Audiophile Fuses

[highstream]

Fuse was no different from stock one in my Lumin U2. If anything, I prefer the stock fuse from samples that I recorded but I forgot to disable damn auto record level on my Zoom mic. So in amplifying the files, they don't look exactly the same. I don't think it was the difference between the fuses though. It was operator error in the process. Either way, I heard zero difference after spending 3 weeks with the Nano Fuse. Attaching screen shots of the samples in Audition.

I don’t know anything about the entry level AM fuse (vs. further up the line). I assume you gave the Nano fuse at least 250-300 hours under power before comparing. I wouldn’t worry about measurements, but how your system sounds to your ears with each.

 

[audiom3]

I don’t know anything about the entry level AM fuse (vs. further up the line). I assume you gave the Nano fuse at least 250-300 hours under power before comparing. I wouldn’t worry about measurements, but how your system sounds to your ears with each.

Well, with only three weeks to evaluate (at least a week of shipping time), it would be impossible to put that many hours on the fuse, as thats 12+ hours a day, 7 days a week. I did leave the system running several nights to ensure I put over 100 hours on the fuse though.

But I take back what I posted earlier. There is a difference in sound between the stock and Nano fuse. The stock glass fuse sounds significantly better. I was listening at lower volume earlier today when I compred and did the recording. Now with the system cranked up to my comfort level, it's a lot more open and 'live' sounding than it had been the past three weeks. It seems the Nano fuse sort of closed in the sound. Moving forward, I'll try some different brands of fuses.

 

[highstream]

Well, with only three weeks to evaluate (at least a week of shipping time), it would be impossible to put that many hours on the fuse, as thats 12+ hours a day, 7 days a week. I did leave the system running several nights to ensure I put over 100 hours on the fuse though.

But I take back what I posted earlier. There is a difference in sound between the stock and Nano fuse. The stock glass fuse sounds significantly better. I was listening at lower volume earlier today when I compred and did the recording. Now with the system cranked up to my comfort level, it's a lot more open and 'live' sounding than it had been the past three weeks. It seems the Nano fuse sort of closed in the sound. Moving forward, I'll try some different brands of fuses.

For inlet fuses (and power cords) simply power to the component is sufficient, assuming the component’s power is on (trickle current); playing music is not necessary. See my PM for another check that might reverse the closed in sound.

 

[SeagoatLeo]

Well, with only three weeks to evaluate (at least a week of shipping time), it would be impossible to put that many hours on the fuse, as thats 12+ hours a day, 7 days a week. I did leave the system running several nights to ensure I put over 100 hours on the fuse though.

But I take back what I posted earlier. There is a difference in sound between the stock and Nano fuse. The stock glass fuse sounds significantly better. I was listening at lower volume earlier today when I compred and did the recording. Now with the system cranked up to my comfort level, it's a lot more open and 'live' sounding than it had been the past three weeks. It seems the Nano fuse sort of closed in the sound. Moving forward, I'll try some different brands of fuses.

I wouldn't be surprised. I've used or tested five different levels of SR fuses. All sound different. My friends and I all switched to now 11X less expensive (Pink SR fuses) the treated Acme fuses at $22 and $24 each. Maybe they are bettered by other fuses but these are consistently superior to stock fuses and consistent in how they sound in all types of equipment. I've previously stated I am NOT going to attempt changing the fuse where the manufacturer tells me not to (Lampizator DACs and Von Schweikert Foundation sub amps).

 

[highstream]

@SeagoatLeo It’s no secret that SR fuses — e.g., Black, Blue, Orange, Purple — have sounded different. SR not only improved the design sonically with each one, at least in their view, but also changed the frequency balance with each. This was openly discussed by users, including myself, who had different opinions about SR’s choices (I couldn’t stand the Blue). So what’s your point?

