Current not voltage, the voltage headroom is not effected and remains the same. I understand what you are saying but they are clearly not the same and the active crossover version is better overall and what is traditionally considered what bi-amping is. We agree to disagree on this one
Rob
This sums up the differences better than I can.
Active crossover:
1.16 - Adding up the Plusses
- Effectively (up to) twice the 'real' power of the amplifiers themselves
- Reduced intermodulation distortion
- Elimination of the low frequency passive crossover, its inherent losses, potentially poor linearity and crossover point inaccuracy
- Reduction of the difficulty of the load presented to the power amplifier
- No padding is required to align the driver sensitivities, so we are not simply wasting power
- The damping factor is greatly improved for both the low and midrange loudspeakers
- Complete freedom from any interaction between the loudspeaker driver (and its environment) and the crossover network
- Cost savings, since complex passive crossover networks are not needed
- Bi-wiring is included free!
- The flexibility to choose amplifiers which are at their best within a defined frequency range
- Ability to match amplifier power to the exact requirements of the drivers for maximum overall efficiency
I could go on (and on) here, but I shall resist the temptation. There is (IMO) no reason to not use biamping wherever possible, from small (i.e. computer) speakers through to top of the line hi-fi. The benefits far outweigh the disadvantages in all cases.
5.0 - Passive Biamping (aka Active Biwiring)
Although this is a topic I've mentioned briefly, it needs to be discussed properly. Using two amplifiers and two sets of speaker cables to drive the existing passive crossover is something I call 'passive biamping' or 'active biwiring'. Various websites may claim that it's true biamping, but it's not, never was and never will be.
In some cases users may hear an improvement, but make sure that it really is an improvement and not just a difference. Because you have separate amps driving the two sections of the crossover, you can easily have a level mismatch that leads you to think that the sound is 'better'. The gains of the two amps used must be identical, or the original balance between mid and high will be changed. Naturally the specific frequency depends on where the passive crossover splits the signal. Apart from (usually) a slightly easier load on the amps, both amplifiers still reproduce the full audio bandwidth, so there is no effective power gain.
In general, it is likely that the improvement - assuming there
is an actual improvement of course - will be small. It will commonly be so small that the additional cost cannot be justified, but this is cold comfort if you've already bought the amplifiers and speaker cables. Speaking of which, make sure that you read the articles on this site about 'high end' (rip-off IMO) speaker cables before parting with large sums of money.
For some additional details on the real differences between active an passive systems, see
Active Vs. Passive Crossovers. In particular, loudspeaker damping is always affected (sometimes seriously) by any passive filter, and commonly right at those frequencies where good damping may help control cone breakup and other unwanted effects.
ESP - The Audio Pages. How to biamp or triamp your hi-hi speaker system for greatly improved sound, and higher sound levels with less distortion.
sound-au.com