I am sick of failing amplifiers

I would disagree. A point to point wired tube amp will be easy to repair. On the other hand, if Technics for example stops making a circuit board, it will be difficult to replace an integrated circuit.
The point is to buy quality to avoid repairs in the first place I think, not point to point wiring or not. I reputable brand will be more likely to last than a small backyard company , I think .

If it is properly made it does not break ,No repair is required, My Technics SU-A900Mk2 till still fine working 32 years after I bought it, even if the transistors may not be available any more. My Marantz CD63mkII Signature also works fine after 30 years. Original poster obviously had a poorly designed and poorly manufactured product, beeing point to point wired does not help then. It reminds me of certain crappy C@£$€€ tube amplifiers that used to hum and fail all the time.. Look cool but sound bad and fail. Properly designed tube amps does not fail either, my Cayin 300B point-to-point wired I had for 15 years without any problem, before selling it for twice what I paid for it.

It is a bit like buying cars, some people buy some Korean car because of the 7year warranty, then it must must be good right?. I buy my Toyota with 5 years warranty. Or buying a Alfa Romeo, nice design and looks good , but faults and failures all the time...
After 10 years the Korean car is rusty failing and going to the scrap yard, while I am still driving my Toyota after 20 years without the need for any repairs, just change oil and tyres.. And the Alfa ? it is in the garage beeing restored to former glory ;)
 
I think you are confusing a few things.
1)Quality components can be purchased by anyone. You don't have to be Technics to buy good parts. Actually, the high end manufacturers usually buy better quality parts.
2) PCBs are much harder to repair than point to point. Good luck getting an IC replaced on a board. It's MUCH easier to remove a defective component from a point to point wired board.
I doubt your Technics sounds as good as it did after 32 years. Nothing against the company or how well it's made- you probably need new caps.

Automotive: you are talking to a former Toyota Mfg Eng from Japan (me). I no longer drive Toyota. Quality is not what it was 20+ years ago. Around that time they started focusing on profit, not quality. My brand new at the time 2011 Lexus was not well engineered and had a couple of unacceptable defects. When Toyota refused to fix, I moved on. To be honest, I've had excellent reliability from numerous Mercedes I have owned since -- and I can own a car that's best quality is not (perceived) quality! But that's another story for another forum.

Summary: if you want a component to last 'forever', I'm with you. The fewest # of parts the better with few to ideally no, PCBs, are your best bet. A small company that hand selects parts is also going to be far better than a mass market company.
 
I don't have a failure issue. I have more a design issue. I believe the amp is too cramped in the enclosure. It should be laid out better. And its impossible to work on as it sits into a one.piece enclosure with a solid bottom. Only access is to pull everything out.

I hear a new one at the dealers. It wasn't any better. Its just a poor design.
It does have a CB for the caps in the power supply. Most other stuff is point to point.
 
I got the amps back. Fundamentally they seem fine. They are audibly noisy. Not as much as before. Enough to be heard. Not so much its overly annoying.
They have a bloomey midrange with a notable role off in the high end. The bass is pleasing and full to midbass. But I'm confident they are rolling off the low end too. My speakers limit a real evaluation of this.
I used them for about 2 weeks then put them in a box to be forgotten about. The Blade is just light years better in clarity and balance and speed. The Audion is more lush in the midbass. The noise, lack of extension and lesser resolution make them a back up or really a piece to sell. Time to move on.
You might want to let the amp sit on a set of speakers somewhere for another week or two so as to allow it to break in and see if it sounds any different. I know many people think break-in isn't a thing, but we've got far too much feedback to the contrary to entertain that notion- even our class D amps require break-in (about 450 hours) to really sound right, something we didn't expect at all.

But I find myself in agreement with some comments here; it might be time to move on as you say. I think maybe a good idea to go with something a bit more... established?? If you want a nice amp that doesn't break the bank, you might look into Jim McShane's renovated Citation 2 amplifiers. The Citation 2 was one of the best amps made in the classic era and was extremely competent. Jim's work on them is excellent.
 
Thanks, Ralph. I have a fantastic transdormer coupled, differential design PP Kt88. All Monolith. Amaziimg. Best I have heard on multiple levels. A little lean on bass body. But accurate.

I just want a set for some of the Bloom. I will let it go longer. It probably had 100 hours on it. I will give it more time. Maybe role a couple tubes.
 
If I want a SET moving forward, which I know you have reservation about Ralph, I would have a local company, Apollo Audio bring one over. I want to hear it first.
 
