Here is the rough version .. totally agree
Totally agree ... here us the rough diy version
Show us your cable management system
- Thread starter Kingrex
- Start date
Totally agree ... here us the rough diy version
Why tin plated wire and tin plated spades?
Your bars are dirty and scratched. Spend 2 hours polishing them with 2000 grit paper, then jewlers rouge. Then wipe 8 to 10 times with Caig Deoxit.
You can also get copper power terminal blocks. They have screw clamps so you can ditch the spades. And they are insulated.
How are you handling the wires on the load size cord.
Your bars are dirty and scratched. Spend 2 hours polishing them with 2000 grit paper, then jewlers rouge. Then wipe 8 to 10 times with Caig Deoxit.
You can also get copper power terminal blocks. They have screw clamps so you can ditch the spades. And they are insulated.
How are you handling the wires on the load size cord.
...agree with polish, but personally, I would put an eyeball on this connection:
When I was planning my new listening room, I really wanted to have easy access to the cables. Because I swap devices frequently. There is a floor-to-ceiling window in the centre of the wall, so this space had to remain free.
Perfect for my cable access. It looks chaotic, but it follows a system. Power cables should never be laid next to signal cables. Crossings should be at a 90° angle if possible. I use fibre optics for galvanic isolation for my streaming components.
Here my wife said the rack stand inverted.
She's right, but it's intentional. This gives me very good access to the power cables.
My power amplifiers need a lot of power. The connection is fixed with NCF Booster | FURUTECH.
Perfect for my cable access. It looks chaotic, but it follows a system. Power cables should never be laid next to signal cables. Crossings should be at a 90° angle if possible. I use fibre optics for galvanic isolation for my streaming components.
Here my wife said the rack stand inverted.
She's right, but it's intentional. This gives me very good access to the power cables.
My power amplifiers need a lot of power. The connection is fixed with NCF Booster | FURUTECH.
Guilty as charged ! I am sure you are correct+
I did say it was rough .. although I did grind off plating on contact side .. the idea is the M6 bolt gives a very high torque connection .. more than a copper thread I would guess.. the inside of the lug cable reciever was also honed to bare copper
Not sure we have copper terminal blocks in aus .. I have only seen brass .. will have a look
The wire is not tin plated
Hilariously they terminate in tiny molex connection for 8 n core amps
I am looking at building a new power box for a complete system any info is appreciated.. I was amazed by the product @DasguteOhr showed
Phil
Your on the right path.
Yes, hone out the inside of the spade. Use 2000 grit paper. Even better to finish with a dremel and polish. But be careful. The polish can bed in the micro cuts from the 2000 grit and take many washing of deoxit to get it all out. Hence I said to Deoxit 7 or more times. Over 2 days.
Don't crimp so hard. Your deforming the spade to much. Bite it till a single crimp wont pull out no matter how hard you pull. Then do 2 more the same per lug. Or at least 1 more. This is what my crimp looks like
If you shield the cable, take all the drains to one spade.
You can also use Ilsco copper ground bar. No tin plating. Get the isolated ground/neutral stand off adapters. No spades required. If you can't find bare copper, hone the holes out. The bar is better as your getting rid of the spade and 2 additional contacts between it and the bar.
In one end, out the other with feeder to branch wires.
Yes, hone out the inside of the spade. Use 2000 grit paper. Even better to finish with a dremel and polish. But be careful. The polish can bed in the micro cuts from the 2000 grit and take many washing of deoxit to get it all out. Hence I said to Deoxit 7 or more times. Over 2 days.
Don't crimp so hard. Your deforming the spade to much. Bite it till a single crimp wont pull out no matter how hard you pull. Then do 2 more the same per lug. Or at least 1 more. This is what my crimp looks like
If you shield the cable, take all the drains to one spade.
You can also use Ilsco copper ground bar. No tin plating. Get the isolated ground/neutral stand off adapters. No spades required. If you can't find bare copper, hone the holes out. The bar is better as your getting rid of the spade and 2 additional contacts between it and the bar.
In one end, out the other with feeder to branch wires.
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When crimping, it is important to have good pliers that release automatically after the set pressure. This prevents damage to wires or wire sleeves. But it is only worth it if you use it frequently. Good models from e.g. Knipex with front and side crimping costs 80-100€.
This is actually a very good crimper for small gauge wire. I can release the lock if the pressure is crushing the spade/splice to much.
I have struggled to find a good compression crimper that's affordable for wire getting into the 2 to 2/0 range. The dies are very important in that gauge. A good hydraulic Ilsco or Burndy are great but they run around $900 to $1200. I don't crimp big wire that much. I tried the $150 Amazon one and it was a piece of crap. I went right back to a decent $350 Ilsco hand crimper. Way harder to work, but I get a good result.
I have struggled to find a good compression crimper that's affordable for wire getting into the 2 to 2/0 range. The dies are very important in that gauge. A good hydraulic Ilsco or Burndy are great but they run around $900 to $1200. I don't crimp big wire that much. I tried the $150 Amazon one and it was a piece of crap. I went right back to a decent $350 Ilsco hand crimper. Way harder to work, but I get a good result.
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I usually justify tool purchases with a notion of the money I'll save by diy ..but I have ended up with more tools than things built
Hence in this case the... errr bolt cutter crimps on the lugs
I have got a cheapie with replaceable jaws and long levers now and they seem to be not bad
How's this for cable management? Viewed at the Munich High end Show 2024..
Yes the room was sounding nice.I was in the Brodmann room in Munich, the system sounded very nice but that cable mess is just ridiculous. I don’t remember them using such ridiculous cables last year.
The cables well they probably contributed to the nice sound but they were definitely unwieldy, hence the rather unconventional layout
Hard to get a rats nest looking need so I focused on isolation getting the cables off the ground and trying not to rest on each other. I use 3d printed cable isolators (not my design) and they work well, It’s not perfect but it’s effective.
Republicoftexas69
Well-Known Member
Thank You! I don’t have as many cables as some here so I can imagine how hard it is with multiple amps, power supplies etc lol.
My first post and not the best pics, so bear with me. I find that having the right length and little slack makes for a tidy look. Plus my power cords pass through the inside of my cabinet, then come back out the bottom close to the dedicated outlets. This keeps them neat, and away from interconnects and speaker cables.
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Republicoftexas69
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