Physics is actually a science.
Magic is not a science.
We might be able twist Alchemy into being the grandfather of modern nuclear physics, however in terms of electronics Maxwell sort of removed a lot of mystery from the ‘equation’.
Oh , really?! I did not know that magic was not a science, as my Auntie witch Hazel gave her flying broom designs and appropriate spells to Wright brothers for a mere two pounds of pure Beladonna powder from Oregon....
 
Physics is actually a science.
Magic is not a science.
We might be able twist Alchemy into being the grandfather of modern nuclear physics, however in terms of electronics Maxwell sort of removed a lot of mystery from the ‘equation’.
Having been raised in family of 2 and half physicists, and having tried to copy some ancient Alchemy experiments (which led to an explosion in my friend's garage on Long Island) as I was sorta good at deciphering some ancient Jewish Kabbalistic cryptic texts on the subject (not that fake Gnostic crap) , I can tell you that those two fields have very little in common... Apothecary and chemistry may be ;)
 
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Having been raised in family of 2 and half physicists, and having tried to copy some ancient Alchemy experiments (which led to an explosion in my friend's garage on Long Island) as I was sorta good at deciphering some ancient Jewish Kabbalistic cryptic texts on the subject (not that fake Gnostic crap) , I can tell you that those two fields have very little in common...
^Well done sir!^

I think Brookhaven is on Long Island…

Those old alchemy attempts at making gold from lead, sort of is actually on the right track of how things work in the nucleus of an atom, in which they absorb huge numbers of neutrons in cosmic events.
That just happens in milliseconds in the cosmos, whereas the old alchemists did not have Erlenmeyer flasks of spare neutrons to pour into the base material, like is available in neutron star mergers.

I don’t know any Aramaic, etc. which would be needed to read the other texts ;)
 
The tubes used in transatlantic applications did not go off and on ,and lastly were not in a room producing large amounts of acoustic energy. Lastly music unlike a phone has a constant change . If you used a stethoscope you can hear your music pretty good
Same on SS transistors .
I washed a video with chand of his very nice home and many audio rooms . In one part he has a set of quad panels on an el34 amp
He was told he never needed to change the tubes ever . There is some truth to this , but this leaves out the slow death of sound quality being heard.
With tubes being turned off and on as anyone does a few things happen no matter what it's designer used to hold off things
one is inrush current on not just the heater . But the plates too
a chemical blackening happens and this can be measured in tube conductance
Tube have magic in many ways , as do various non tube devices.
I think the glow of tubes adds to a almost endorphin release to some .
Myself included.
The 2A3 is one of my favorite tubes as well as el34 types
Both to my brain show speed but speed is a made up term but seems real to me .
With my amps, you have to turn on the heaters and let them run for a minute plus. Best to wait till all the hazey fog is off the glass. Then you flip the high voltage on.

I think a lot of tube life also comes down to how hard do you run them...My Mercury rectifier gets run hot. As such, I seem to fry them about every 1000 hours. Good thing they are like $40 each. The drivers and voltage rectifiers can go thousands and thousands. Maybe 8000 to 10,000. Not sure about the kT88. They have run over 1000 and still sound great. I am told the should go 3000 to 5000 hours. Part of why I bought the amps. New power tubes are $500 for a quad which fills both amps. Thats good tubes like Shuguang Hidden Treasure 50th Anniversary. Or KT120 from Upscale. The KT88 is better.

In my preamp, the voltage tubes have been running for 6 years. The signal tubes maybe 2. I swap them out depending on the flavor of sound I want. But they should both go tor 10,000 hours plus.
 
Please cease on my system thread the irrelevant discussion of fuses.
 
Please cease on my system thread the irrelevant discussion of fuses.
Ok, then give us an update on the installation and initial sound quality results of the Incito S. You have your masses to entertain! ;)
 
Congratulations, Ron!

I’ve spent time with the Incito S, Ageto, and Aether Pre-Amps, and also listened extensively to the Impera. The Incito S is truly something special, especially at this price point.
I’m eagerly awaiting my own Incito S and Aether Pre-Amp (Legend Series)!
 
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Ok, then give us an update on the installation and initial sound quality results of the Incito S. You have your masses to entertain! ;)
Hi Brad,

Sure! The update is that there is no update. I haven't moved the unit from the crate in its original location in the garage.
 
Yes, but physics does not tell you that a fuse can't affect the sound quality of high-end equipment.
Not the fuse, but Voltage drop across the fuseholder. You can measure it just like you can Voltage drop across a power cord.

Some equipment does not care (for example our MP-1 preamp, whose power supplies are heavily regulated) and some equipment, especially that which has a heavier power draw and no feedback, like our MA-1 amplifier, does.

