Was fast forwarding the tape. Unplugged the unit, removed covers to look for obvious charred components. Could not see any. Plugged unit back in, plays, rewinds, FF and no smoke. Any idea's ?
This is my recent A810 aquisition...not the one serviced by Ki.
I was thinking of driving down to have these guys service, calibrate and align my studer decks. Anyone familar with them ?
Highly likely to be an electrolytic capacitor, the things that look like large batteries, giving up. The soft guts of the device would have overheated, and been expelled through a safety vent in the part. There may be another capacitor, in parallel, working for two now, which is why it's still working. Obviously, someone who knows electronics needs to check it out ...
Highly likely to be an electrolytic capacitor, the things that look like large batteries, giving up. The soft guts of the device would have overheated, and been expelled through a safety vent in the part. There may be another capacitor, in parallel, working for two now, which is why it's still working. Obviously, someone who knows electronics needs to check it out ...
So that pop sound I heard immediately followed by smoke on the water was a capacitor POP ? Looks like I will talk to JRF to see if they can debug and fix it. Bummer. Just received the machine yesterday.
Is John the guy I want to speak with at JRF ? Will he replace bad or soon to be bad caps in critical area's/cards ? By the smell of things, I thinks the pop came from the power supply area where the plug is for the unit. I can't see anything obvious though.
Is John the guy I want to speak with at JRF ? Will he replace bad or soon to be bad caps in critical area's/cards ? By the smell of things, I thinks the pop came from the power supply area where the plug is for the unit. I can't see anything obvious though.
Is John the guy I want to speak with at JRF ? Will he replace bad or soon to be bad caps in critical area's/cards ? By the smell of things, I thinks the pop came from the power supply area where the plug is for the unit. I can't see anything obvious though.
Fred Thal who is in Grass Valley,Ca.......I'm sure there are many qualified Studer techs in the NJ and NY area,ask John French. It's always good to have a connection and a tech.
Fred Thal who is in Grass Valley,Ca.......I'm sure there are many qualified Studer techs in the NJ and NY area,ask John French. It's always good to have a connection and a tech.
Was fast forwarding the tape. Unplugged the unit, removed covers to look for obvious charred components. Could not see any. Plugged unit back in, plays, rewinds, FF and no smoke. Any idea's ?
This is my recent A810 aquisition...not the one serviced by Ki.
I was thinking of driving down to have these guys service, calibrate and align my studer decks. Anyone familar with them ?
The motor control board is fixed to the side of the chassis ,close to the take up motor. On it there are 3 (maybe 4?) of those horrible RIFA 0,47 uF caps.They are found in most of the later Studer/Revox machines. They are square,golden brownish ,often bulging and many times a dark black post apocalyptic ash .Some of these are under a metal shield and thererfore not visible at first glance. They have a habit of exploding with lots of smoke and in my case even fire.
As for Fred Thal: He has a total aversion to non-mastering Studers, especially the A 810. Wordwide the guy that IME has the most A 810 knowledge is a gentleman called Ki Choi-you may have heard of him?
The motor control board is fixed to the side of the chassis ,close to the take up motor. On it there are 3 (maybe 4?) of those horrible RIFA 0,47 uF caps.They are found in most of the later Studer/Revox machines. They are square,golden brownish ,often bulging and many times a dark black post apocalyptic ash .Some of these are under a metal shield and thererfore not visible at first glance. They have a habit of exploding with lots of smoke and in my case even fire.
As for Fred Thal: He has a total aversion to non-mastering Studers, especially the A 810. Wordwide the guy that IME has the most A 810 knowledge is a gentleman called Ki Choi-you may have heard of him?
well I found the culprit. It was one of the golden translucent colored caps rectangular in shape...0,47uF, 150 volt ~ 50Hz. There are two of them The blown one is the further to the inside on the circuit bd. The other one shows cracks starting in the casing, but did not fail or I am assuming it did not since the deck did function after the inital blow out. I am not powering the deck up anymore until this is addressed. Thanks again jzda.
By the way, who has a recommendation for my capacitor super store (link) ?
The motor control board is fixed to the side of the chassis ,close to the take up motor. On it there are 3 (maybe 4?) of those horrible RIFA 0,47 uF caps.They are found in most of the later Studer/Revox machines. They are square,golden brownish ,often bulging and many times a dark black post apocalyptic ash .Some of these are under a metal shield and thererfore not visible at first glance. They have a habit of exploding with lots of smoke and in my case even fire.
Actually, the spooling motor control board is on the right side looking at the rear of the A810, close to the supply motor, not the take up motor. It has three of the .47uf 150V RIFA Metalized Paper caps in a cluster.
Actually, the spooling motor control board is on the right side looking at the rear of the A810, close to the supply motor, not the take up motor. It has three of the .47uf 150V RIFA Metalized Paper caps in a cluster.
You do not want to use a lower voltage. Look at .47uf 400v caps,Wima or something that will fit in place. Ebay has some different ones listed or Mouser electronics should be a good source.
You do not want to use a lower voltage. Look at .47uf 400v caps,Wima or something that will fit in place. Ebay has some different ones listed or Mouser electronics should be a good source.
Thanks Roger. Just finished buying a weller sodering station, desoder wick and flux with those nice little close cutting shears for cap lead clipping. Guess I'm diving into the Studer surgery arena....
Please note these caps are 0.47 uF 150V AC caps. Do not use caps with a 150V DC rating. I use the type of caps used for surge protection. Locally we use caps made by Supresscraft 250V AC. They fit exactly in the limited space vacated by the RIFAs.
No, take up is on the right when looking at the front. Supply is on the left. So it's reversed from the back.
All the schematics I have of that board show three caps. Looking at the board from the back, one is oriented long-ways front to back, and two right above it are next to each other oriented top to bottom. Perhaps one has been replaced with a different type, or perhaps blown itself away?
I can't seem to find the exact value for voltage. Would these work as replacements ? TIA
