Audiophile Fuses

To be honest, i gave up my personal cell phone, i use my work phone for free. Plus got rid of cable TV. That was a $2000.00 /yr savings. I got rid of my Daily Tim Horton's coffee runs, that saved me another $3000.00/yr. So one year $5000.00 in 10 years, that is $50,000.00 just on 2 items i don't need. I applied that Money to direct principal payments on my Mortgage, in 5 years i will be Mortgage free. I make a good living, and don't go without. At the same time i live within my means. I do have preset limits in my brain as to what i will and wont spend money on.

Audio has taken over as my main hobby the last 2 years. I have 2 systems, my main system has 6 components for fuses, and the basement system has 3. I have spent all the money i am gong to spend on both systems, I have reached my end game. Short of moving into a new house, which i cant see happening this is it. The $1600.00 i spent on 9 Orange fuses is small peanuts in the big scheme of things. At the same time that was the last item purchased and the final tweak. Other things to spend money on first before fuses. But if you are on a limited budget, spend the money on good quality gear cables and room treatment first.
 
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I would call it a healthy, sustainable and responsible life-style where you are the one who is in control of his life, not the other way around. More people should follow.
 
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True. I guess it all depends on your starting point. If your whole audio set is worth $10k then incorporating a $2844 set of fuses seems imbalanced. However, when your reference point is $100k then it is a different story.

Thankful your AMR Gold Fuse perform so well and doesn't cost $2,844, hehehehe.
 
I have used the AMR gold fuses in the past and they were great, and very very affordable.

So AMR/iFi... a question, are your fuses directional, and if so, are they in the direction of the writing, or it is trial and error?
I now have an amp with 4 internal fuses, and it will be impossible to do trial and error to figure out correct directionality with that many variables.
 
I have used the AMR gold fuses in the past and they were great, and very very affordable.

So AMR/iFi... a question, are your fuses directional, and if so, are they in the direction of the writing, or it is trial and error?
I now have an amp with 4 internal fuses, and it will be impossible to do trial and error to figure out correct directionality with that many variables.

Usually in the direction of the writing is the best place to start, but unless marked and those aren't, then its t & e. Perhaps you could leave the top off temporarily? Are you sure all four fuses are important to change? My understanding is that the main purpose of fuse changes is the power line, i.e., what's feeding the power supply(s). I recall that with the Directstream dac there are two internally, but only one is in the power path.
 
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Usually its in the direction of the writing, but I seem to remember from a long time back that AMR fuses required you to test direction yourself. Even the early SR fuses were like that (you needed to test direction) until the more recent color releases.

My amp has 5 fuses. One on power IEC input, then two on the negative/positive power lines for each amp board. So that 4 internal fuses. All 5 fuses are in the power path. That's too difficult to accurately figure out even if doing it a single channel at a time.
 
Usually its in the direction of the writing, but I seem to remember from a long time back that AMR fuses required you to test direction yourself. Even the early SR fuses were like that (you needed to test direction) until the more recent color releases.

My amp has 5 fuses. One on power IEC input, then two on the negative/positive power lines for each amp board. So that 4 internal fuses. All 5 fuses are in the power path. That's too difficult to accurately figure out even if doing it a single channel at a time.

At the price, I can understand buying several. I'd suggest focusing on the IEC one and using the direction of the writing for the others, since fuses like this often "find" the best direction through use. In any case, as Paul McGowan likes to point out, what gets to the power supply, and the latter's quality, determines everything else.
 
When it comes to fuses it has to be evaluated on case by case basis. You have to think of the product and the particular component, where you wanted to incorporate a different set of fuses.

AC is bi-directional so directionality would not play a big role here. However. if Inserted into DC section then leave it in that one-direction (direction of the wiring)! AMR Gold Fuses are constructed in a way that there is an advantage to hooking them in a specific direction.


Let me give you two examples based on AMR products:

DC would be fuse on Optimains VAC pcb in 77 series.

AC position would be IEC inlet at rear of 77 and 777
 
Anybody our there having already compared SR orange vs. SR purple?
Go on Audiogon. There are multiple threads on this subject. In a nutshell, 100% of the people like the Purple better than the Orange.
I have had Orange in my system and then went to QSA yellow. Yellow was better than Orange. Supposedly, SR purple is better than QSA yellow.
 