I don't know about Van Schweikert, but as for Lampi your claim that they says not to use an aftermarket fuse is simply false. See the screenshot below from the TRP manual. The Pacific, Poseiden and Horizon manuals have the exact same paragraph.*




* N.B. The fuse section for the TRP, Pacific and Poseiden say 2A for the U.S. (Horizon is 3.15A). However, when I got the TRP LampiNA suggested 3.15A, based on experience. Note that the manuals also say that the fuses are "overrated by a factor of 3" (Horizon is 2). I find this is common, although not universal, among high end product developers. Given the variety of users and user situations, overrating saves developers from many unnecessary complaints and warranty claims.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

It’s no secret that SR fuses — e.g., Black, Orange, Purple — have sounded different. SR not only improved the design sonically with each one, at least in their view, but also changed the frequency spectrum curve with each. This was openly discussed by users, including myself, who had different opinions about SR’s choices (I couldn’t stand the Orange). So what’s your point?

As for Lampi, as a TRP and now GG owner since 2019, I’ve never read or been told anything against using aftermarket fuses, by Poland or LampiNA. Please point to anything stated about that publicly or in their manuals. In fact, in sending each in for upgrade, including in the past month for the GG, I’ve included a note letting them know that I’d been using an aftermarket fuse, which I’d pulled, and thus there wasn’t one installed. Not a word in subsequent emails or included with the return shipment. Just a stock fuse installed, as one would expect.

Not in my systems, made zero difference. However the Swiss Digital Fuse Box did and I see that others are developing there own versions (Akiko audio I do believe).

 

[highstream]

Not in my systems, made zero difference. However the Swiss Digital Fuse Box did and I see that others are developing there own versions (Akiko audio I do believe).

You've made your preferences known. Now at my desktop PC where I can check manuals, I've updated my reply to SeagoatLeo. Looking at your signature, you don't seem to have a Lampi, but while the Fuse Box is meant to be protective, and presumably repeated failures would mean that there's something wrong with the component, I don't know how Lampi (or other developers) would see the Sluggo approach relative to its "no bolts" clause. I can't find a SDFB manual, but here's what Vera-Fi's site says, vs. what's in Lampi's manuals:

(SDFB) "When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused."

Lampi fuse page:

 

[SeagoatLeo]

@SeagoatLeo It’s no secret that SR fuses — e.g., Black, Orange, Purple — have sounded different. SR not only improved the design sonically with each one, at least in their view, but also changed the frequency balance with each. This was openly discussed by users, including myself, who had different opinions about SR’s choices (I couldn’t stand the Orange). So what’s your point?

I don't know about Van Schweikert, but as for Lampi your claim that they says not to use an aftermarket fuse is simply false. See the screenshot below from the TRP manual. The Pacific, Poseiden and Horizon manuals have the exact same paragraph.*


View attachment 131426

* N.B. The fuse section for the TRP, Pacific and Poseiden say 2A for the U.S. (Horizon is 3.15A). However, when I got the TRP LampiNA suggested 3.15A, based on experience. Note that the manuals also say that the fuses are "overrated by a factor of 3" (Horizon is 2). I find this is common, although not universal, among high end product developers. Given the variety of users and user situations, overrating saves developers from many unnecessary complaints and warranty claims.

"Looking at your signature, you don't seem to have a Lampi." No I don't. I paid for a Poseidon two months ago and it will be delivered by my dealer in three weeks or sooner. He is breaking it in for me. I just purchased and installed last week Westminster Lab Rei monoblock amps (so tubelike, dynamic and colorful yet lacking in coloration) and a month ago the Jay's Audio CDt3 Mk3 (wow-spectacular).

I happen to have preferred the blue fuse which sounded smoother than the black but with a softer or rolled off highs. The orange was discarded after it broke in on both the EAR 890 and 864. The purple initially sounded better but burned in sounded fuller in the bass and too bright/thin on the highs. Acme cured the search for nearly all my friends and myself. To each his/her own.

As to the Lampizators, what is an "audiophile silver bolt" then called a "DEAD BOLT?" I did a search and can't find either. Maybe a Polish or East European fuse? Or is it a warning about audiophile fuses after stating to go ahead and try any but be careful? My friend just said it could mean removing the fuse and installing a solid silver wire? Wow, that would be dangerous and void a warranty.
Lucasz also says that to hear music best, have a wood floor board at your seat and put one's bare feet on it so one can feel the music better, in the manual. No

 

[Republicoftexas69]

You've made your preferences known. Now at my desktop PC where I can check manuals, I've updated my reply to SeagoatLeo. Looking at your signature, you don't seem to have a Lampi, but while the Fuse Box is meant to be protective, and presumably repeated failures would mean that there's something wrong with the component, I don't know how Lampi (or other developers) would see the Sluggo approach relative to its "no bolts" clause. I can't find a SDFB manual, but here's what Vera-Fi's site says, vs. what's in Lampi's manuals:

(SDFB) "When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused."

