Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

[Zero000]

Jesus Christ the EML AD1 is one fucked up valve.

Talk about turning round in circles.

Post #1 is right and I still stand by it. With the microphony aspect still weird even with the Herbie's.

It varies over time, pretty obviously because of heat and expansion/contraction of the materials involved. But that's obviously not really the whole story.

It is off the scale for nuts sonics, though. Ridiculously top with obvious caveats.

I'd really like to talk to the bloke who created it. Maybe I should pick up the phone.

 

[warnie7]

TBH Lukasz, there are people better than you out there charging way less money for better results.

Get off my thread.

You may wanna look at Audionote dac prices and compare, I have not seen a 120K Lampi but Audionote dac 5.1 is around that price point

 

[Anyoldears]

Just a quick note to say the EF802's in a Pacific are freaking amazing! Had been running E83Fs before which I preferred to the softer C3G, the E83F had more dynamic life to it I felt.

Anyway managed to get some TFKN EF802s for a reasonable price (harder and harder to do) for a try. They show all the things I love about the E83F, plus a fraction less harshness, and way more imagery and naturalness.

I've tried all sorts of anodes in the Pacific and these are easily the best yet.

Second tip. I run my balanced Pacific single ended. I have been running some std E83Fs in the spare anode socket. I swapped out the std E83Fs for the top ones I was using before (Tung sol) and it improved the sound (by adding better bass). So even though the -ve part of the balanced is unused, the single end output is effected by whats in the other sockets

 

[Designsfx]

So even though the -ve part of the balanced is unused, the single end output is effected by whats in the other sockets

? Can you explain how that is working? How would the tube NOT be active but still affect the sound in a populated socket?

 

[Anyoldears]

? Can you explain how that is working? How would the tube NOT be active but still affect the sound in a populated socket?

No idea why it works, but it makes a difference. Maybe to do with the power circuit for the anodes being common? Who knows?

 

[SeagoatLeo]

I probably missed this. I used Chatgpt for best advice on a rectifier for my Poseidon and for my Westminster Labs amps/pre-amp and Von Schweikert VR9 SE Mk2 speakers it indicated that the smooth black plate RCA is best (with hanging filament rare but secondary benefit), a Ken-Rad foil getter smooth black plate or Tung Sol black plate as a 2nd place in sonic quality.

Is it a Sovtek 5U4G in my Poseidon as OEM or another similar tube?

It indicated the following which I find to be accurate for a Sovtek 5U4G Better for analog input as my analog system has adequate warmth and body but not digital as it is more critical.

Sound Profile: Neutral to slightly dry.

• Decent dynamics but not expansive.
• Relatively flatter imaging compared to NOS options.
• Can feel a bit sterile or clinical in ultra-high-end systems.

In the Poseidon:

• It will work, but likely underwhelming given your system’s resolution and the Poseidon’s potential.
• Good for burn-in or as a backup, but not recommended for long-term critical listening.

 

[Anyoldears]

I probably missed this. I used Chatgpt for best advice on a rectifier for my Poseidon and for my Westminster Labs amps/pre-amp and Von Schweikert VR9 SE Mk2 speakers it indicated that the smooth black plate RCA is best (with hanging filament rare but secondary benefit), a Ken-Rad foil getter smooth black plate or Tung Sol black plate as a 2nd place in sonic quality.

Is it a Sovtek 5U4G in my Poseidon as OEM or another similar tube?

It indicated the following which I find to be accurate for a Sovtek 5U4G Better for analog input as my analog system has adequate warmth and body but not digital as it is more critical.

Sound Profile: Neutral to slightly dry.

• Decent dynamics but not expansive.
• Relatively flatter imaging compared to NOS options.
• Can feel a bit sterile or clinical in ultra-high-end systems.

In the Poseidon:

• It will work, but likely underwhelming given your system’s resolution and the Poseidon’s potential.
• Good for burn-in or as a backup, but not recommended for long-term critical listening.

I used grok to tell me if I could use a valve, and it got it WRONG! (Electrical parts were the same but pin outs were different)

 

[SeagoatLeo]

I used grok to tell me if I could use a valve, and it got it WRONG! (Electrical parts were the same but pin outs were different)

Yes, I had the same experiences. Grok thanked me for corrections on my speakers weight, impedance, sensitivity and drivers.

Often, I receive excellent information. Such as what would be the match pre-amp match for my system and alternatives with many pages of explanation. Yes, AI offered two different scenarios, one with direct heated and one with indirect heated rectifiers for the Poseidon. The 4AR5 and gz34 would increase detail and be virtually non-sagging voltage regulators versus the 5U4G. After about 15 pages of explanations of how my digital end would improve with specific tubes and my specific system, it was obvious that what I was missing was greater dynamics, soundstage and especially body/warmth. Apparently, this is from the public information on the subject and geared to my system and my preference for acoustic rather than electronic music.

I especially enjoyed the AI analysis of my phono cartridge and alternatives. Spot on for knowing which would sound best to me with a flat high end versus a rising high end cartridge (why I prefer Dynavectors for decades) and why I had a not as good experience with the XX1 (and my friend with the XX2-boring after 20X2 and Karat versions).

I will report back on my findings using the RCA rectifier which I should receive by next week.

