How to Solder: An Illustrated DIY Guide to Making Your Own Cables
- Thread starter Wayne A. Pflughaupt
- Start date
What a fabulous set of postings Wayne. My sincere congratulations. When I was younger, I made all my own cables. If I had your notes to guide me, I would have saved some valuable time learning the do's and don'ts. The problem, as I see it, is that the audience that your notes would almost certainly benefit, namely, the do-it-yourselfers, are fading fast as it was the older generation of audiophiles who grew up in the days of high end audio when cost saving would really prompt us to do things such as make our own cables to go up against the best of what was out there. Unfortunately, the only thing the younger generation of DIY's would now consider, is learning how to make pressing the buttons on their iPods easier. Sadly, time has mostly passed by the audiophile generation that would have most benefited from the advice you gave. However, I hope your notes do indeed provide useful guidance for some audiophiles out there, regardless of age.
Maybe all is not lost. I originally posted it at the Home Theater Shack, and it’s had over 240,000 views in seven years.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
In audio electronics, through-hole still rules due to the nature of many power components that don't come in surface mount. Learning to solder is a useful skill regardless.
Wonderful article! it must have taken a long time.
Two quick thought:
1] Normal everyday RCA connectors (25 Ohmish) should be good up to 100 MHz or more.
2] With connectors that have shield setscrews like the Dayton Super RCA. Don't solder-tin the shield under the setscrew. What will happen is the solder will cold flow and the screw will loosen.
Two quick thought:
1] Normal everyday RCA connectors (25 Ohmish) should be good up to 100 MHz or more.
2] With connectors that have shield setscrews like the Dayton Super RCA. Don't solder-tin the shield under the setscrew. What will happen is the solder will cold flow and the screw will loosen.
Just went through this excellent guide on making audio cables.
Soldering is technique and an art - each artisan has its way of doing it. I learned how to solder from an old technician who used to build cables, electronics and wire chambers at CERN in the 70's.
He did it in a different way - I still keep his five basic rules: 1. Solder adhesion should give electrical conductibility, not mechanical support, the objects should be self supported without solder. 2. Extreme cleanness and tidiness of the two objects being soldered and the soldering tip. 3. Absolute mechanical stability during the soldering time and cooling - he used two mini-vices to keep the wire and plug in place . 4. The soldering iron should contact the three objects - wire, plug and solder - simultaneously for the soldering time. Pre-tinning was not allowed and we had to carry the soldering in one time, if re-soldering was needed we put some new flux! 5. High quality solder with a good flux - solder should flow almost like water, wetting the elements perfectly and stay bright and nice looking!
For a good soldering the iron should have power enough - 50W minimum with fast thermostatic control - you need a constant temperature with a good capacity of supplying heat. I got an Weller - curiously most time we see articles on visits to cable manufacturers we see the Weller's on the benches!
My worst experience - trying soldering Cello cables Litz wire without the proper tools. Even the thick outer braid is made with enameled wire!
Soldering is technique and an art - each artisan has its way of doing it. I learned how to solder from an old technician who used to build cables, electronics and wire chambers at CERN in the 70's.
He did it in a different way - I still keep his five basic rules: 1. Solder adhesion should give electrical conductibility, not mechanical support, the objects should be self supported without solder. 2. Extreme cleanness and tidiness of the two objects being soldered and the soldering tip. 3. Absolute mechanical stability during the soldering time and cooling - he used two mini-vices to keep the wire and plug in place . 4. The soldering iron should contact the three objects - wire, plug and solder - simultaneously for the soldering time. Pre-tinning was not allowed and we had to carry the soldering in one time, if re-soldering was needed we put some new flux! 5. High quality solder with a good flux - solder should flow almost like water, wetting the elements perfectly and stay bright and nice looking!
For a good soldering the iron should have power enough - 50W minimum with fast thermostatic control - you need a constant temperature with a good capacity of supplying heat. I got an Weller - curiously most time we see articles on visits to cable manufacturers we see the Weller's on the benches!
My worst experience - trying soldering Cello cables Litz wire without the proper tools. Even the thick outer braid is made with enameled wire!
For the rare occasions that I do any board work, I have a small 10-watt iron with a small, thin tip. Weller of course.Wayne, what solder iron tip size and shape do your recommend for a plate resistor when an output tube arcs? IE: CAT, ARC ... amps
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
On soldering irons/stations, Weller's time has come and gone. The new "standard" among hobbyists is the Japanese brand, Hakko with this model (FX-888D) being most popular now:
It is a joy to use despite its funny looks. My equiv. Weller has already failed with rusted PC board and bad main IC. They really cheapened the brand in later years.
It is a joy to use despite its funny looks. My equiv. Weller has already failed with rusted PC board and bad main IC. They really cheapened the brand in later years.
and if you're doing your soldering in anything but a VERY well ventilated environment, or outdoors, especially if using solder containing lead, one should use a fume extractor, like this one from Hakko -
I taught a lab course to Seniors majoring in EE at Brooklyn Polytechnic (now part of NYU) a few years ago, and in their windowless, poorly ventilated lab spaces, not a single fume extractor was to be found....
I taught a lab course to Seniors majoring in EE at Brooklyn Polytechnic (now part of NYU) a few years ago, and in their windowless, poorly ventilated lab spaces, not a single fume extractor was to be found....
After reading your tutorial, I ordered ALL my welding supplies from Amazon. I bought a Weller WES51 and a set of Weller tips.
For the rare occasions that I do any board work, I have a small 10-watt iron with a small, thin tip. Weller of course.
Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
What temperature do you recommend for board work?
On soldering irons/stations, Weller's time has come and gone. The new "standard" among hobbyists is the Japanese brand, Hakko with this model (FX-888D) being most popular now:
It is a joy to use despite its funny looks. My equiv. Weller has already failed with rusted PC board and bad main IC. They really cheapened the brand in later years.
I've been using one of these, Amir:
I am jealous
. The 951 is nicer in that the tip has the heating element in it so every time you replace the tip, you get a new heating element. The down side is more expensive tips.Similar threads
