Cartridge Screws

Hi Syntax, in a 2011 discussion on A'gon about a Lyra Skala installation you suggested copper screws to the TO instead of aluminium ones and Jonathan Carr mentioned that he prefered titanium screws if they are machined. So you agree with him now?

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/lyra-skala-installation#1

One thing that I always remembered from this thread as a long time Lyra user was his advice about the screw diameter for Lyra cartridges:
"One more comment regarding screws - the mounting screwthreads on the Skala (and all other Lyra cartridges) are 2.6mm and made to JIS standards. They are not 2.5mm, and they are not made to DIN or other standards. 2.5mm screws or DIN-spec screws will not sound as good as 2.6mm JIS screws (due to improper fit), and they may end up damaging the Skala body."

Do you know if Brakemeier offers his screw sets in both DIN and JIS standard sizes?
 
I did never disagree. I did use copper - And I still use them, because they are very good. 2011 I had no source for titanium screws.
When someone use copper screws, super. No need to change.
I wrote about titanium because I think, they are more available now. Copper screws were very hard to find years ago. Did that change now?
The Sklala has a Plastic body, you had to be careful not to overtighten it.
I had a Skala and based on that, I did use the Lyra screws for it.
 
I've read that screw tension can also have a profound effect on sonics. Sorry. Bad joke. No, seriously.
I will never forget the famous 2012 workshop on the Krefeld Analog-Forum where the late Tom Schmitz (one of the founding members of the German Analogue Audio Association and an extremely knowledgable guy in all things analogue) demoed this live before a larger audience. It was amazing to hear how an ever so slight turn on the screws changed the sound of the used cartridges rather profoundly.
 
Copper screws were very hard to find years ago. Did that change now?
Well, copper is a rater soft material. I was always a bit conscious about that fact for screws so I never really had the itch to try this.
 
Ohhh boy...that is not a can of worms I have opened yet. A tedious PITA....I will have to try it soon when time and patience permits.
And now think of Ortofon cartridges with the three humps on the top side that make the azimuth change every time you mess around with the screws... :)
 
I will never forget the famous 2012 workshop on the Krefeld Analog-Forum where the late Tom Schmitz (one of the founding members of the German Analogue Audio Association and an extremely knowledgable guy in all things analogue) demoed this live before a larger audience. It was amazing to hear how an ever so slight turn on the screws changed the sound of the used cartridges rather profoundly.

Very interesting. I thought I once read about a torque wrench (screwdriver) for cartridge screws allowing for repeatable tightness settings. While we are at it, what is the preferred head shape: slot, philips, or allen key?

I do think that heavier screws can effectively alter the resonance frequency of the cartridge/arm system and alter the sound, much as adding or removing weight from the headshell does.

If people are playing around with this stuff, they could also be playing around with the cartridge leads for removable headshells. Do people clean their cartridge pin contacts periodically?
 
And now think of Ortofon cartridges with the three humps on the top side that make the azimuth change every time you mess around with the screws... :)

I hate that. It’s also an issue with Graham arm wands too. God damn ridge skid plate on headshell underside that doesn’t play well with many carts. I want flat surfaces on my cart tops and headshell bottoms. Is that too much to ask ?
 
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Well my quest for titanium bolts commences. I forgot my Yamamoto headshell is titanium...View attachment 50708

Ahem, please forgive me.... do your ears a favour and go for better cartridge leads/pins. With those you will only get 70% what the cart can deliver. At best.
 
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Ahem, please forgive me.... do your ears a favour and go for better cartridge leads/pins. With those you will only get 70% what the cart can deliver. At best.

hah....I am not surprised by your comment and expected it....;) Do you have any recommendations to swap out the leads with ?
 
Aggelos (or similar) leads.
Silver wire, silver pins and flexible. No loss of details. Easy to change.

Syntax Lyras - 1.jpg
 
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s-l300.jpgAnyone interested in this? I have 2, one opened (mint) and one sealed. PM if interested
 
Aggelos (or similar) leads.
Silver wire, silver pins and flexible. No loss of details. Easy to change.

While I'm for good cartridge leads (not thick ones!) and headshells with silver I find bass is the first thing that suffers and then there's the coloration of silver which isn't everyone's taste.

david
 
Nothing makes me yawn more than a cable topic...but nothing needs good connection like phono. Silver can be a good thing here but certainly not a holy grail.
 
Each his own prejudice about coloration.
The Phono signal from the Pins is the smallest in the whole chain. What is lost here (based on materials which carry information) can't be brought back again. No matter how much money you'll spend later for your Phonostage.
Based on AES, Silver can carry more information (+6%) than purest copper.
Prejudice/opinion is a close partner in High End business. I prefer facts.
But happiness counts. And of course, listening to music :)
 
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