Battery Power

At some time I owned a PSAudio P10 regenerator - the output distortion was always less than 0.5%. The new PSAudio P20 also lists THD < 0.5%, output impedance of < 5 milliohm, 85% efficiency, maximum continuous load 2000 VA.

Probably it could be powered by lithium batteries.
Regenerator are different. They are impacted by the power from the wall and the power cord.
 
Surely. But the PSAudio use a linear power supply to create DC and re-generate the mains from this DC. In principle they could be operated by batteries.
Most anything can be modified. And it may turn out better.
 
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I envy people having 110Vac mains. I could easily built a power regenerator coupling two high power class D amplifiers driven in antiphase. But 230Vac needs a much higher voltage swing. Some of my equipment can be easily we-wired to 110Vac, but it seems a crazy solution.

See: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/icep...Qy7CuLrb3pKJsD9RVulsU9LV5kLjFYccaAs1bEALw_wcB
I would like to know how to build up amps with parts. I still want to make a swarm one day. I need 4 robust amps. On a retired farmers budget.
 
Yea, I changed the subject.
How do you use those amps as a filter?
 
Yea, I changed the subject.
How do you use those amps as a filter?

I have tried it using a PC software generator coupled to a USB sound box, similar to one I am showing in other posts in this thread. It could drive the amplifiers directly, but in order to avoid ground loops I inserted a Jensen insulating transformer. The nice thing is that we can generate harmonics and create our own distortions. SpectraPLUS-SC - IMO a very versatile audio packages for audio analysis. The photos I have shown are however measured with a free package that can also be used for this purpose - Soundcard Scope . The site is now down, we can download it from https://scope.software.informer.com/download/#downloading - at your own risk, surely!
 
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Wasn't it you who got rid of all your filters and grounding devices and went back to straight to the wall?
 
Wasn't it you who got rid of all your filters and grounding devices and went back to straight to the wall?

In some sense - currently I use a Nordost QB8 and either Nordost power cables, or an Hubbell hospital grade power strip with Ching Cheng power cables or a Furutech home built power strip. All straight from the wall.

I use the Nordost Qkore6 grounding system - but as I said elsewhere when comparing equipment I take it out of the system. I want to carry comparisons without the addition of selected noise ...
 
Talking about hot rotting equipment. If someone were to take a Torus RM20 and direct wire out from the transformer taps to a nice power strip, that would be a nice setup. You could place the core to the side and use a 10 foot cable to connect. Seriously, #10 solid thhn, hand twist the hot and Neutral. Sleve those and the 10 ground into a tech flex sleeve. That would work fine for a cable.
You know what makes for a good, reversible connection in a tight box like a home made power strip. Get a copper ground bar. No tin. Use a metal saw and cut off 1 terminal hole. Overcut to ensure you have the whole terminal. Clean the edges with a file. All smooth. Deox the whole thing. Use that to clamp a single 10 to the lead in the power strip. You could also cut off 4 or so terminals. Now you have 1 hole for power in and 3 to go to duplex. Your basically making a drilled and tapped bus bar. Use teflon plumbers tape. Then a wrap of vinyl tape.
 
Talking about hot rotting equipment. If someone were to take a Torus RM20 and direct wire out from the transformer taps to a nice power strip, that would be a nice setup. You could place the core to the side and use a 10 foot cable to connect. Seriously, #10 solid thhn, hand twist the hot and Neutral. Sleve those and the 10 ground into a tech flex sleeve. That would work fine for a cable.
You know what makes for a good, reversible connection in a tight box like a home made power strip. Get a copper ground bar. No tin. Use a metal saw and cut off 1 terminal hole. Overcut to ensure you have the whole terminal. Clean the edges with a file. All smooth. Deox the whole thing. Use that to clamp a single 10 to the lead in the power strip. You could also cut off 4 or so terminals. Now you have 1 hole for power in and 3 to go to duplex. Your basically making a drilled and tapped bus bar. Use teflon plumbers tape. Then a wrap of vinyl tape.
What's the advantage to just using the RM20's outlets?
 
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What's the advantage to just using the RM20's outlets?
Outside post 193, I see advantages to modifying a rack mount transformer. I'm basically turning it into a wallmount installation.

In a remote mount, You can use better duplex.

I also see benefits in moving the noise from the core away from gear. I had to move one away from a 45 SET to a horn at one home. Why not get the core 4 to 6 feet from the rack. Bring a quality power strip behind the rach that is tapped off the transformer.

I'm all talk so to speak. I do have a nice power strip behind my rack and my Torus off to the side. But I did like most everyone and plugged into an outlet.
I would not fault anyone swapping out duplex in the unit. Thats doable. Would take a skilled hand. But can be done.
 

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