Audiophile Fuses

I think you’ll find the dac a pleasant surprise. I just received back my GG with the 11-P engine upgrade, P for Poseidon. It’s still got a lot of burnin to go, but can tell you that it’s like a new component vs. the standard Engine 11 version (the current Pacific 2 also has the 11-P, which makes it a vast improvement over when the LessLoss comparison was written in 2019). The music just flows, if not dances. I’m also using a QSA Red-Black fuse, which adds a lot to that, along with better tubes, TP adapters and a ZenWave-built ground cable that together take the GG well beyond its factory version, as well as eliminating all but a little of the hum.

To me, it’s reproduction, so with anything from fuses to components I’m looking first for reasonable pitch accuracy and a touch of warmth, everything else being icing.
 
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SeagoatLeo said:
My statement about putting in a substitute wire/metal object instead of a fuse (or circuit breaker) was general as well, not referencing the SDFB.

There was a Youtube review of the LessLoss DAC versus a Lampi Pacific. The overall review was very positive but the Pacific was still preferred. I am waiting for a Poseidon delivery. I heard the Horizon with my speakers (only Lampi I've heard). I was not disappointed by the resolution. Resolution isn't everything (for about 20 years it was a benchmark, recently less resolution and greater "musicality" is also a trend). Maybe I'm just satisfied with great music reproduction and I am not a perfectionist. I trust my golden ear two friends (who are perfectionists) and my own music reproduction preferences.
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All reviews are subjective and I auditioned Echo's End in my system for 30 days before I ordered one. Had it in 3 days shipped from EU to me in Texas. So keep this on track about AF or Highstream will freak. What works for you is all good and I only care about what works for me in my system. Cheers. (No I am not a Lampi fan nor am I a hater)
 
highstream said:
I think you’ll find the dac a pleasant surprise. I just received back my GG with the 11-P engine upgrade, P for Poseidon. It’s still got a lot of burnin to go, but can tell you that it’s like a new component vs. the standard Engine 11 version (the current Pacific 2 also has the 11-P, which makes it a vast improvement over when the LessLoss comparison was written in 2019). The music just flows, if not dances. I’m also using a QSA Red-Black fuse, which adds a lot to that, along with better tubes, TP adapters and a ZenWave-built ground cable that together take the GG well beyond its factory version, as well as eliminating all but a little of the hum.

To me, it’s reproduction, so I’m looking first for reasonable pitch accuracy and a touch of warmth, everything else being iceing.
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This thread is about fuses buddy! ;)
 
Republicoftexas69 said:
This thread is about fuses buddy! ;)
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I appreciated Highstream's reply. This was hopefully my last big digital equipment purchase. I also take most reviews unseriously as I have purchased too many highly praised products that were busts (starting with the Muse Signature 9 CD player at $3,600 in 1990s to the COS Engineering DACs 1v and 2v, certainly the PS Audio Transport that I auditioned). I have a local distributor/dealer who understands (and appreciates) my deep knowledge of acoustical music as a part-time recording/mastering engineer, performer and two composer recording archivist. That's what I do for an avocation. Vocation is in real estate/business.

As to fuses, I am satisfied with the results with the treated ACME. I would blow a fuse if I purchased a QSA 5 x 20mm Black/Red Slow Blow Fuse. at $2,844.00.
 
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SeagoatLeo said:
I appreciated Highstream's reply. This was hopefully my last big digital equipment purchase. I also take most reviews unseriously as I have purchased too many highly praised products that were busts (starting with the Muse Signature 9 CD player at $3,600 in 1990s to the COS Engineering DACs 1v and 2v, certainly the PS Audio Transport that I auditioned). I have a local distributor/dealer who understands (and appreciates) my deep knowledge of acoustical music as a part-time recording/mastering engineer, performer and two composer recording archivist. That's what I do for an avocation. Vocation is in real estate/business.

As to fuses, I am satisfied with the results with the treated ACME.
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My earlier retort was not pointed at you :confused:
 
SeagoatLeo said:
I appreciated Highstream's reply. This was hopefully my last big digital equipment purchase. I also take most reviews unseriously as I have purchased too many highly praised products that were busts (starting with the Muse Signature 9 CD player at $3,600 in 1990s to the COS Engineering DACs 1v and 2v, certainly the PS Audio Transport that I auditioned). I have a local distributor/dealer who understands (and appreciates) my deep knowledge of acoustical music as a part-time recording/mastering engineer, performer and two composer recording archivist. That's what I do for an avocation. Vocation is in real estate/business.

