How to Isolate my REL Gibraltar G!s

sbo6

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ASC tube traps mentioned above work well. I built DIY versions for a fraction new and you can customize the height and size. Net is - get them off the floor 12+" and isolate via aforementioned products and the bass will no longer traverse the structure of your room and you'll have tighter better bass.
 
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dbeau

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ASC tube traps mentioned above work well. I built DIY versions for a fraction new and you can customize the height and size. Net is - get them off the floor 12+" and isolate via aforementioned products and the bass will no longer traverse the structure of your room and you'll have tighter better bass.
Would you post pic(s), a bit about construction and what Isolation products used under the stand (or on it beneath the sub)?
I am interested in doing similar with my quite heavy REL 25s. Thx
 
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thedudeabides

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I ha
I've wondered about this too, especially re raising them up at least a foot to offset room nodes but John Hunter/REL
objects to raising or adding anything under REL subs - see attached:

Have a REL sub on a sub dude. I understand his point but those with structural floor issue that vibrate with the subwoofer and rattle the kitchen cabinents, it is very impractical. Seems like the best solution would be to install isolation feet matching the height of the supplied footers. And REL should offer this as an upgrade option.
 
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musicfirst1

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I know John's thoughts on subwoofer isolation, and they make sense, but the largest SubDudes work very well and can prove indispensable in situations where structural vibrations cannot be otherwise tamed; and they only raise the sub 1.75" above its design height.
 

ICUToo

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FWIW, I just put two IsoAcoustics 155s under each of my homemade subs (?35kg each, roughly?).
The improvement was startling and way more than worthwhile. I haven't compared other subwoofer isolation devices so I can't really compare, but the bass tightness and lack of room interaction makes the isolation a must-have.
I needed to turns the subs up a tiny notch.
I never knew I needed it before:)
 
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musicfirst1

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Our experience matches ICUToo's. Our REL Gibraltars placed on the Auralic SubDudes need about 2db more gain in our room.

Another option to try is to spike the subs. We feel proper spiking is the best solution sonically providing room coupling is not too severe. Spiking does provide significant structural decoupling and also provides better bass articulation and tonality than the SubDudes, but the SubDudes simply can't be beat for easily and dramatically decoupling the subs from the room.

There is however a slight penalty in articulation and tonality with the use of SubDudes. Not so with spiking.

We have installed spikes and discs on our beautiful 3/4" hardwood floors in our showroom on both our Gibraltars.

If you have hardwood:

Solen here in Canada sells VERY nice sets of four with self tapping inserts for less than 50 dollars a set of 4.


Simply drill four 5/16" pilot holes ~1/2 deep into the base of your sub, install the inserts so they're flush with the bottom of the sub thread the spikes and your done.

If you have light carpet, commercial carpet, or carpet tiles:

We reccommend the following set:


Installation method is the same as for the hardwood set.

For medium to deep carpet we reccommend:


GOOD LUCK! And remember, the best thing you can spend on your system is time.

Kerry
 
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Cellcbern

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Our experience matches ICUToo's. Our REL Gibraltars placed on the Isoacostic SubDudes need about 2db more gain in our room.

Another option to try is to spike the subs. We feel proper spiking is the best solution sonically providing room coupling is not too severe. Spiking does provide significant structural decoupling and also provides better bass articulation and tonality than the SubDudes, but the SubDudes simply can't be beat for easily and dramatically decoupling the subs from the room.

There is however a slight penalty in articulation and tonality with the use of SubDudes. Not so with spiking.

We have installed spikes and discs on our beautiful 3/4" hardwood floors in our showroom on both our Gibraltars.

If you have hardwood:

Solen here in Canada sells VERY nice sets of four with self tapping inserts for less than 50 dollars a set of 4.


Simply drill four 5/16" pilot holes ~1/2 deep into the base of your sub, install the inserts so they're flush with the bottom of the sub thread the spikes and your done.

If you have light carpet, commercial carpet, or carpet tiles:

We reccommend the following set:


Installation method is the same as for the hardwood set.

For medium to deep carpet we reccommend:


GOOD LUCK! And remember, the best thing you can spend on your system is time.

Kerry
The 6Moons review of the Carbide footers, which explores their use for subwoofer isolation, is worth reading.
 
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dbeau

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Apr 20, 2018
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Our experience matches ICUToo's. Our REL Gibraltars placed on the Isoacostic SubDudes need about 2db more gain in our room.
@musicfirst1,
Thanks for sharing. I have web searched Isoacoustic and Subdudes, which seem to be an Auralex product instead.
My REL subs are the 25s which have a two large wood footers across their length (~4"x26") and so I worry about stability with spikes and think that 6 Isoacoustic footers w/b needed for each sub (168#) maybe under those wood slabs on each end and in middle (?) ~ $480 each sub (not unreasonable). AVRoomservice EVPs w/b similar in cost and also about 1 1/4" in height.
Can you provide in insight/thoughts/advice which might help me in which to implement?
Thanks,
 

musicfirst1

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@musicfirst1,
Thanks for sharing. I have web searched Isoacoustic and Subdudes, which seem to be an Auralex product instead.
My REL subs are the 25s which have a two large wood footers across their length (~4"x26") and so I worry about stability with spikes and think that 6 Isoacoustic footers w/b needed for each sub (168#) maybe under those wood slabs on each end and in middle (?) ~ $480 each sub (not unreasonable). AVRoomservice EVPs w/b similar in cost and also about 1 1/4" in height.
Can you provide in insight/thoughts/advice which might help me in which to implement?
Thanks,
I don't think, even north of 150# the REL 25s need any more than four spikes, provided you drill and tap threaded spikes in the wooden footers. The REL Gibraltars weigh more than 100lbs and I mass load them with over 100lbs of steel bars. That makes well over 200lbs on 4 brass spikes and disks on my hardwood floors. And even if they are going through carpet into sub floor, I would personally not do 6.
 
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dbeau

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2018
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OKC,USA
I don't think, even north of 150# the REL 25s need any more than four spikes, provided you drill and tap threaded spikes in the wooden footers. The REL Gibraltars weigh more than 100lbs and I mass load them with over 100lbs of steel bars. That makes well over 200lbs on 4 brass spikes and disks on my hardwood floors. And even if they are going through carpet into sub floor, I would personally not do 6.
Currently I believe isolation should be better without spiking. I am looking at EVPs vs. Carbide Base (Tx).
Has anyone have any experience with Carbide Base footers yet - they are new but will be in Axpona soon. Thx
 
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