Audiophile Fuses

Synergistic had their ‘buy 2 get 1 free” special on fuses last month. The pair of fuses in my amp were from two generations ago (Orange), so I figured why not give Pink a try. For the free fuse, I opted to get one for my DAC, even though it was only from the previous generation (Purple).

I started with the amp. Immediately I heard improved clarity and less grain. After a few weeks, it became magical because of how pure the notes had become.

I swapped in the fuse for my DAC about ten days ago. For a few days I couldn’t even listen to my system because of how unnatural the sound had become. I thought maybe I would have to flip the fuse as some have claimed that having the fuse in the wrong orientation can cause things to get pinched. I figured I’d give it a week before flipping it.

After about a week, I found myself gobsmacked by what was coming forth. The Pink fuse in my DAC became like a force multiplier for the gains I heard from Pink fuses in my amp. Again I was left with the impression that these expensive fuses are actually a steal. Acoustic instruments in particular have taken a big step forward as far as sounding real. This is crazy.
 
I noted with some amusement:

HiFi-Tuning is the only manufacturer in the world that makes fuses by hand!

Besides not being true, it's a good reason not to buy their fuses. The key to making a fuse is consistency and reliability of the manufacturing process, including a very low solder time. This should be in the specification (see Littelfuse, for example).
I suspect that Acme fuses which are essentially a ceramic fuse and on the anti-vibration model, crystal coated, are possibly only minimally altered. Many friends and I prefer the neutral and dependable Acme fuses to SR fuses. Excellent fuses at 11X less than SR pink. The SR colors change every 2 years. They do sound different (when I was using them), I preferred the darker sounding blue to the orange and purple I tried in EAR amp/pre-amps, Shanling transport and Topping/2010 R2R Emotiva DACs. Did not try the white or pink.
 
Every new piece of gear gets a fuse upgrade.If you can afford a decent system and you "listen" to the system as opposed to background listening, then buy a better fuse.You won't go back to stock.
 
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Well i have upgraditis again. I am thinking a Master fuse in my DAC, and Phono stage, and pink fuses in my mono blocks,pre amp and CDT, plus my power conditioner. Be 7 fuses in total. I have Orange fuses in everything right now.

Is this too much all at once?
 
Well i have upgraditis again. I am thinking a Master fuse in my DAC, and Phono stage, and pink fuses in my mono blocks,pre amp and CDT, plus my power conditioner. Be 7 fuses in total. I have Orange fuses in everything right now.

Is this too much all at once?
I recommend a swiss digital fuse box over the Master... plenty of threads on here with happy customers
 
the SDFB is $800 ea here in Canada. OUCH

From a cost and sound standpoint, the SDFB + good quality adapter/cord offers betters at least the mid-level QSA fuses (red, red-black). Against other brand fuses, the advantage is only sonic, with the right sluggo.
 
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Well, there are several pieces of equipment I will not touch. You can call me chicken. My Von Schweikert speakers, my Lampizator Poseidon DAC and my Westminster Labs REI amps.
 
Well, there are several pieces of equipment I will not touch. You can call me chicken. My Von Schweikert speakers, my Lampizator Poseidon DAC and my Westminster Labs REI amps.

While I now use SDFBs w/ sluggos, which of course requires fuse changes, before that I changed fuses a in Lampi TRP and GG, a VAC Master pre, a PS Audio regenerator, and ATC powered floorstanders and JL Audio subs a number of times. In fact, LampiNA recommended upping the factory installed fuse value in the States. One thing not commonly realized is that factory fuse amperage spec values are commonly (but not always) already a few times more than what the circuit actually needs, and having a power conditioner/regenerator or a fused strip in front of components virtually eliminates the chances of damage from too much power, except perhaps in areas known for lightning strikes — perhaps.
 
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All bets are off when it comes to lightning strikes. That's a whole other animal.

Tom
 
Guess it's just me but I heard zero difference with any of these fuses...
None!----
I personally wouldn't try again.. Spending thousands of dollars on equipment and potentially
voiding a warranty----to me the stock fuses do just fine.. I wouldn't spend money on fuses again....
been there and found zero results
 
I wouldn't say that they are a total waste of money. It depends on a system and what you used.....speaking of? What fuse did you use.

Tom
 
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I hear you-----I concur........total waste of money and potentially DANGEROUS

Dangerous, how? That’s really a myth.
 
when many of the manufacturers recommended to me you can use a different value-Ie one said to me we don't have the exact value you need so go up to the next notch------thats DANGEROUS!

First of all, if your gear is typical, the spec fuse amperage value on most or all of it is already well above, 2x or 3x, what the circuit strictly requires. Why? Because given the wide variety of users and situations of use, developers commonly protect themselves against unnecessary returns and warranty claims by creating some slack. Not all developers, but seemingly most. It certainly doesn’t hurt to ask, although I suspect that given how ubiquitous the aftermarket fuse scene has become in the past 10 years, developers who were spec’ing tight have likely adjusted.

Second, it’s true that one aftermarket fuse developer, along with vendors that have to deal with their customers’ returns, do sometimes privately suggest going up a value. The reason is that in not building their fuses to Underwriter Labs standards, i.e., industry standards, Synergistic Research fuses are more prone to blow with gear that has a strong start-up surge (more common with tube gear, I believe). Gear without that surge typically doesn’t need any change. As far as I’ve heard, we’re really only talking here about SR, and sometimes QSA to be safe, given the latter’s high cost (reseller overhead) and the delay in getting replacements from Hong Kong.

But here’s the thing: if there’s really something wrong, the difference in time between a 2A and 3.15A fuse blowing, for example, is minuscule, if nonexistent. That’s why developers feel safe in creating some slack, and why LampiNA feels safe in privately suggesting that North American users replace the factory spec’d 2A fuse with a 3.15A.
 
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People worrying about your fuse being slightly higher rated, realise the manufacturer could have easily chosen say 3.15a vs 2a when they built the product. Or 8A instead of 5A. There is room for discretion here. Its when you are putting a 10a fuse where a 2a should be - thats a problem.
 
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I think this came from Lampizator-"WE ABSOLUTELY DO NOT ALLOW changing the fuses for any larger size than 2A or installing the 'audiophile silver bolts' in place of the fuse." However, Lampizator or the local distributor, authorized dealer should be consulted concerning warranty coverage for a particular fuse in my opinion.

Von Schweikert does not address changing of fuses in it's warranty on its speakers. Same advice, consult with the manufacturer.

Westminster Labs manual does not explicitly address modifications such as installing fuses from another brand. Same advice, consult with the manufacturer.

I'd like to hear what happened to these brand's products when fuses were changed from OEM, positively and negatively, or no difference.

Thank you.
 
clearly we went to different engineering schools-------the slightest delta can be dangerous----
game over

Most manufacturers will fuse their product on the conservative side. So no, the slightest delta is mostly not an issue. I am talking about the real world of product manufacture however, if you want to stay in pure theory that is fine.
 

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