As to fuses, I am satisfied with the results with the treated ACME. I would blow a fuse if I purchased a QSA 5 x 20mm Black/Red Slow Blow Fuse. at $2,844.00.
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I mentioned using the QSA fuse (which I picked up, along with several others at well below half price, during Tweek Geek's inventory liquidation sale in Dec-Jan 2022-23). Yesterday, 72 hours into the upgraded GG, I discovered that I had put it in the spare fuse slot (and maybe had done so since the beginning...). That means my comment was based on those hours with the provided OEM glass fuse (4A Eska*). While YMMV with the Poseiden and your system, letting that fuse burn in first might turn out better than expected. Over the three days, what characterized the sound, in addition to its flow, was great clarity and sense of presence across the spectrum and soundstage, along with an upper midrange hardness that was lessening day by day as the fuse matured. I don't know where it would end up -- I may come back to it to find out -- but it did leave a strong impression. For now I'm burning in the QSA.

Btw, for components such as the Lampi that have a spare fuse slot, if it's not obvious which is which, pulling one and turning on the dac will provide the answer.

*There's no GG manual, but since those for all the other models except the Horizon show 2A in the U.S., I don't know if they didn't have the lower value or something about the 11-P board calls for more. The dac's voltage output, expressed in preamp volume knob setting, appears a lot greater than the E-11's.
 
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highstream said:
I mentioned using the QSA fuse (which I picked up, along with several others at well below half price, during Tweek Geek's inventory liquidation sale in Dec-Jan 2022-23). Yesterday, 72 hours into the upgraded GG, I discovered that I had put it in the spare fuse slot (and maybe had done so since the beginning...). That means my comment was based on those hours with the provided OEM glass fuse (4A Eska*). While YMMV with the Poseiden and your system, letting that fuse burn in first might turn out better than expected. Over the three days, what characterized the sound, in addition to its flow, was great clarity and sense of presence across the spectrum and soundstage, along with an upper midrange hardness that was lessening day by day as the fuse matured. I don't know where it would end up -- I may come back to it to find out -- but it did leave a strong impression. For now I'm burning in the QSA.

Btw, for components such as the Lampi that have a spare fuse slot, if it's not obvious which is which, pulling one and turning on the dac will provide the answer.

*There's no GG manual, but since those for all the other models except the Horizon show 2A in the U.S., the 4A has me wondering if the 11-P board is more demanding. The dac is now definitely putting out more than with the E-11.
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Thank you. My retailer is burning it in at his home for a week prior to me hearing it. He wants it to be perfect sounding so I won't be disappointed (I purchased the Von Schweikert speakers and Westminster Rei amps from him).
 
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I installed an Atco coated ag/cryo'd fuse in my MCH amplifier. I'll play some soundtracks tonight but the one thing I did not like at all was the coating. I had to grind it down to fit into the IEC fuse socket. And even still, chips went inside because it was much thicker/fatter than a stock ceramic fuse. Hopefully it sounds great because the design/implementation is definitely lacking. I have no idea how I'm going to remove it either. It seems embedded now.
 
audiom3 said:
I installed an Atco coated ag/cryo'd fuse in my MCH amplifier. I'll play some soundtracks tonight but the one thing I did not like at all was the coating. I had to grind it down to fit into the IEC fuse socket. And even still, chips went inside because it was much thicker/fatter than a stock ceramic fuse. Hopefully it sounds great because the design/implementation is definitely lacking. I have no idea how I'm going to remove it either. It seems embedded now.
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What is an Atco fuse? If you mean ACME, you should not have used the treated one (although we don't care for the untreated one) if it does not fit into your fuse socket. The coating provides the anti-resonant component. I am sorry you experimented as the coating is stable unless scraped. My friends I are using about two dozen throughout most of our equipment.
 
SeagoatLeo said:
What is an Atco fuse? If you mean ACME, you should not have used the treated one (although we don't care for the untreated one) if it does not fit into your fuse socket. The coating provides the anti-resonant component. I am sorry you experimented as the coating is stable unless scraped. My friends I are using about two dozen throughout most of our equipment.
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Yeah, sorry I meant to type Acme. I didn't know it wouldn't fit until I slid the IEC cannister in place. And at that point, it was too late.
 
Never claimed to be even somewhat mechanically inclined but I definitely screwed the pooch on this one. Fuse is not coming out and the amp stopped working. Too tight for pliers or anything else in the slot. Probably have to send it back to the manufacturer since the fuse tube is glued well to the chassis on the inside. I guess I should have worked slower and listened for the feedback instead of just cramming the fuse tube into the holder. Live and learn.
 
Finally removed it
Guess I'll have to try an SR or AM fuse instead.
On another note, I inserted a Swiss Digital Fuse Box on my Lumin U2 and have achieved positive results.
 
