I heard those old scotch pancake tape 30 years old needs bake and check, after bake and play if black stuff remain to heads means bad , if clean that means OK, I don't know about RMG I468 's sound, but RMG SM900 is not as good as Quantegy GP 9 or 499 but RMG still in production
tony ma
and this was new tape manufacture, sometimes it could be the tape pack. you might try the library wind feature and then play it and see if that works out better. My Studer does some weird stuff sometimes but usually throws a error code. If all fails message Ki and see what thoughts he might have. Good luck.
Hi Roger,
I have already spoken with KI and he is of the same opinion, must be the tape. No error codes the PLL LED was lit and everything else seemed to be correct, also I have made several recordings since and no issues at all. I threw the tape away didn't want to take any chances it was cheap enough anyway, I just got out another and went forward so far so good!!! I am really hoping it was just that tape and so far it does look like it was!!!
and this was new tape manufacture, sometimes it could be the tape pack. you might try the library wind feature and then play it and see if that works out better. My Studer does some weird stuff sometimes but usually throws a error code. If all fails message Ki and see what thoughts he might have. Good luck.
Unless the machine is new to you and it has no previous track records, sudden changes in speeds are in most cases related to tape conditions. It is generally a good idea to put a picece of tape or indicator dots on where your tension rollers are positioned when everything is running well. For Jay's A810 it should be below 10 deg from horizontal 0 deg position of the tension arc for both supply and take up tension rollers.
If there are any challenges from the tape, you will see immediate changes on one or both tension roller positions. Most sticky or about-to-be-sticky tapes will cause rapid oscillation of the tension rollers before developing the dreaded gunk build up on tape heads and paths
In my limited tape experiences, I have not had any luck with the NOS tapes. Only ones I found to be acceptable were the tapes that were made prior to say... 1970... they are still good after all these years.
Ki,
That's where the tension rollers are, I made sure to set them as the manual says between 10-15 deg below 0 or horizonal. Everything seems to be back to normal I have recorded a few more tapes since the issue without any more issues!!!
Unless the machine is new to you and it has no previous track records, sudden changes in speeds are in most cases related to tape conditions. It is generally a good idea to put a picece of tape or indicator dots on where your tension rollers are positioned when everything is running well. For Jay's A810 it should be below 10 deg from horizontal 0 deg position of the tension arc for both supply and take up tension rollers.
If there are any challenges from the tape, you will see immediate changes on one or both tension roller positions. Most sticky or about-to-be-sticky tapes will cause rapid oscillation of the tension rollers before developing the dreaded gunk build up on tape heads and paths
In my limited tape experiences, I have not had any luck with the NOS tapes. Only ones I found to be acceptable were the tapes that were made prior to say... 1970... they are still good after all these years.
So the friend with the possibly dusty CLS should give them a good spray of water before hooking them up to a high powered amp, is that the thing, hmmm?
Well I would not recommend it. I did it with no harm. You have to let t the little foam strips dry out. Vacuuming seems sufficient and does not require disassembly.
Well, I was amazed that someone would consider directing a stream of water onto a high priced speaker!! Obviously, there is a method to the "madness", there is a correct way of doing such a thing it to get rid of foreign bits: he may be already aware of such, or could look it up if he feels it's of value to try it ...
Well, I was amazed that someone would consider directing a stream of water onto a high priced speaker!! Obviously, there is a method to the "madness", there is a correct way of doing such a thing it to get rid of foreign bits: he may be already aware of such, or could look it up if he feels it's of value to try it ...
The best way to break a perfectly good demo system that has been running for days is to invite the bigwigs in to see it... I am sure an analogy to posting the link can be made.
Cleaning alone is only half the battle. Tape-head binding still happens. The solution is to follow all cleanings with a properly formulated head lubricant. This not only makes the head surface slippery enough to prevent sticking and releasing (chatter), but it also protects the metal surfaces from ambient moisture/humidity and retards corrosion.
What do you use for the lubricant? A specialty product, or something else? Wax, liquid (when applied), or dry? I have seen a number of different types but since I've been out of R2R for ages have no idea what is in vogue now.
Most certainly. At the very least anything from Ampex with black (non-slip) backing from the 70's and 80's. Some of it is so bad you can't even forward or rewind it.
I don't waste time trying to see if it needs it. If it's Ampex Grand Master, bake it first. Then carefully examine it before proceeding too quickly with forward/rewind operations. Watch for excessive shedding in play.
What do you use for the lubricant? A specialty product, or something else? Wax, liquid (when applied), or dry? I have seen a number of different types but since I've been out of R2R for ages have no idea what is in vogue now.
I prefer pure silicon lubricant, but in a pinch, I have some Radio Shack head lubricant that I bought in 1980 and still am using from the same bottle to date. A little goes a long way. It is not necessary to apply it excessively. Just a tiny amount is enough to break the bonds that can develop between tape and head surface. Many of the older Robbins lubricants I used to use from the late '50s worked well and were silicone-based. As I still have enough left to last me the rest of my natural life, I haven't looked on the market recently to see what products are available for this purpose. By now, it's likely becoming a specialty product.