Some comparisons: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/the-new-synergistic-research-purple-fuses

Also, https://www.enjoythemusic.com/magaz...h_UEF_Ground_Block_SE_Purple_Fuses_Review.htm


The Audio Magic Ultimate Premier is also improvement vs. the Orange — clarity, smoothness, bass
 
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I need some guidance
I have a Lampizator Bid 7 mk2 and I have tried a SR Purple fuse in it.
Problem I have is that after about 2 weeks the slow blow fuse blows upon turn on
I have no issues with the std fuse
Should I increase from a 1.6 amp to a 2 amp or even a 2.5 amp fuse?
Has anyone else experienced this?
Thx
Joel
 
The short answer is yes. SR fuses are not made to industry standards and the main symptom of this has been exactly what you’re experiencing: blowing on initial surge. It’s been discussed on forums for years, and even Mr. SR brought it up in a phone call not long ago. The common remedy is to go up a value or 25% (or more). First, contact Rob of Lampi NA for the amperage he recommends in the States, assuming that’s where you are. It’ll likely be higher than what the factory recommends (e.g., 3.15A vs. the 2A the factory says for a TRP). Then if you get an SR fuse, consider going up another value. The only way around this I’ve heard about is using tubes that turn on slowly, but that’s not wholly reliable. Btw, this is not an issue with other brands’ aftermarket fuses.

I might add that apparently most developers spec their fuse amperages 3x or 4x what's actually needed, to limit warranty repairs given the variety of users and circumstances. It's sometimes worth asking, because some don't.
 
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My Mom used to say when suggesting hot soup for a cold.........

"it's just chicken soup so it can't hurt"

Hate to say it but in my area, the cost of CDs has risen quite a bit and vinyl now goes for $15 and up for copies in lousy condition. Fun while it lasted!
 
I have a pair of custom made tube Class A/B amps (125 watts). I've been using SR fuses for a decade. The standard fuses are 5 amps; however, my amps required 8 amp fuses to work. The reason was the two 3" X 5" storage caps required filling at startup. The huge caps SR determined created a huge inrush of power. I've had no fuse problems (black. blue, orange) at 8 amps. I also have a monstrously upgraded Dynaco ST70 (tremendous bass through a voltage regulated supply&bias) using SR fuses at 50% higher rating with no problems.
 
I need some guidance
I have a Lampizator Bid 7 mk2 and I have tried a SR Purple fuse in it.
Problem I have is that after about 2 weeks the slow blow fuse blows upon turn on
I have no issues with the std fuse
Should I increase from a 1.6 amp to a 2 amp or even a 2.5 amp fuse?
Has anyone else experienced this?
Thx
Joel
Indeed every SR fuse I've spent my heard earned on has failed with turn on--

Reinstalling the correct to factory spec same rated stock fuse causing no problem with reinstallation into the units.

I'd avoid SR fuses frankly:mad:-money down the drain.

BruceD
 
Indeed every SR fuse I've spent my heard earned on has failed with turn on--

Reinstalling the correct to factory spec same rated stock fuse causing no problem with reinstallation into the units.

I'd avoid SR fuses frankly:mad:-money down the drain.

BruceD
Never had any problem with audiophile fuses including SR, and the audiophile fuses have always sounded better than stock fuses. Have 5 SR Orange at factory amp rating in my Pathos TT for three years without a single blown one. I’ve used Telos, Brimar, Audio Horizons, and SR. Note that Brimar fuses are a tremendous value. The only time I’ve had blown fuses is when something was wrong in the component. Note that Dan Wright of Modwright ships the PS 9.0 power supply with a 1A fuse but recommends using a 2A or 3A if using an audiophile fuse (I use 2A) because of the higher cost. Perhaps that is good advice for many components.
 
Indeed every SR fuse I've spent my heard earned on has failed with turn on--

Reinstalling the correct to factory spec same rated stock fuse causing no problem with reinstallation into the units.

I'd avoid SR fuses frankly:mad:-money down the drain.

BruceD
Have you considered trying a QSA fuse?
I am very satisfied with mine and I have not heard of them blowing unlike the SRs.
 

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