The Puritan PSM156

Could you advise which IEC connector you changed to … Presumably you upgraded the 13Amp wall socket end as well ?
I used an IEGO one, worked well, but I dont think you can get them any more. I also put on the Furutech 1363 gold wall end (UK) for the mains end, but found that didn't really make much difference
 
I used an IEGO one, worked well, but I dont think you can get them any more. I also put on the Furutech 1363 gold wall end (UK) for the mains end, but found that didn't really make much difference
Most interesting as I have recently been attempting to source an IeGO C19 ( wasn’t certain whether they manufactured a C19 ) to no avail so far , I like the brand very well . I am currently running with the stock IEC and a FI-UK 1363 NCF into a Furutech NCF wall socket .
 
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Could you advise which IEC connector you changed to … Presumably you upgraded the 13Amp wall socket end as well ?
I also use a Puritan PM156, it replaced a shunyata hydra alpha, and Puritan ultimate cables. I can’t imagine why anyone would want to change the IEC connectors or the 13 amp plug, they are perfectly fit for purpose. I have used a Furutech wall socket, had the same one for about 15 years. It’s been moved a few times.
 
Were one to actually consider modifying the outlets to say Furutech FI-E30 the completely independent output line topology means that one could phase in these expensive receptacles beginning with source equipment initially then Pre / phone and onwards .
 
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I also use a Puritan PM156, it replaced a shunyata hydra alpha, and Puritan ultimate cables.
How would you describe the difference between the Puritan setup and the Shunyata one out of interest?
 
I don't know about Shunyata vs Puritan directly. I have had 2 clients compare a Torus directly with Puritan and both kept the Torus. I have other clients with Shunyata Everest that don't plug their amps into the Everest. But they do plug them into a Torus.

My perception now is pretty much everyone will benefit from a filter. But you have to apply them correctly. A filter will find front end gear more forgiving. As in, more filters are apt to create a pleasant sonic change on signal equipment. Amps are more difficult. I have heard a couple people say they can get an amp on a Everest. I have heard others that say the background gets more quiet but the dynamics and soundstage suffer. I have had 3 people tell me they hear the Puritan compress the amp if they run 2 on 1 Puritan. One is a Puritan dealer and uses my Torus now. Puritan might work on a smaller stereo amp. But the second amp collapses the soundstage.

Almost universally a Torus on amps will result in a more quiet background, greater dynamics, an expanded soundstage and a sense instruments are more real. I personally have never heard it go other than that. I say almost universally as someone is bound to say they heard something else. But then I question whether it was installed correctly.

All filters have to be powered correctly The idea that a filter fixes poor inwall wiring is a myth and untrue. A filter will always perform at a higher level if you feed it a dedicated circuit. They will all suffer if the wire feeding it is insufficient. Filters are only their to remove noise. Generally high frequency. Low order harmonics as in 11th/12th and lower seem to walk right through every filter I have ever put a scope on. Whats more, the back pollution from filters like Shunyata, AQ and Puritan onto the main is massive. I did a live measure of a branch wire with 2 x Everest on it. You could actively watch the THD through my scooe jump to 17% as soon as they were plugged into the wall. I had a Furman sending so much back polution the circuit breaker in the panel was audibly buzzing in the room with the cover closed. We unplugged the Furman and the buzz was eliminated.

Puritan is a good budget filter. But I would argue a $3999 Torus RM20 is far more versatile and gives better overall sonic performanc.
FWIW I have put 2 x ARC Ref 160 and 2 x REL T32 on a single RM20. It was easy to hear it was better on all levels. That is way overloading that unit. But the point is that even that overloaded it improved and did not hinder the playack.
 
I don't know about Shunyata vs Puritan directly. I have had 2 clients compare a Torus directly with Puritan and both kept the Torus. I have other clients with Shunyata Everest that don't plug their amps into the Everest. But they do plug them into a Torus.

My perception now is pretty much everyone will benefit from a filter. But you have to apply them correctly. A filter will find front end gear more forgiving. As in, more filters are apt to create a pleasant sonic change on signal equipment. Amps are more difficult. I have heard a couple people say they can get an amp on a Everest. I have heard others that say the background gets more quiet but the dynamics and soundstage suffer. I have had 3 people tell me they hear the Puritan compress the amp if they run 2 on 1 Puritan. One is a Puritan dealer and uses my Torus now. Puritan might work on a smaller stereo amp. But the second amp collapses the soundstage.

Almost universally a Torus on amps will result in a more quiet background, greater dynamics, an expanded soundstage and a sense instruments are more real. I personally have never heard it go other than that. I say almost universally as someone is bound to say they heard something else. But then I question whether it was installed correctly.

All filters have to be powered correctly The idea that a filter fixes poor inwall wiring is a myth and untrue. A filter will always perform at a higher level if you feed it a dedicated circuit. They will all suffer if the wire feeding it is insufficient. Filters are only their to remove noise. Generally high frequency. Low order harmonics as in 11th/12th and lower seem to walk right through every filter I have ever put a scope on. Whats more, the back pollution from filters like Shunyata, AQ and Puritan onto the main is massive. I did a live measure of a branch wire with 2 x Everest on it. You could actively watch the THD through my scooe jump to 17% as soon as they were plugged into the wall. I had a Furman sending so much back polution the circuit breaker in the panel was audibly buzzing in the room with the cover closed. We unplugged the Furman and the buzz was eliminated.

