Right now you should be like Graham and get excited about rolling each driver in each horn. Gradually you will get more focused and morph into a Tao.
Since I have been going through a want to build phase, and discussing with builders, I will share the following:
First, you need to decide what design you want, i.e. front loaded, back loaded, downward firing, small one woofer, large two woofer, etc. Given your big room I would recommend my choice: dual woofer front loaded horns, unless you want to maintain at same size as your current duos.
Once you decide the design, you have to decide the driver. You will never be able to decide on one, so the thing is group similar drivers and roll them, i.e. similar size drivers with the same impedance that can be crossed over at the same point with minor adjustments. So Leif could, for example, swap JBL or Altec or Radian with his TAD if he wanted to (well he has already tried many). Bill's design is different and while he cannot use TAD or Radian without adjusting his crossover point, other drivers like BMS, Lowther, are similar to AER in that regard at the same crossover point (though the AER is vastly superior).
So which design or driver should you start with? Well, the one you like and have heard, and the one you can get crossovers for. If you start doing the whole build yourself from the beginning based on theory, you might be lost forever. My suggestion is to assemble a proven design first, and then learn how to tweak crossovers etc so you always have a reference to come back to. For me the Altec 817 or Leif's can be assembled, and then I could roll drivers if I wanted to. I was more focused on Beryllium anyway, so when I got TAD 4003 I bought it, and I had educated confirmation it was the best. The other drivers are more easily available and can be bought any time. That said, if I bought a , for example, JBL 2482 (phenolic), I wouldn't know what to do with it since I haven't heard a good speaker with that driver yet, though I am sure you can fit it into Leif's design with a JBL tweeter adjusting crossover points slightly.
When you investigate drivers and designs you will see some horns go with certain drivers, e.g. Radial and JMLC with TAD types, additionally wooden multicells as well, and then tractrix especially for lower crossover points. Your crossover at approx. 2 times the cutoff for your horn.
As an example
Crossover: Altec 817 is 500 hz, Leif's 550.
Horn needs to be a approx 250 - 300 hz cutoff frequency to account for the above two crossovers. Can try radial, multicell, or JMLC with that cutoff
Below that dual woofers.
Decide on lower bass - with Altec 817 the vents in the midbass horn take over, with Leif's you need an additional big lower bass solution. Think about your room and visuals.
Start with keep things simple. Start with two way, check if you need tweeter, and add lower bass active. Some people believe in two way, some are willing to do more. If you get into building you will want to keep trying so might as well know where you can start and what you can roll. No one sits still in this hobby. At the same time, don't make the mistake of just building without a reference sound to get to
Great advice Ked.... thanks!