Lampi fuse page:
View attachment 131429

You have made your preferences known. No my dac is a LessLoss Echo's End and has no fuses from LessLoss: The SDFB is installed on all my amplifiers, pre, phono pre, Innuos Zenith 3 and X200.

LessLoss Echo's End R-2R DAC - Unmatched Audio Resolution & Purity

Discover the pinnacle of digital to analog conversion with the LessLoss Echo's End discrete precision resistor R-2R DAC. Designed for audiophiles, it delivers unparalleled sound clarity, depth, and naturalness, transforming your digital audio files into a breathtaking listening experience.

www.lessloss.com

 

[highstream]

I happen to have preferred the blue fuse which sounded smoother than the black but with a softer or rolled off highs. The orange was discarded after it broke in on both the EAR 890 and 864. The purple initially sounded better but burned in sounded fuller in the bass and too bright/thin on the highs. Acme cured the search for nearly all my friends and myself. To each his/her own.

As to the Lampizators, what is an "audiophile silver bolt" then called a "DEAD BOLT?" I did a search and can't find either. Maybe a Polish or East European fuse? Or is it a warning about audiophile fuses after stating to go ahead and try any but be careful?
Lucasz also says that to hear music best, have a wood floor board at your seat and put one's bare feet on it so one can feel the music better, in the manual. No

Interesting. I meant the SR Blue as the one that made me want to throw the system out the window. To me, it was cool and detailed and seemingly fast in the way that an upper midrange bump offers. The Black, Orange and Purple have a sense of warmth to one degree or another.

I take “bolt” to mean any kind of a jumper in place of the fuse, in particular some kind of solid metal piece inserted in the holder. Obviously, it sacrifices protection. I come across proponents of this kind of DIY alternative from time to time.

 

[SeagoatLeo]

Interesting. I meant the SR Blue as the one that made me want to throw the system out the window. To me, it was cool and detailed and seemingly fast in the way that an upper midrange bump offers. The Black, Orange and Purple have a sense of warmth to one degree or another.

I take “bolt” to mean any kind of a jumper in place of the fuse, in particular some kind of solid metal piece inserted in the holder. Obviously, it sacrifices protection. I come across proponents of this kind of DIY alternative from time to time.

Thanks, my friends and I are selling our SR fuses (I kept all my original SR boxes). So, you had nearly opposite results with your equipment to SR fuses. That indicates unpredictability using SR fuses whereas the treated Acme fuses work in all our various equipment (best friends have Luxman CL 35 mk3, EAR 864, Roger Mojeski RM-9, Audio Research Classic 60, various CD DACs, CD players, etc.).

Wow, placing a jumper in place of a fuse is like putting a penny or other metal in old fuse boxes-extremely dangerous.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

Thanks, my friends and I are selling our SR fuses (I kept all my original SR boxes). So, you had nearly opposite results with your equipment to SR fuses. That indicates unpredictability using SR fuses whereas the treated Acme fuses work in all our various equipment (best friends have Luxman CL 35 mk3, EAR 864, Roger Mojeski RM-9, Audio Research Classic 60, various CD DACs, CD players, etc.).

Wow, placing a jumper in place of a fuse is like putting a penny or other metal in old fuse boxes-extremely dangerous.

If you are referencing the SDFB then that is an inaccurate statement. Wow, placing a jumper in place of a fuse is like putting a penny or other metal in old fuse boxes-extremely dangerous.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

You've made your preferences known. Now at my desktop PC where I can check manuals, I've updated my reply to SeagoatLeo. Looking at your signature, you don't seem to have a Lampi, but while the Fuse Box is meant to be protective, and presumably repeated failures would mean that there's something wrong with the component, I don't know how Lampi (or other developers) would see the Sluggo approach relative to its "no bolts" clause. I can't find a SDFB manual, but here's what Vera-Fi's site says, vs. what's in Lampi's manuals:

(SDFB) "When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused."

