Hello ,have you chosen hollow or solid models, please ?Yes thats right. At the moment I have a straight copper one in there, but I also have a rhodium and silver one still to try. These arent Veras ones, you can get them off ebay cheaply to see how they change the sound. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204932285051 Someone also said a titanium one sounds great too https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226240041929
As to the overall change, its an effect of more music coming through, like its coming through a fire hose rather than a hose pipe, everything just seems to be more full I guess, more detail, more presence. Apparently the effect is more marked the higher the current draw, so amps in particular are supposed to respond well although haven't tried them yet, and vice versa a low current device like the server is supposed to have the lesser effect. However despite this, I would recommend them, they are worth it even for the Innuos
I havent got round to testing them yet, I'm currently playing with upgrading my cable connectors to Furutech Rhodiums and testing a new USB cable. Its still on my list of things to do. Also apparently they can be a bit directional so going to experiment with swapping directions tooHello ,have you chosen hollow or solid models, please ?
@Cellcbern Thanks for this re Pathos. Had been considering the SDFB for my Heritage MK2 which also has internal fuses. On to the next…Heard back from Pathos this morning. They recommend against trying the SDFB with the multiple fuse TT. End of story.
True dat. Nonetheless, I get the sense from this thread that there is little experience with multiple fuse amps. And I gather that Mark is not prepared to pronounce on the issue yet. I’ll let others take the initiative.Pretty much any OEM will be told by their lawyers not to endorse any product they haven't tested. However. if ever there was an issue, warranty law would require Pathos or any other OEM to show that it was indeed the SDFB that caused any problem. If you are technically savvy, and understand the SDFB, you can make your own decision. If you aren't, I guess you’re stuck listening to lawyers who always say "nope".
Yes, I have. Currently using one of my two SDFB with a Graphene Sluggo in my Musical Fidelity Nu-Vista 600 amplifier. It has 5 fuses, 1 main and 4 at the preamp stage. Verafi has advised me to only replace the main fuse. (I had a QSA Yellow fuse as the main, and QSA Black for the 4 preamp stage fuses. SDFB with Graphene fuse surely improved the sound. Second SDFB is (later) connected to the Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE dac, but now with a Copper with Gold Immersion (Super Sluggo). A further improvement. Will try another Graphene Sluggo next....Anyone tried the SDFB on a component with multiple internal fuses? I'm considering one for a Riviera AIC10 but that thing has like 4 or 5 fuses inside.
That's not the issue with Pathos. As I've described in detail at this forum, I had extensive modifications done to my PathosTT and the factory never warned or discouraged me. Quite the opposite - they shared things they had experimented with, made suggestions for upgrades, and provided feedback to my tech, the late Bill Thalman, regarding the likley impact of different parts changes. The issue is that since we are talking about integrated amps there are different fuses of different values for the current going to the pre-amp section (2A) and the power amp section (6.3A). The SDFB can only accommodate one fuse value so there is no way to make it work. Mark Schifter of Vera-Fi Audio also spoke with Pathos about this.Pretty much any OEM will be told by their lawyers not to endorse any product they haven't tested. However. if ever there was an issue, warranty law would require Pathos or any other OEM to show that it was indeed the SDFB that caused any problem. If you are technically savvy, and understand the SDFB, you can make your own decision. If you aren't, I guess your stuck listening to lawyers who always say "nope".
...I like to know what each fuse is there to protect. I've seen amps with fuses in the signal path and practically cried. I've seen fuses under the rectifiers to apparetly protect the heater power circuit--whcih can easily be repaired. So often when I see an internal fuse I think it likely doesn't need to be there. If the component it is protecting is less than $1000, I'm going to replace it with a slug.
Jerry
What are you guys doing who have nice AC cables? I'm looking at going from a $7k Shunyata Omega QR-s to the SDFB and then a $200 piece of wire between there and the actual PSU. Hard to believe that extra bit of wire isn't going to knock my sound considerably.
What are you guys doing who have nice AC cables? I'm looking at going from a $7k Shunyata Omega QR-s to the SDFB and then a $200 piece of wire between there and the actual PSU. Hard to believe that extra bit of wire isn't going to knock my sound considerably.