Since we are all sharing tales of woe, let me add to our collective commiseration with my own experiences. I have had numerous failures with high end equipment for 40 years. In the beginning, it was largely the CD transports that used to fail (dCS, Mark Levinson, etc.), since I ran solid state gear. As I got more into tubes, I had no issues initially for a few years with ARC, but recently as I got into SETs and other tube manufacturers, the problems have mounted, especially since you tend to use NOS tubes. With my Lampizator Pacific, I had a series of tube failures, and finally found some reliable tubes that I am sticking with, and not tube rolling as much. My Quicksilver 8417 failed multiple times, but Mike Sanders is great guy who lives just 100 miles from my house, and was able to fix them. They are working fine now for the past couple of years, although given the age of the amps, they have developed a bit of transformer hum that Mike says is unavoidable with older amplifiers. My JJ 322 SET that uses a parallel pair of 300Bs blew up a few months ago when driving my Quads, and had to shipped off to George Meyer AV in LA. They fixed it, and it now sounds splendid.

All of this has made me look for cool running solid state gear that's light and reliable. I was thrilled to have purchased the Mola Mola Makua all in one preamp and Kaluga class D mono blocks. They have been bullet proof for the past 2 years, and my go to electronics in the hot summer months (particular this year the Bay Area had many 100 degree days). I am not getting younger, so the days of my schlepping 200 pound tube amplifiers is going to come to an end pretty soon. I'm guessing my Mola Mola's will be my long-term reference going forwards.

I have several SETs that so far have worked reliably. One is a Cary 300B SE, which looks really well built, and I use it with my Klipsch La Scala. The other is a 421a SET built by Oliver Sayes. The 421a is a Western Electric power tube that can drive both channels up to 3 watts. I get a kick of out running the massive La Scalas with one power tube for both channels. Doesn't get simpler than that. The WE 421a is the sleeper tube of the century. It sounds better to my ears than the WE 300B, and the prices are still reasonable. Finally, I have a Triode Labs 45 mono block, and although that company has gone belly up, the amplifier seems well built. All of these (except for Cary) look like 1-man garage built pieces, so don't expect ARC quality with this type of gear. The prices are all much lower than what you pay for with ARC.

I am intrigued by Atmasphere not blowing up a resistor when a tube goes. Sadly, my ARC gear does blow up the sacrificial 1 ohm resistor when a tube goes (and the newer KT150 tubes seem to blow up more often than the previous tubes). The most recent ARC gear blows up a fuse instead of a resistor. It seems that a tube amplifier that blows up a tube should continue to work if it uses a large number of tubes in the output stage. Not sure why ARC can't design such an amp.
 
If I want a SET moving forward, which I know you have reservation about Ralph, I would have a local company, Apollo Audio bring one over. I want to hear it first.
Hopefully the SETs are monoblocks. Like any zero feedback tube amp, SETs are very sensitive to the speaker cables. So its best to keep the cables as short as possible and the connections tight. Monoblocks allow the amps to sit by the speaker so the speaker cables can be as short as possible (this helps with midrange clarity and highs as well as getting more impact out of the bass).

Tell me more about your PP amp- does it run feedback? Is it stereo or monoblock? Who made it? If its only a 'little lean on bass body' there might be an easy fix! - and then you'd have your cake and eat it too.
 
Heck of a story GodofW. I wish I bought a Cary Sli180 years back. They made good stuff.
Yea, my audion had a garage built enclosure. Its cheap. Unique sound. I need to give it more time.

The Blade amp with the Monolith is a work of art. 78lbs per monoblock. It does eat the mercury vapor rectifiers. But they go slow so you know it. And they cost maybe $40. No problems with the power or drivers.

845 getting worked in.
Blade on my stand. Not a good shot.
 

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The Found Music website isn't particularly helpful finding out any information about the Blade with Monolith transformers. What class of operation is it? Does it run feedback? How long are your speaker cables? Between the answers to these questions and what tubes are being used, it should be easy to get better bass out of it. Does it use IEC connectors for the power cord?
 
Hopefully the SETs are monoblocks. Like any zero feedback tube amp, SETs are very sensitive to the speaker cables. So its best to keep the cables as short as possible and the connections tight. Monoblocks allow the amps to sit by the speaker so the speaker cables can be as short as possible (this helps with midrange clarity and highs as well as getting more impact out of the bass).

Tell me more about your PP amp- does it run feedback? Is it stereo or monoblock? Who made it? If its only a 'little lean on bass body' there might be an easy fix! - and then you'd have your cake and eat it too.
You can see the images. Audion are monoblocks.

Blades are also monoblocks. They do have some feedback. I don't know how it was applied. Some day I could flip it over and PM you an image. Mostly silver P2P wiring.