 

[Bobofei86]

Just a quick note to say the EF802's in a Pacific are freaking amazing! Had been running E83Fs before which I preferred to the softer C3G, the E83F had more dynamic life to it I felt.

Anyway managed to get some TFKN EF802s for a reasonable price (harder and harder to do) for a try. They show all the things I love about the E83F, plus a fraction less harshness, and way more imagery and naturalness.

I've tried all sorts of anodes in the Pacific and these are easily the best yet.

Second tip. I run my balanced Pacific single ended. I have been running some std E83Fs in the spare anode socket. I swapped out the std E83Fs for the top ones I was using before (Tung sol) and it improved the sound (by adding better bass). So even though the -ve part of the balanced is unused, the single end output is effected by whats in the other sockets

Which adaptor your are using for those EF802s?

 

[Anyoldears]

Which adaptor your are using for those EF802s?

I had one built by a guy off another forum

 

[Zero000]

Seriously, kids.

The pair of Western Electric VT-25 I was on about is off the charts good after a load of burn-in.

No other qualification of this fact required.

According to me at this moment in time

 

[SeagoatLeo]

Yes, I had the same experiences. Grok thanked me for corrections on my speakers weight, impedance, sensitivity and drivers.

Often, I receive excellent information. Such as what would be the match pre-amp match for my system and alternatives with many pages of explanation. Yes, AI offered two different scenarios, one with direct heated and one with indirect heated rectifiers for the Poseidon. The 4AR5 and gz34 would increase detail and be virtually non-sagging voltage regulators versus the 5U4G. After about 15 pages of explanations of how my digital end would improve with specific tubes and my specific system, it was obvious that what I was missing was greater dynamics, soundstage and especially body/warmth. Apparently, this is from the public information on the subject and geared to my system and my preference for acoustic rather than electronic music.

I especially enjoyed the AI analysis of my phono cartridge and alternatives. Spot on for knowing which would sound best to me with a flat high end versus a rising high end cartridge (why I prefer Dynavectors for decades) and why I had a not as good experience with the XX1 (and my friend with the XX2-boring after 20X2 and Karat versions).

I will report back on my findings using the RCA rectifier which I should receive by next week.

My experience with the RCA 5U4G black smooth plate with hanging getter. AI was not incorrect as to the added warmth, rear dimension addition and fullness of the sound. However, it appeared to lack inner detail and open sound. The sound was more speaker bound.

As to the Sovtek OEM tube, AI was certainly wrong. I only discovered it's mostly positive qualities after experimenting with half a dozen power cables on my Jay's Audio transport.
When I obtained the WL Quest 2 pre-amp, I had to move the Jay's Audio WL ultra power to it and choose another cable that I had. Unfortunately, the most recent and costly were really the culprit. I ended up using a GroverHuffman ZX+ from about 15 years ago on the Jay's Audio. The Sovtek really opened up and established a beautiful full sound. The soundstage was the largest in digital mode for my VS 9SE Mk2 speakers and the sound was nearly identical to my analog, very dynamic, so easy to lay back and enjoy all genres of music from rock, jazz and classical with open sound. I was astounded at the difference. I still would like to replace it with a WL ultra power cable but in the meantime while they are still in Hong Kong (and tariff issue possibly), this is a fantastic solution (my best friend also an audiophile suggested the older GH cable after 5 others failed to elevate the sound).

So, the OEM Sovtek rectifier is just great. The RCA NOS has it's benefits but in my system, I prefer the Sovtek. The problem with the flatter, less dynamic and certainly drier sound was the transport power cord, not the tubes.

 

[kspace]

First, I think the engine 11-p needs quite an extensive break-in period. With the Golden Gate I did not notice this as I had to slowly burn-in two types of DHT tubes, which takes a very long time. With the Atlantic TRP I did not have to be that patient. At first, the engine 11-p sounded quite 'hard' and 'etchy'. I could not stand the sound with the Siemens F2a which were my favorite with engine 53. After a couple of 100 hours, the Siemens F2a can be used and I like the sound. Engine 11-p has become much smoother, not hard and edgy at all. Very transparant, great bass, great imaging.

Golden Gate with engine 11-p and PT14 and RGN2004 mesh plate are a great combo, but maybe not warm enough to your taste. Well I agree with Bobofei86 who advised to use the Cossor 53KU (big bottle GZ37). These are indeed warm sounding, very smooth, great deep bass and still transparant. More easy going than the RGN2004 mesh, less exciting as well. Or Brimar 5R4GY. That one is also very British warm sounding. Now personally, I would not try to counterbalance one sound with the opposite other. Maybe it is not directly 'warmth' you are looking for, maybe it is a bit more smoothness but still very transparant. In that case something like the Western Electric 422a or 274B might work. But that will be an expensive experiment.

I agree the moment you change something in the DAC, for instance a new digital engine, you have to start all over to find out the specific sound you are after. I am also still working on it... but is part of the fun as well. Good luck.

What tubes do you like for the Atlantic TRP w/E-11p? Is the F2a still your favorite? I'm looking for tube suggestions for a Golden Atlantic TRP 3 w/E-11p that I am in the process of acquiring, having no prior tube experience.

Update: I found your detailed posts on the TRP thread, thanks for such an in-depth review! Now I just need to source a matched pair of f2a tubes