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Talking about breakers and fuses…

I did today, install my new monster breakers and audiophile fuses from the German manufacturer AHP, in my audioroom’s sub-breaker panel. They are huge, compare to a regular automatic breaker you can see in the picture to the outmost right. Inside the three breakers is an actual melt fuse, almost as big as a cola can.. LOL..!! As the big system is shut off and on hifi resting vacation, I will come back with sonic impressions later on. As for now I just enjoy the hot and lovely summer… with the paint brush in one hand, the garden water hose in the other… Enjoy.

/ Jk
IMG_0626.jpegIMG_0627.jpeg
 
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I think some fuses with QBT processing(burn-in treatment), such as hifi turning fuse.., should clearly indicate the direction of the fuse when doing QBT, instead of telling consumers the direction of the test in a very vague way. This is a very irresponsible approach.
 
After trying a couple of fuses that didn't really do anything, I tried a fuse that did make an audible difference - a Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme fuse. I hadn't read much on these fuses online before purchasing one.
I've inserted into my Class D Multi-channel amplifier which serves as an amplifier for movies, shows, concert vids and multi-channel music. After a couple of fuses which proved minimal to no difference, I think I've found a winner. All speakers have improved clarity and, even a larger improvement in imaging. I did not listen to any surround music this weekend but I did watch a lot of movies and shows via my Zidoo media player. Very happy with the upgrade and would definitely consider buying another for a PSU or one of my LAN switches.
 
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audiom3 said:
I tried a fuse that did make an audible difference - a Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme fuse. I hadn't read much on these fuses online before purchasing one.
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Hi-Fi tuning fuses have been around for a long time and have received positive reviews from many quarters and are reasonably priced. The Hi-Fi tuning fuses come in two varieties, line with Cardas copper wire and the other with silver/gold. This is a nice option as it allows system voicing to preference depending on the other components in one's system. After going down the rabbit hole of fuse exploration for years, I'm happy using the HFT silver/gold in my Lampizator Horizon, Taiko Extreme and Soulution 727 preamplifier and Gryphon Mephisto amps.. Having owned the precursor 725 preamp in which I used it successfully, I recently received the 727 preamp with its factory rhodium wire fuse and could not get that out fast enough to replace it with the HFT silver/gold. Keep in mind that HFT fuses are directional so feel free to experiment. The correct direction is usually readily apparent.

fuses.png
 
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marty said:
Hi-Fi tuning fuses have been around for a long time and have received positive reviews from many quarters and are reasonably priced. The Hi-Fi tuning fuses come in two varieties, line with Cardas copper wire and the other with silver/gold. This is a nice option as it allows system voicing to preference depending on the other components in one's system. After going down the rabbit hole of fuse exploration for years, I'm happy using the HFT silver/gold in my Lampizator Horizon, Taiko Extreme and Soulution 727 preamplifier and Gryphon Mephisto amps.. Having owned the precursor 725 preamp in which I used it successfully, I recently received the 727 preamp with its factory rhodium wire fuse and could not get that out fast enough to replace it with the HFT silver/gold. Keep in mind that HFT fuses are directional so feel free to experiment. The correct direction is usually readily apparent.

View attachment 133296
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I have used this exact fuse (copper) in my Jcat Optimo Duo 3 LPS. Never tried them in the Gryphon gear, H, or Extreme. Eventual Olympus. Maybe I'll give them a try if I ever stop buying! BTW the new H with XDMI will be here tomorrow (hopefully the transaction for my current H goes through without a hitch) if it does I have a 2nd H with 4.6 years left on warranty for sale. PM me if interested... Fingers crossed!!
 
Hi @marty yeah I've heard of he company. In fact I currently have 8 HiFi Tuning fuses in my Ayre power amp. But they're the old Classic line and I'm not impressed by them... I just didn't read a lot of forum talk about the Supreme line specifically. But I'm definitely a believer in them now.
 
Got a hand full of certain ceramic fuses from Peter Moor who is owner of Crimson Electronics UK(they make solid state amps & preamps). Cost about €0.50 each. Yes they are directional too.

Don't have a manufacturer name on these but they did improve the sound when I added them to my tube amp and integrated amp.
Cheapest tweek ever for me.
 
A-Line said:
Got a hand full of certain ceramic fuses from Peter Moor who is owner of Crimson Electronics UK(they make solid state amps & preamps). Cost about €0.50 each. Yes they are directional too.

Don't have a manufacturer name on these but they did improve the sound when I added them to my tube amp and integrated amp.
Cheapest tweek ever for me.
Click to expand...

Give them full burn in time and then report back how it’s gone.
 
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