Can some knowledge person explain what are the main differences (technically and subjectively) between a stainless steel finish FR64s and a black FR64fx?
One was very heavy and very shiny. It had a stainless steel armtube and sonically the heft of a heavyweight boxer and about the same delicacy. It has an enormous bass heft and wide dynamic swings curtailed by a very audible resonance in the high mids,lower treble.Can some knowledge person explain what are the main differences (technically and subjectively) between a stainless steel finish FR64s and a black FR64fx?
Please take the discussions offline before prices go up, thanks ?
looks like a simple question, but this is complex....I will try to answer: (...)
whow, what a nice Cart!
What is it?, a rare Kiseki I would assume?
Have fun comparing the two arms, I hope you identified on one of my pictures the handwritten remarks of the FR 64/66 "zero" points to install the cart.
Another way is to have 230 to 231 mm Base distance (I use 230,5mm) and 50 to 51mm needle to Headshell/Tonearm point.
If you can fix both arms, you can interchange the headshells without changing the Cart mounting.
The "optimum" is close together, even with the small change in Geometry.
Du you have the silver or the copper versions?
Both arms are copper version. I have completely disassembled, assembled and re-aligned the Oracle III and started by mounting the Kiseki Agaat Ruby in the FR66s - 230 mm and 50 mm as you said. The cartridge is apparently as new - and contrary to my fears no mistracking at all!
A lot of fun and a great sound - full bodied and dynamic, although the Oracle has a colored, but very enjoyable bass. I must say that listening to Graceland in vinyl is much nicer than in CD!
Hi, who are you and what have you done with Francisco? You sold off a cone, like vinyl more than CD, next you might sell the dCS and get a Lampi.
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