Scott Sheaffer of Found Music made the amps. I would not let anyone touch them out of respect to Scott. He takes every amp he makes very personal. And were friends. But I'm sure he would be open to talking with a knowledgeable engineer such as yourself. We all learn through our lives.
Rex
 
The Found Music website isn't particularly helpful finding out any information about the Blade with Monolith transformers. What class of operation is it? Does it run feedback? How long are your speaker cables? Between the answers to these questions and what tubes are being used, it should be easy to get better bass out of it. Does it use IEC connectors for the power cord?
6SN7 driver and 2 EL34/6AC7/KT77 power tubes~30watt ultralinear
OD3/ VT 139 voltage regulator
 
OK- you didn't mention the speaker cables. If they are long that will affect the bass quite directly! You really should not have anything longer than 6 feet IME. You also want to look into the power cord (I suspect you may already have done that, given your thing about wall wiring...). I've seen power cords have a pretty big effect on the bass the amp makes. You might also want to talk to Scott to find out what line Voltage he recommends. I recently worked on an Eico using EL84s which was running kinda hot. Turned out the unit was designed for 115V and was running on 122V. The cathode bias resistors were consequently too low a value so the tubes were running too much current( sounded OK but the output transformers lacked inductance so bass was pretty distorted below 35 Hz- not their best amp by any stretch).

120V is more common now than 117V so as a result we spec our amps at 120V at the IEC terminals. Just a couple of Volts can make a difference as the filaments cool off in the amp. So I'd talk to him about that just to make sure.
6SN7 driver and 2 EL34/6AC7/KT77 power tubes~30watt ultralinear
OD3 voltage regulator
Got that much but it does not tell me a lot. Pretty sure the OD3 could be replaced with proper semiconductors (Zener diodes) FWIW. Zeners are a lot quieter and easier to live with.
 
The Found Music website isn't particularly helpful finding out any information about the Blade with Monolith transformers. What class of operation is it? Does it run feedback? How long are your speaker cables? Between the answers to these questions and what tubes are being used, it should be easy to get better bass out of it. Does it use IEC connectors for the power cord?
Don't get me wrong. The bass is the most natural and real i have heard. It just lacks some body. Scott was over one day hanging out with me and he had me make some changes to the wires that come from the crossover to my driver. Big change for the better. He also had me get aircore chokes for the crossover. Again, way better. I have heard his amps on Daedalus Ulysses in a good room. That was the first time I understood what high end audio was all about.

I have Inakustik Air speaker cables. I think they are 5 foot.
Does have IEC Furutec. I have a nice gold fuse in it. Forgetting the brand. $70 or so.
I'm using his power cable. Maybe 14 awg all copper.
I forgot what the tubes are. Not near them to look.
 
6SN7 driver and 2 EL34/6AC7/KT77 power tubes~30watt ultralinear
OD3/ VT 139 voltage regulator
Yes the 6SN7 is the driver.
I think the regulator is a OA3. Mine are KT88 or KT120. I need to get a quad of KT120 from Upscale to try some day.
 
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Looks like a nice speaker cable. We have people play with the driver tubes in our amps all the time- with quite a wide range of results to the bass, mids and highs. The new boutique 6SN7s like the Linlai have been getting very good comments, such as 'all the best qualities of all the best NOS tubes without the weaknesses' which is a pretty strong recommendation. We've played them and they are quite good but we found you still have to vet them for microphonics and the like. Otherwise the best NOS 6SN7s reported are the KenRad, Red base RCA and the metal base (WW2) Sylvania 'chrome dome'. Obviously the power tubes affect this sort of thing too.

Based on what you're posting here, I'd really be questioning owning any other amps that are sitting around in storage...
 
I use RCA or the JAN Sylvania metal bass chrome top you mentioned.

I don't put the Audion in my big system. And yes, I am going to post them for sale once I break them in more. And I want to play them more just to experience them and know what they are really about. I have a lot of money in them. They have a nice sound. They just don't reach where I was hoping.

I do want to try biamping my speaker with the Blade through the stock crossover and something like the Atmasphers ClassD through an electronic crossover. The blade would probably go through the electronic crossover too. Mostly, the control the load the premap sees.
If it worked and I got it dialed where I wanted, I would get an active analog to replace the digital crossover.
 
I use RCA or the JAN Sylvania chrome top metal bottom drivers you mentioned.

I don't put the Audion in my big system often. And yes, I am going to post them for sale once I break them in more. And I want to play them more just to experience them and know what they are really about. I have a lot of money in them. They have a nice sound. They just don't reach where I was hoping

I do want to try biamping my speaker with the Blade through the stock crossover and something like the Atmasphers ClassD through an electronic crossover. The blade would probably go through the electronic crossover too. Mostly, the control the load the premap sees.
If it worked and I got it dialed where I wanted, I would get an active analog to replace the digital crossover.
 
I use RCA or the JAN Sylvania chrome top metal bottom drivers you mentioned.

I don't put the Audion in my big system often. And yes, I am going to post them for sale once I break them in more. And I want to play them more just to experience them and know what they are really about. I have a lot of money in them. They have a nice sound. They just don't reach where I was hoping

I do want to try biamping my speaker with the Blade through the stock crossover and something like the Atmasphers ClassD through an electronic crossover. The blade would probably go through the electronic crossover too. Mostly, the control the load the premap sees.
If it worked and I got it dialed where I wanted, I would get an active analog to replace the digital crossover.
FWIW Dept.: Based on customer feedback, our class D amps need about 450-500 hours to break in properly. The bass seems to come in last.
 

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