Robert Koda Takumi K15 Preamp

Thank you. I am not really sure...all I know is when I put the K15EX on the 4 HRS Nimbus Couplers...the sound signal seemed 'weaker'...usually a sign of instability of the component.

I then removed the front 2 Nimbus Couplers expecting to have the unit tilt down toward me...and it just stayed up! I then realized exactly how much weight is in the back of the unit. The powercable is definitely not THAT heavy!

I may try a different footer configuration later. For now, just enjoying!

If by any chance, you could indicate WHERE you put the footers underneath your K15EX, that would be really great.

Just underneath the chassis, next to the original feet. See pic below
 

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Just underneath the chassis, next to the original feet. See pic below
Thank you!!! Will retry later today/tomorrow.
 
Thanks and good to know. Where exactly do you have them placed underneath? Again, when I tried 4...i could literally remove the front 2...and the entire unit stayed up (ie, the front half of the entire unit was suspended in air...because I think the vast majority of the weight is in the back. Which meant that the unit was 'free' to move around on those 2 back footers.

I am trying to figure out where to put the 4 footers (or event 3) so that the unit is more solidly on top of all of the footers.

I use 3 revopods. I always find 3 to have a much more stable fit for obvious reasons.
 
I use 3 revopods. I always find 3 to have a much more stable fit for obvious reasons.
Thank you...yes, I was meaning to give that a shot in particular.
 
My koda k 1o with harmonix tu666M loses body, becomes more focused but ethereal.... I can't tell if I like it better with or without harmonix!
 
Hey Arshad,

Hope all is well. Great stuff...do you use 3 or 4 of the Shun Mooks...is there 1 in the back or 3? I also notice you have placed a Receivus underneath...is that right?
 
My koda k 1o with harmonix tu666M loses body, becomes more focused but ethereal.... I can't tell if I like it better with or without harmonix!
Interesting...losing body was kind of what i noticed when i had 4 underneath as well, and I decided something was not quite right and took it out...and am going to try again a different way. Historically, when I have done isolation right (can take a LOT of different attempts), I have had no downsides.
 
Lloyd, I'm surprised that with the system of chassis mass damping you employ, that you'd ever have issues with footers not mating correctly.
 
Lloyd, I'm surprised that with the system of chassis mass damping you employ, that you'd ever have issues with footers not mating correctly.
Interesting...in this one case, I have only tried once...AND I cannot mass damp (which normally I would try)...because of the shelf height. Relative to the CJ GAT 2 which was under 4.75 inches tall, the Koda K15EX is closer to 6.75"...which puts it within less than 1" from the underside of the shelf when you consider it is already sitting on top of a 3" high HRS M3X isolation platform.

I will try different footer configuration and update.
 
I have to ask this question for high-end electronics: are we sure that all of them need a support that is not its original ?
I'm starting to have some doubts especially when you have a rack that is also high-end....
Doubt, doubt, doubt...:rolleyes:o_O
 
I have to ask this question for high-end electronics: are we sure that all of them need a support that is not its original ?
I'm starting to have some doubts especially when you have a rack that is also high-end....
Doubt, doubt, doubt...:rolleyes:o_O
For my own experience, I have found benefit from good isolation for all the equipment...but it is surely system dependent, floor dependent, subwoofer dependent! ;) The M3X shelf was a clear benefit, but the footers in between the equipment and the M3X shelf not (yet). A work in progress.

However, it DOES take some multiple attempts to get it to work as sometimes, as I described above, the outcome is worse. But again, I emphasize, in the end, I have always found benefit after continuing to work at different options. One man's experience.
 
When you find the solution give us the news.... I also intend to switch to koda 15ex superground. Unfortunately I can't put it next to mine and decide.... I'll have to do it in the dark :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Well...I just put 3 Nimbus Couplers underneath. With less than 1 inch to spare on top of the unit, it is hard work to get your arms around the unit, heft one end of 30kgs up with one hand held at an odd angle while trying to slide an elastomer underneath...

In the end I put 2 couplers under the front (directly behind each foot)...and one under the back of the Koda towards the center...not quite centered (yet)...but enough that the weight is starting to even out between the 3 feet. I still need to play with the back HRS coupler, but it is bloody difficult to do from such an odd angle when you now have to use a ruler to push the elastomer centimeter by centimeter while holding up the unit with the other hand.

HOWEVER, all that said, it IS initially better...more of what I have come to experience with HRS...a deeper more intense tonal quality to strings. Literally hit play about 5 minutes ago and typing this now...more to come but so far very promising.

You really, really need to get that weight distribution right so that all 3 footers are taking real weight.
 
how does the ex15 compare to the preamp at technical brain? out of curiosity. how does this compare also in turn to a ch precision l1 mono ?
 
Well...I just put 3 Nimbus Couplers underneath. With less than 1 inch to spare on top of the unit, it is hard work to get your arms around the unit, heft one end of 30kgs up with one hand held at an odd angle while trying to slide an elastomer underneath...

In the end I put 2 couplers under the front (directly behind each foot)...and one under the back of the Koda towards the center...not quite centered (yet)...but enough that the weight is starting to even out between the 3 feet. I still need to play with the back HRS coupler, but it is bloody difficult to do from such an odd angle when you now have to use a ruler to push the elastomer centimeter by centimeter while holding up the unit with the other hand.

HOWEVER, all that said, it IS initially better...more of what I have come to experience with HRS...a deeper more intense tonal quality to strings. Literally hit play about 5 minutes ago and typing this now...more to come but so far very promising.

You really, really need to get that weight distribution right so that all 3 footers are taking real weight.

If the K15 is heavier at the back, would it make more sense to put 2 footers at the back and one in the front?
 
Why does a 60K pre amp even need footers?
 
If the K15 is heavier at the back, would it make more sense to put 2 footers at the back and one in the front?
That is exactly what I originally thought...but if you put too much at the back...then ironically, with all the loading at the back...the entire front of the unit can simply just 'hang' in mid-air! Which means there is NO downward pressure on the feet in front. I would have thought when vibration goes through the component then, you dont have a particularly damped chassis.

In order to really get the unit to sit evenly and flat and also 'fully loaded' on all 3 feet, I found it better to put 2 on the front and only 1 on the back so that more of the weight 'falls forward' over the front 2 footers. Hope that makes sense.
 
Why does a 60K pre amp even need footers?
Because as with nearly all things audio-related, we cannot help ourselves but to try to 'make it better'! I will say that as the components do get better, the level of isolation has to go up significantly to make a difference. The Gryphon is the best example of that...'almost' nothing in isolation made any difference...it takes some real doing to get any improvements. Part of it relates to the fact that the sub sits on the floor as well, and presumably there is 'some' vibration coming up from the floor.
 
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