Puritan is a good budget filter. But I would argue a $3999 Torus RM20 is far more versatile and gives better overall sonic performanc.
FWIW I have put 2 x ARC Ref 160 and 2 x REL T32 on a single RM20. It was easy to hear it was better on all levels. That is way overloading that unit. But the point is that even that overloaded it improved and did not hinder the playack.
A dealer I often use is big on Shunyata for years and I've used two of them, the UK6 and then the Hydra Alpha A10. They use them a wide range of amplifiers and other gear, mostly high end, whether DartZeel, Zanden, Macintosh, D'Agostino, Soulution and many others. Pictures here:

The fact is that the Shunyata and Puritan conditioners do much the same thing. I've used both, conditioners and cables. If you look at their papers on grounding, they're almost identical. The difference is that Shunyata is literally 10 times the price of Puritan. Puritan's accounts are publicly available. They spend £0 in marketing, very low costs, no fancy casework, 50% profit margin and Mike makes a very modest profit. It almost seems like he does it as a hobby. Puritan must be the biggest bargain in hifi.

People here have been using large balanced power supplies for ages, from Airlink, who have been around since 1991. They're in the Puritan price range or less.
 
I don't know about Shunyata vs Puritan directly. I have had 2 clients compare a Torus directly with Puritan and both kept the Torus. I have other clients with Shunyata Everest that don't plug their amps into the Everest. But they do plug them into a Torus.
Well … Who would have thunk it … Thank you enormously for your entirely unbiased ,, unsolicited commercial advertisment break !!! Is your product even compatible with EU / UK / World voltage requirements ?
 
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Well … Who would have thunk it … Thank you enormously for your entirely unbiased ,, unsolicited commercial advertisment break !!! Is your product even compatible with EU / UK voltage requirments ?
There do seem to be UK versions, but the more current you need the more expensive they get, and they get expensive. A 30A unit costs quite a bit more than a Shunyata Everest. Not sure how you can draw 30A without blowing the mains fuse.
 
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Well … Who would have thunk it … Thank you enormously for your entirely unbiased ,, unsolicited commercial advertisment break !!! Is your product even compatible with EU / UK / World voltage requirements ?
Yes, Torus sells worldwide. Yes I am a business. People are asking what works. I am stating what I am seeing in the field. You don't have to purchase one from me. But if you want what works best, then get informed information. I am giving as such. A Torus will work better on amplifiers that most any filter I have seen. You are welcome to use what you like on front end equipment. Many filters work well when used on the front end. They each have their own sonic signature.
 
Yes, Torus sells worldwide. Yes I am a business. People are asking what works. I am stating what I am seeing in the field. You don't have to purchase one from me. But if you want what works best, then get informed information. I am giving as such. A Torus will work better on amplifiers that most any filter I have seen. You are welcome to use what you like on front end equipment. Many filters work well when used on the front end. They each have their own sonic signature.
And you feel quite comfortable gate crashing a thread , specifically, opened for the discussion about a product which just happens to be a product directly competing with a product that you peddle , demeaning said product as against the one that you are making money from selling … Are you serious , No one in this thread remotely opened up the discussion to the effect “ People are asking what works “ You saw an advertising opportunity plain and simple !!!
 
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There do seem to be UK versions, but the more current you need the more expensive they get, and they get expensive. A 30A unit costs quite a bit more than a Shunyata Everest. Not sure how you can draw 30A without blowing the mains fuse.
You use a bigger fuse and branch wire to feed the unit.
I shipped a RM60 last week and I specified a #8 wire to feed the unit with a 30A x 250 volt twist receptacle to accept the power cord.
There are 2 options as you go larger. The most common option is the primary core gets larger and you have multiple secondary cores that are smaller. This has the advantage of some isolation from crosstalk of equipment. One core could be feeding amps and the second core feeding the front end. As you go larger you have from 2 to 5 secondary cores that can feed digital, analog etc. You don't need that power with a simple system. A RM20 has 5 duplex on the back to land 10 power cords and will absolutely feed a 150 watt amp and all the front end gear you want.

The other options is a single large primary core with a single large secondary core. In this configuration you use a subpanel on the load side of the Torus to feed the entire system. This is my favorite configuration with very large amplifiers as you will have 120 amps to 145 amps of available power to the entire system. This is a very expensive option. But if your running Boulder or Dagostino in 240 volt, you will like this solution.

In the UK, the RM 8 or 16 is the sweet spot. 8 amps in Europe is like 16 amps in the US. Either will run a 150 watt amp and front end equipment no problem. The larger you go, the less likely you will drive the core to saturation. You want to stay at about 25% or less of the total ouput of the unit. Any higher and you do start to go into a distortion.
 
