I bought these Tungsram E80CC. I like having original boxes.On the Tungsram E80CC side :
This one :
2 x Tungsram E80CC Tubes | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2 x Tungsram E80CC Tubes at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Or this one :
Tungsram E80CC Tube | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tungsram E80CC Tube at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
The o only difference I can see so far is price and the color red & yellow
LampizatOr Baltic 3
- Thread starter VoicesInMyHead
- Start date
Red is the specially selected industrial version ie better testing example of the same tube. Don’t however assume you will be able to hear a difference…On the Tungsram E80CC side :
This one :
2 x Tungsram E80CC Tubes | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2 x Tungsram E80CC Tubes at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Or this one :
Tungsram E80CC Tube | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tungsram E80CC Tube at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
The o only difference I can see so far is price and the color red & yellow
Curious if anyone has tried these new Wathen CryoTone 6SN7 tubes? They got a lot of buzz at the Decware site.
Wathen Audiophile Tubes
Kenreau
Wathen Audiophile Tubes
Kenreau
I have been using an EtherRegen powered by a Paul Hynes DR7T ( 12V ) output with an external OXCO clock connected to the ER clock input, plus i have a JCAT USB XE, which i have not been using due to a lack of a good external power like the DR7T, and i have been working on different schemes for that matter :
Today something happened to my ER and I need to do some soldering in its DC input, so in the mean while i connected the DR7T switchable output to the JCAT at 5V just to see how my system performs without the ER but using a the JCAT XE usb card instead of the MoBo usb output using my Sablon 2020 USB cable in both scenarios...well it was so easy to hear, :
If I need to have only one device powered by the DR7T would be the EtherRegen, and have the SABLON 2020 directly to MoBo USB output, Im guessing not only SABLON USB cable is very good but the Baltic 3 USB input in top, the difference is substancial
The audio switch for streaming with an excellent power is a must, I wonder if i could do better :
ER / DR7T ( 12V ) + External OXCO clock / SR5T ( 12 V ), cause although is a good combo those are too many devices.
Today something happened to my ER and I need to do some soldering in its DC input, so in the mean while i connected the DR7T switchable output to the JCAT at 5V just to see how my system performs without the ER but using a the JCAT XE usb card instead of the MoBo usb output using my Sablon 2020 USB cable in both scenarios...well it was so easy to hear, :
If I need to have only one device powered by the DR7T would be the EtherRegen, and have the SABLON 2020 directly to MoBo USB output, Im guessing not only SABLON USB cable is very good but the Baltic 3 USB input in top, the difference is substancial
The audio switch for streaming with an excellent power is a must, I wonder if i could do better :
ER / DR7T ( 12V ) + External OXCO clock / SR5T ( 12 V ), cause although is a good combo those are too many devices.
Other than the cost differential, to my ears the B3 sounded better, more livelier perhaps (it was not in my system). Anyways I have requested the dealer to loan me a big 7 mk2, for a few days so I can compare both dac's in my own system. Will report with more detail once I do that.
Cheers,
Sid
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Two questions:
1) Can two Baltic 3 inputs be connected simultaneously without affecting sound quality? E.G. AES and USB.
2) I have been advised the Baltic 3 can be made to sound better by replacing the Jupiter caps with ODAM caps, also replacing some resistors. Anyone done this?
1) Can two Baltic 3 inputs be connected simultaneously without affecting sound quality? E.G. AES and USB.
2) I have been advised the Baltic 3 can be made to sound better by replacing the Jupiter caps with ODAM caps, also replacing some resistors. Anyone done this?
My Baltic has Miflex‘s 2nd from top model (kfpm) copper foil coupling caps fitted, not Jupiter. They sound pretty decent and I haven’t rushed to fit the tinned Duelund which have been sitting in my cupboard for several months. Whilst I suspect there may be some component improvements to be achieved internally, there’s a fair bit of low hanging fruit externally wrt tubes / fuses / incoming signal / cabling which can be more easily addressed.
Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test
Humble Homemade Hifi - Very high quality loudspeaker kits, components, upgrades, modifications and custom solutions.
www.humblehomemadehifi.com
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Thanks for the link to the Humble Homemade HiFi cap review. It's quite comprehensive. Missing some capacitors of interest such as Audio Note Kasei, VH Audio ODAM.My Baltic has Miflex‘s 2nd from top model (kfpm) copper foil coupling caps fitted, not Jupiter. They sound pretty decent and I haven’t rushed to fit the tinned Duelund which have been sitting in my cupboard for several months. Whilst I suspect there may be some component improvements to be achieved internally, there’s a fair bit of low hanging fruit externally wrt tubes / fuses / incoming signal / cabling which can be more easily addressed.
Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test
Humble Homemade Hifi - Very high quality loudspeaker kits, components, upgrades, modifications and custom solutions.
I'm unlikely to have the Baltic 3 modified, but I'm curious to know if others have done so, and the results.
I received the Brimar rectifier yesterday. It sounds very good.
What do you mean by "simultaneously"?
Wondering where that info is coming from as never read or heard that anybody installed ODAM or Jupiter caps in B3. Jupiter was for sure used as one of few choices in older models. I played with ODAM caps but as coupling cap in ARC Ref75 power amp and its a great cap per se.
RE: simultaneously - I have a server/streamer with AES output and USB output. I have both outputs connected to the Baltic 3 to compare the sound from each. I have heard this is not preferred in some DACs because it may have a deleterious affect on the sound quality. Wondering about the Baltic 3. I have reached out to Lukasz.
My Baltic 3 was built in May 2022. Not sure if it has Jupiter caps or some other caps, but the point is I was advised better caps would result in better sound. This is from the co-owner of Vu Jade Audio, who has done this to a Baltic 2 in the past.
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I have friends with exactly same connections as you mentioned connected from the same server into B3 and there are no issues what so ever neither any sound deterioration.
Zero Lampis for years now does not have any other caps installed except Myflex which are Lampizator labeled/branded. I would not touch those as they did not come to these over night but rather via long process and huge experience as they've been using and also customers could choose output caps between all famous brands being Jupiter, Duelund, VCap, Mundorf,...
An issue I was/am struggling with is a touch of treble incisiveness from the Baltic 3.
Yesterday, I disconnected the USB and left the AES connected. I sense some smoothing of treble. The sound is more relaxed.
I have not yet disconnected the AES and connected the USB to compare.
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hi there from a new spanish member!
Gonna ask it here better, than my opened thread: how good would be trade my Auralic Vega G2.1 for a Baltic 3 (or new 4 I suppose) for an ATC SCM50 ASLT? miss some tube midrange magic and holographic scene. Would be paired with an Innuos Pulse or whatever recommendation.
As I downsized boxes, I will order it with VC, how good is the preamp? do You think I will be happy without a preamp naming atc ca2 or sca-2 or whatever... Right now using Vega G2.1 directly to the speakers as a preamp/dac/streamer.
Thanks in advance.
Gonna ask it here better, than my opened thread: how good would be trade my Auralic Vega G2.1 for a Baltic 3 (or new 4 I suppose) for an ATC SCM50 ASLT? miss some tube midrange magic and holographic scene. Would be paired with an Innuos Pulse or whatever recommendation.
As I downsized boxes, I will order it with VC, how good is the preamp? do You think I will be happy without a preamp naming atc ca2 or sca-2 or whatever... Right now using Vega G2.1 directly to the speakers as a preamp/dac/streamer.
Thanks in advance.
Curious as I am I had to try the Brimar 5Z4GY rectifier also, and even though I've seen it battling some top notch rectifiers here as well as on other forums, I didn't quite expect to put my own GEC U52 on the shelf. The Brimar sounds very clear, detailed and open, I think it could be referred to as being quite neutral and paired with my other tubes (RCA 6F8G, Tungsram E80CC silver) it sounds pretty good I must say! Easily well worth the investment and being one of the cheaper rectifiers out there you can't really go wrong. Thanks for the heads up and recommendation @Sablon Audio, very nice find!
Free upgrade for Baltic owners! Put a piece of tape over pin one of your cable to isolate vbus
Two questions.
1. Is it just the pin on the upper left that gets covered?
2. I assume that the Baltic has no issue getting recognized at turn on by the device before it?
Thanks!
Here is a diagram of the usb plug pin out, is just pin one / vbus which should be covered. All lampi dacs, both amanero and JLSounds will operate this way though some servers might not like it.
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