274B choices?

[JSA]

Quite many of new production rectifiers are also pretty decent.
My recent discovery is EML 5U4GM - truly magical. For me no. 1 in my Pacific at the moment.
My previous attempts with NOS rectis were not too promising. But in all fairness I haven’t tried any of the uber expensive NOS tubes. My number 2 is still ACME 274B.

 

[rspyder]

Hi Carlsbad. Just catching up on my WBF threads. So glad you’ve been enjoying the Ken-Rad CKR 5U4G in the conductor seat of your Lampi. I’ve got so many wonderful insights from the WBF community I’m glad to pay it forward. All the best of the New Year,
Ray

 

[highstream]

Hi my WBFellows! ...

I can't try, nor can I afford, all the 274B and other rectifier tubes that have been reviewed by this group - but I have tried the KR5U4G (that came with my Horizon), Takatsuki 274B, Sophia Electric Aqua 274B (not Aqua II), Ken Rad CKR5U4G 1943 NAVY, Tele RGN2004 smooth plate, Tele RGN2004 silver mesh (circa 1932) and, finally the Tele RGN2004 black mesh (circa 1930). All the older fella's are NOS and some NIB. All, except the KR and Takatsuki, were compared with the Mullard ECC32 in the "converter" seats and SFR P.17C in the "power" seats of my Horizon because they are my preferred dual triodes and pentodes. The pics below show some of the other pentodes I've tried and loved.

The top 3 Horizon rectifier tubes to my ears and for my system, in ascending order, are the silver mesh RGN2004, Ken Rad CKR5U4G and, at the top of the heap - the black mesh Telefunken Klangfilm RGN2004. All are really good because they share the same characteristics and attributes: well built, reliable, play well with others, and help the dual triodes and pentodes in the Horizon reproduce music in a very real, analog-like and holographic manner with wonderful tone, proper pace and stunning transients. The oldest Klangfilm, distinguished by black mesh plates and bespoke production techniques (note the serial no. is embedded in the glass stem) betters the other two in realism, articulate bass, tempo and ethereal holography. In short, this 93 year old has the skills and energy of Leopold Stokowski conducting the Philadelphia Orchestra in Disney's Fantasia.

@rspyder I PM'd, but since no reply, I'll try here. What differences do you hear between the black mesh and silver mesh? Any difference in tone (neutral/warm)? I'm familiar with the silver.

 

[rspyder]

Hi Gene. Sorry for my tardy reply. I've been in Edmonton moving my brother into a extended care home.

The difference between the Tele RGN2004 "black" mesh compared to the "silver" mesh version is the former is a bit "warmer" (e.g. fuller/more musically dense w/a tad more inner tonal detail). Both are excellent, but in my system and to my ear the black mesh version adds a bit more of everything the silver does as a rectifier tube in my Horizon.

I was able recently to acquire a Telefunken NOS/NIB black mesh RGN2004 P8A. I'll send more pics when I unwrap it and insert it in the adapter. A real unicorn!

Regards,

Ray

 

[Zuman]

I've read this thread, of course, but I'm interested if anyone has any updated opinions.
My Modwright PH9.0xt phono stage uses a pair of 6c45s, a pair of 6dj8s, and also a single 5AR4 rectifier in the outboard power supply. The Sophia Electric Aqua 274B I've been running as the rectifier just bit the dust, and I'm looking for an under-$500 replacement. My first inclination is to relace the Sophia with another one.
If there's anything about my existing sound I'd like to tweak it's that on some recordings (probably about 10% of what I own) the highs can get a little strident at times (my amp is a Modwright KWH 225i integrated hybrid, with a pair of 6dj8s on the input side and a solid state output stage). If I could sweeten the top end a bit without sacrificing transparency and imaging, I'd be a happy guy.
Thanks.

 

[retired farmer]

I've read this thread, of course, but I'm interested if anyone has any updated opinions.
My Modwright PH9.0xt phono stage uses a pair of 6c45s, a pair of 6dj8s, and also a single 5AR4 rectifier in the outboard power supply. The Sophia Electric Aqua 274B I've been running as the rectifier just bit the dust, and I'm looking for an under-$500 replacement. My first inclination is to relace the Sophia with another one.
If there's anything about my existing sound I'd like to tweak it's that on some recordings (probably about 10% of what I own) the highs can get a little strident at times (my amp is a Modwright KWH 225i integrated hybrid, with a pair of 6dj8s on the input side and a solid state output stage). If I could sweeten the top end a bit without sacrificing transparency and imaging, I'd be a happy guy.
Thanks.

Interesting you found it a bit hot on top. Have you tried powercords? Or what is everything sitting on? Speaker wore and interconnects are you using? I found a big difference when u changed receptacles as well.

 

[Zuman]

Interesting you found it a bit hot on top. Have you tried powercords? Or what is everything sitting on? Speaker wore and interconnects are you using? I found a big difference when u changed receptacles as well.

I don't have a lot invested in power cords: Zu, Pangea, Viborg. I'm using a Hana ML cart on a Clearaudio Tracer arm on a Clearaudio Performance DC AiR table, which is sitting on a zaZen platform on a spiked Solidsteel rack. Speaker cables are Voxativ Due Edition and (balanced) interconnects are Hapa Audio.
I probably should have mentioned that I don't have the same degree of hot highs when I use my digital source. Also, the harsh highs are probably most noticeable on less-than-great recordings.

 

[retired farmer]

I just dont find the sohpiaelectric 274 hot on top is why I ask the other things.

 

[retired farmer]

I don't have a lot invested in power cords: Zu, Pangea, Viborg. I'm using a Hana ML cart on a Clearaudio Tracer arm on a Clearaudio Performance DC AiR table, which is sitting on a zaZen platform on a spiked Solidsteel rack. Speaker cables are Voxativ Due Edition and (balanced) interconnects are Hapa Audio.
I probably should have mentioned that I don't have the same degree of hot highs when I use my digital source. Also, the harsh highs are probably most noticeable on less-than-great recordings.

Oh that is very interesting I have a couple of cds I kept just to show myself what bright is. Lol recording quality is what I always thought was about a thrid of sound quality. The total equipment as a third and home setup the final third of sound quality. The other thing i find interesting is that yhe digital source is not as hot. That is not usual digital I have found is almost always hotter than analog on that note I would look at I would presume your turntable and all things in that part of your system. Anyhow it is frustrating but so rewarding when a person finds the problem.

Regards

 

[retired farmer]

Of your listed equipment I know you Hana cartridge a friend has one and I find it enjoyable and hot hot. The whole table setup tracking angle etc can make them sound hot as well. There are far better people on here to ask about that. Something that is easy that I might try is put about 1.5 x .5 thick hardwood blocks under you feet on the turntable I wonder if you might be hearing the stand. Try what you have available cheap and just see what it sounds like if it is still hot that likely is not your problem. If it does cool it down I would get very dense wood blocks for under the feet but that can wait til you try something readly available and cheap. A short length of maple might be a cheap way to start and you cut a bit off the end.

Regards

 

[Cellcbern]

I just dont find the sohpiaelectric 274 hot on top is why I ask the other things.

Me either, although it does take a long time to fully burn in (250+ hours).

 

[retired farmer]

Me either, although it does take a long time to fully burn in (250+ hours).

Agreed