Lampi fuse page:
View attachment 131429

You've made your preferences known. Now at my desktop PC where I can check manuals, I've updated my reply to SeagoatLeo. Looking at your signature, you don't seem to have a Lampi, but while the Fuse Box is meant to be protective, and presumably repeated failures would mean that there's something wrong with the component, I don't know how Lampi (or other developers) would see the Sluggo approach relative to its "no bolts" clause. I can't find a SDFB manual, but here's what Vera-Fi's site says, vs. what's in Lampi's manuals:

(SDFB) "When the set parameters are exceeded (too much current), a relay is switched to the closed position and charge is halted from flowing. Being non-sacrificial, you don’t need to buy a new one, you just unplug it from the outlet for about 30 seconds and it will reset the state. Then it can be plugged back in and reused."

Lampi fuse page:
View attachment 131429

Product Manuals

Welcome to our personal archive of manuals and documentation for our products. Should you ever misplace your manual, are looking for an updated version, or simply want a more in depth look at a product, find them here. Swiss Digital Fuse Box Thank You Instructions Page 1 Instructions Page 2...

verafiaudiollc.com

 

[highstream]

If you are referencing the SDFB then that is an inaccurate statement. Wow, placing a jumper in place of a fuse is like putting a penny or other metal in old fuse boxes-extremely dangerous.

I was not referring to the SDFB, which goes about things differently. The question I raised in a previous post is how developers will respond, or have responded, to users pulling their products’ fuses in the context of using of the SDFB. I don’t know, but suspect not all will be happy re their warranties. After all, it’s more than a minimal or cosmetic a modification of an essential element of a component’s operation. Please don’t take that as an opinion about the effectiveness or quality of the SDFB, with which I have no experience, or about Mark of Vera-Fi, who I’ve found to be an honest operator with integrity.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

I was not referring to the SDFB, which goes about things differently. The question I raised in a previous post is how developers will respond, or have responded, to users pulling their products’ fuses in the context of using of the SDFB. I don’t know, but suspect not all will be happy re their warranties. After all, it’s more than a minimal or cosmetic a modification of an essential element of a component’s operation. Please don’t take that as an opinion about the effectiveness or quality of the SDFB, with which I have no experience, or about Mark of Vera-Fi, who I’ve found to be an honest operator with integrity.

No not at all, also using a non OE fuse would fall into that classification as it is not UL for those of us in the States and would void said warranty.

 

[highstream]

No not at all, also using a non OE fuse would fall into that classification as it is not UL for those of us in the States and would void said warranty.

The two are not comparable. Plus, see Lampi manual.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

The two are not comparable. Plus, see Lampi manual.

I was referring to any device not your LAMPI. I am more an analog guy and did demo a Lampi DAC and did not find it was as resolving as my LessLoss.

 

[highstream]

I was referring to any device not your LAMPI. I am more an analog guy and did demo a Lampi DAC and did not find it was as resolving as my LessLoss.

You’ve made it clear that fuses didn’t work for you, but another approach, the SDFB does. I believe it has its own thread (or one can be started). This one is about audiophile fuses. Time to move on.

 

[Republicoftexas69]

You’ve made it clear that fuses didn’t work for you, but another approach, the SDFB does. I believe it has its own thread (or one can be started). This one is about audiophile fuses. Time to move on.

Sure time to move on....and yes it has it's own thread and I have posted there also. Cheers.

 

[SeagoatLeo]

Sure time to move on....and yes it has it's own thread and I have posted there also. Cheers.

My statement about putting in a substitute wire/metal object instead of a fuse (or circuit breaker) was general as well, not referencing the SDFB.

There was a Youtube review of the LessLoss DAC versus a Lampi Pacific. The overall review was very positive but the Pacific was still preferred. I am waiting for a Poseidon delivery. I heard the Horizon with my speakers (only Lampi I've heard). I was not disappointed by the resolution. Resolution isn't everything (for about 20 years it was a benchmark, recently less resolution and greater "musicality" is also a trend). Maybe I'm just satisfied with great music reproduction and I am not a perfectionist. I trust my golden ear two friends (who are perfectionists) and my own music reproduction preferences.