I have heard the effect. I borrowed an Audio Dharma. The before and after on a DIY interconnect was obvious. The only problem was the after was worse sounding than the before! I'm simply saying that this Frybaby3 toy does next to nothing.
I used to do this to burn in power cables, kept them plugged in for a week or two. It works well, each time the refrigerator kicks in there is a large current inrush that is excellent for conditioning cables, and it draws ssignificant current as well. Something like a Cable Cooker works differently, and the results sound different.Perhaps a dumb idea, but why not put inline with the refrigerator. Pretty good current demand, current changes periodically. And, I don't have to run all the equipment 24/7.
Thoughts?
Yep, patience / your brainI'm looking for recommendations on devices to speed up the burn-in on cables (Power, Interconnect, Speaker). Even better if it's something that can work on components and speakers; so far the only thing I've ever encountered in that area are the break-in playback files.
The Hagerman FryBaby looks to be one option that is reasonably priced. Wondering if there's anything else out there I should take a look at?
Great ‘ol school/home hack for mains cables. I too have had good success with this method. Now have a AudioDharma machine so I just default to it…I used to do this to burn in power cables, kept them plugged in for a week or two. It works well, each time the refrigerator kicks in there is a large current inrush that is excellent for conditioning cables, and it draws ssignificant current as well. Something like a Cable Cooker works differently, and the results sound different.
Perhaps a dumb idea, but why not put inline with the refrigerator. Pretty good current demand, current changes periodically. And, I don't have to run all the equipment 24/7.
Thoughts?
dear TimaI also own the Hagerman Frybaby. It was relatively low in cost which seemed appropriate to infrequent use and I read no downside from other users. I bought it to use on signal cables and for those receiving its application a small but clearly audible improvement occured. Similar to what dwhistance notes, I speculate the most significant benefit is to tonearm cables because the millivolts they pass are probably not enough to ever burn them in.
Here is the Frybaby in use on the Kondo wiring in my Kuzma 4Point. I made an adapter cable (red wires) for easy attachment of the cartridge clips.
View attachment 71852
View attachment 71853
dear Tima
I have just acquired one of these devices and see your set up above - I guess this must be current mode as it is short circuited.
Now I am a simple luddite - to put this into voltage mode do you simply disconnect the short-circuit? or do you plug the tonearm into your phono stage?
the instructions make little sense to me
thanks
Hi TimaAs I understand it, how you connect to the Frybaby2 depends on a) what you want to burn-in and b) whether you want current mode or voltage mode.
I have the Frybaby2. I write about that version. Version 3 is different. I don't know which version you have or what you want to burn-in. I looked at the manual for version 3 (just for you) and the concepts are the same.
"to put this into voltage mode do you simply disconnect the short-circuit?" yes, for interconnects I believe so.
To burn-in a pair of interconnects:
-- do a voltage mode burn-in first:
---- connect the interconnects to the Frybaby2 outlets leaving the other ends disconnected.
---- set the Frybaby2 to ON
next
-- do a current-mode burn-in
----- connect the open ends of the interconnect pair using the female adapter to close the loop.
View attachment 143060
I am relaying instructions from the manual. Suggest to contact Hagerman if you have questions.
Frybaby version 3:
View attachment 143061
From what I’ve deduced over the past 25 years, break-in is not about how much voltage, current, or power you can shove through a wire. If it were, power cords would break themselves in, right? Sorry Refrigerator Guy.
No, I believe it is all about the electrical and magnetic fields generated within the dielectric (insulation between conductors). Think of a cable as a capacitor. You break them in by doing essentially the same thing, exercising the fields, as much as you possibly can. That’s what the original FryKleaner did (generation prior to FryBaby), producing a signal equal to playing a hundred songs at the same time, basically white noise, while also modulating that signal in amplitude for more low frequency content. It also swept that modulation in time such that there was no constant steady-state information. The result sounds a bit like a vintage steam train speeding up and slowing down.
But that’s not all there is to it! We already know large voltage and current do not do the trick, so what is it? I believe it is not the amplitude of the fields that are doing most of the work, but rather how fast these fields are changing in time. That is, frequency. The secret to break-in is high frequency, operating well above the audio band. This is also why I think USB and CAT5 cables tend to break themselves in.
Think of RIAA correction for a minute. It was an attempt to de-emphasize the 6dB per decade slope characteristic of the generator (cartridge), where output voltage (or current) is proportional to velocity. This is exactly what I think is going on with burn-in. It’s all about the rate of change of fields (velocity). So for example, a power cord at 120V and 60Hz (and I don’t care how many amps) does not do much to break-in that cord. Not even thousands of hours. Let’s double that frequency seven times over (2^7 = 128), or roughly 7.7kHz. To me, a 1V signal at 7.7kHz has similar burn-in capability as does the original 120V at 60Hz. If we doubled frequency twelve times (4096 * 60 = 246kHz), we have 32 times more oomph (2^5). This is exactly what my FryCorder can do (FryBaby goes up to 500kHz). You cannot do that with a refrigerator. Fast changing electric and magnetic fields are what work the dielectric, breaking it in faster than music itself.