Thanks guys, that info is all really helpful.I do not have any first hand experience with the Type 50 tubes. I find the Type 45 tubes to be the best tube that I have heard from top to bottom. In general the 45 Type tubes have great level of detail, intimacy and linearity and can be implemented in full range duties, as I have done with the Voice Transmission “Tenor”/Fostex full range drivers, without sacrificing anything, when used to drive full range speakers or drivers with 100dB or greater efficiency.
The Type 10/10Y/VT-25/801/VT-62/801A tube is actually better in terms of clarity, neutrality, transparency and “honesty” but the bass performance can lack impact and weight when compared to the Type 45 tubes. So when I decided to have a statement tube amplifier custom built, I went with the 801A., as can be seen driving the TAD TD-4001 Alnico drivers with Beryllium diaphragms.
So it depends on what application you plan to use your tube amp, which you are considering, in; if it is full range duties then the 45’s get my vote, but if you plan to spare the flea-power amp the bass duties, as I have done in the two TAD compression horn driver systems depicted above, then perhaps the Type 50 would yield greater satisfaction and better results.
Let’s face it, these flea power Single Ended Triode/Direct Heated Triode amps put out between 1.5 and 5.6 Watts, do you really want to use any of that power to drive a large bass driver (s)? The 2A3’s and 300B’s, while very good are a compromise for greater power output at the expense of “some” the lower output power Thoragated tungsten filaments triodes’ magic. I had a tube guru once tell me, “the 45’s are everything the 2A3’s and 300B’s which they could be”.
Now these are all generalities, my ViVA Aurora T monoblocks, with two 211/VT-4-C for rectification, a 211/VT-4-C driver and 845 output tube, gives me 18 to 22 watts and most of the magic of the lower powered triode tubes.
There simply is no right answer, recipe or formula. Most people see my collection as a big lot of equipment, I see it as separate optimized and well thought out systems. The key is to use the various components in applications that maximize their strengths and not try to make them into something that they are not.
Have a look at the Thomas Mayer website, VinylSavor, if you are not already familiar with it. Thomas’ blog has a ton of insightful information.
Thomas Mayer VinylSavor Blog
I plan to use a 45 or 50 type amp (initially) to drive the wide ranger CD in my existing horns while I use the 805/300B LM amp to drive the 15 inch woofers in my 96bd Pap OBs.
Carlos I had gone to the vinylsavor blog earlier to see Thomas’s thoughts as well. Always a great site.
But also thinking should I go for more high efficiency DIY horns then I’ll have plenty of options to power them.
I haven’t always had the best experience with actives and usually am generally happy to go simpler but I do think I need to reopen that option maybe if I go for 4 way horns down the track. Lots of choices but both of your feedback helps me to narrow down my research. Much appreciated.