SETs will be prone to 'sound differences' of fuses and power cords since they have no feedback. Our class D amplifier, which employs about 37dB of feedback and has low power draw at idle, is pretty well immune to fuse and power cord changes. Feedback in high enough quantity (and properly applied) allows the circuit to reject that which is not the signal.

I recommend to our customers to avoid boutique fuses as they are expensive, don't always blow at their rating (may be higher or lower) and because the Voltage drop across the fuseholder is really what you are hearing. In most fuseholders the fit is not perfect. So sometimes you get lower Voltage drop by reversing the fuse, which has led to the myth that fuses are directional. You can get the same effect by simply spinning the fuse slightly to obtain a better contact in the fuseholder. A measurement of the Voltage drop will confirm the correct positioning of the fuse in the holder.
I think a lot of tube life also comes down to how hard do you run them...My Mercury rectifier gets run hot. As such, I seem to fry them about every 1000 hours.
FWIW a mercury rectifier has poor application in a modern tube amplifier. You're better off with HEXFRED devices, which are super fast and super soft recovery and can handle currents far higher than most tube amps might draw and can be made to be lower noise quite easily.

Mercury vapor tubes are used to reduce the Voltage drop across the rectifier and are also high current, usually much higher than you see in conventional rectifiers like the 5AR4. For this reason they were used as rectifiers for charging batteries and the like. They are also very reliable (and so can last decades) since the mercury cathode is self renewing. If yours are failing the application is really not right or may indicate that some other component is drawing far to much current. I'd get that sorted out if I were you!!
 
Not the fuse, but Voltage drop across the fuseholder. You can measure it just like you can Voltage drop across a power cord.

Some equipment does not care (for example our MP-1 preamp, whose power supplies are heavily regulated) and some equipment, especially that which has a heavier power draw and no feedback, like our MA-1 amplifier, does.

SETs will be prone to 'sound differences' of fuses and power cords since they have no feedback. Our class D amplifier, which employs about 37dB of feedback and has low power draw at idle, is pretty well immune to fuse and power cord changes. Feedback in high enough quantity (and properly applied) allows the circuit to reject that which is not the signal.

I recommend to our customers to avoid boutique fuses as they are expensive, don't always blow at their rating (may be higher or lower) and because the Voltage drop across the fuseholder is really what you are hearing. In most fuseholders the fit is not perfect. So sometimes you get lower Voltage drop by reversing the fuse, which has led to the myth that fuses are directional. You can get the same effect by simply spinning the fuse slightly to obtain a better contact in the fuseholder. A measurement of the Voltage drop will confirm the correct positioning of the fuse in the holder.

FWIW a mercury rectifier has poor application in a modern tube amplifier. You're better off with HEXFRED devices, which are super fast and super soft recovery and can handle currents far higher than most tube amps might draw and can be made to be lower noise quite easily.

Mercury vapor tubes are used to reduce the Voltage drop across the rectifier and are also high current, usually much higher than you see in conventional rectifiers like the 5AR4. For this reason they were used as rectifiers for charging batteries and the like. They are also very reliable (and so can last decades) since the mercury cathode is self renewing. If yours are failing the application is really not right or may indicate that some other component is drawing far to much current. I'd get that sorted out if I were you!!
We’re talking about all electronics, not just SETs when it comes to fuses…
 
Congratulations, Ron!

I’ve spent time with the Incito S, Ageto, and Aether Pre-Amps, and also listened extensively to the Impera. The Incito S is truly something special, especially at this price point.
I’m eagerly awaiting my own Incito S and Aether Pre-Amp (Legend Series)!
Thank you very much! I am excited to try it when I get around to it!
 
Ralph, Brad!

Please cease on my system thread the irrelevant discussion of fuses.

Due to some technical glitch did this post appear on your computers in Portuguese instead of English, and so that's why you didn't understand it?
 
Ralph, Brad!

Please cease on my system thread the irrelevant discussion of fuses.

Due to some technical glitch did this post appear on your computers in Portuguese instead of English, and so that's why you didn't understand it?
Is it irrelevant? The fuses themselves are; the reason people hear differences they think are associated with them are not. I addressed those rather than the fuses.

I put up my post because IIRC your power amplifier is a fairly high power SET, using dual output transformers in each channel which are then paralleled at the output. This helps avoid bandwidth problems usually associated with higher power SET circuits. I figure its efficiency at about 20%, which is to say it draws a fair bit of power. It is also zero feedback and class A which increases its susceptibility to power cords and the like. If you look at my last post, you'll see I stated exactly that; it is relevant if you want to get the most out of your amplifier dollar investment.
 

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