexpensive reclockers which resulted in significant improvements in clarity. When I purchased my small dac it must have cost around 2.5k euro (I got a “deal“ for dac& two reclockers). Other mid-priced dacs I liked were the benchmark and the okto dac 8, I was also introduced to a Mola Mola which was very expensive for what I was looking for at the time. I chose the Ayazi for the energy, the liveliness and the dynamics.
Please note that I didn’t actually conduct a thorough market research so there are many others out there!

 

[bazelio]

While I often find that active preamps fall short of the rest of the system, in your case I would first audition alternatives to the Auralic. I would also consider adding a reclocker-regenerator to the digital front end, mine helped no-end for little outlay (I actually have daisy-chained two!). Then, I would check out alternatives to the Modright, possibly even opting for a good passive pre (TVC?) -- indeed, as you are a diyer, you might consider constructing one yourself!

+1 to a DIY TVC. You're not going to come close to its transparency at the price. I built mine around the silver Slagleformer. I love it. Picture attached.