And you feel quite comfortable gate crashing a thread , specifically, opened for the discussion about a product which just happens to be a product directly competing with a product that you peddle , demeaning said product as against the one that you are making money from selling … Are you serious , No one in this thread remotely opened up the discussion to the effect “ People are asking what works “ You saw an advertising opportunity plain and simple .
The OP asked for a comparison? Right. How much is a Shunyata. A whole lot more than a Torus. An Everest is $9000. I don't know the price of a Denali, but its a lot more than the RM20.

I was basically saying that a Puritan is decent. But there is better out there.
 
The OP asked for a comparison? Right. How much is a Shunyata. A whole lot more than a Torus. An Everest is $9000. I don't know the price of a Denali, but its a lot more than the RM20.

I was basically saying that a Puritan is decent. But there is better out there.

No he did not … https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/the-puritan-psm156.38005/post-934061

I do not doubt that you offer a a fine product at a certain price point *However* Do please cease and decist from grubbing for money on this specific product thread and perhaps consider starting your own !
 
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Yes, Torus sells worldwide. Yes I am a business. People are asking what works. I am stating what I am seeing in the field. You don't have to purchase one from me. But if you want what works best, then get informed information. I am giving as such. A Torus will work better on amplifiers that most any filter I have seen. You are welcome to use what you like on front end equipment. Many filters work well when used on the front end. They each have their own sonic signature.
I've used Shunyata and Puritan with Class A/D and Class A/B amplifiers. I used the Shunyata in a poor single phase system on the same ring main as the kitchen, then of a dedicated 100A from a 3-phase supply line not connected to anything else in the house. I then used the Puritan in the latter power system. They didn't have a sonic signature. They just reduce the noise floor so you get more information, which is most revealing in imaging and depth of soundstage.

There is a useful comparison done here. Compares a few conditioners and a P20 regenerator, which costs almost 10 times as much as the Puritan PM156. This chap came to the same conclusion as me, it just makes your system dead quite with maximum resolution. The killer is that it is so cheap and it just does not make sense to spend a load more money on anything else. For high power systems it is a fraction of the price of Torus as well. As my amplifier draws less than 2A I've got nothing to worry about.
 
You use a bigger fuse and branch wire to feed the unit.
I shipped a RM60 last week and I specified a #8 wire to feed the unit with a 30A x 250 volt twist receptacle to accept the power cord.
There are 2 options as you go larger. The most common option is the primary core gets larger and you have multiple secondary cores that are smaller. This has the advantage of some isolation from crosstalk of equipment. One core could be feeding amps and the second core feeding the front end. As you go larger you have from 2 to 5 secondary cores that can feed digital, analog etc. You don't need that power with a simple system. A RM20 has 5 duplex on the back to land 10 power cords and will absolutely feed a 150 watt amp and all the front end gear you want.

The other options is a single large primary core with a single large secondary core. In this configuration you use a subpanel on the load side of the Torus to feed the entire system. This is my favorite configuration with very large amplifiers as you will have 120 amps to 145 amps of available power to the entire system. This is a very expensive option. But if your running Boulder or Dagostino in 240 volt, you will like this solution.

In the UK, the RM 8 or 16 is the sweet spot. 8 amps in Europe is like 16 amps in the US. Either will run a 150 watt amp and front end equipment no problem. The larger you go, the less likely you will drive the core to saturation. You want to stay at about 25% or less of the total ouput of the unit. Any higher and you do start to go into a distortion.
Installing a 30A receptacle to an existing system would most likely be illegal and fail the UK safety requirements. To do it legally you would have to upgrade the cable from the consumer unit. In any event it would have to be done and certified by a qualified electrician.
 
Installing a 30A receptacle to an existing system would most likely be illegal and fail the UK safety requirements. To do it legally you would have to upgrade the cable from the consumer unit. In any event it would have to be done and certified by a qualified electrician.

And I will not be the one to attempt to sell ripping a trench in our 1920’s parquet wood flooring , to my wife , in order to achieve said installation ;)
 
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No he did not … https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/the-puritan-psm156.38005/post-934061

I do not doubt that you offer a a fine product at a certain price point *However* Do please cease and decist from grubbing for money on this specific product thread and perhaps consider starting your own !
The OP's experience is similar to mine.

The Puritan and Shunyata grounding systems, which are near identical, in association with the conditioners, have been a big benefit to a lot of people. The difference is: Shunyata Altaira £3,000 - Puritan Routemaster £395. Go figure.

UK prices:

Torus RM8 - 8 amp : £5,930
Torus RM16 - 16 amp : £7,500

Shunyata Hydra Alpa A10 : £5,950
Shunyata Everest : £10,700

Puritan PM156 - 15 amp : £1,450
(includes cable)
 
And I will not be the one to attempt to sell ripping a trench in our 1920’s parquet wood flooring , to my wife , in order to achieve said installation ;)
To get decent power we ripped up about 1,000 sq ft of floor including 400 sq ft of solid walnut and 300 sq ft of French oak, as well as digging up the road.
2381.JPEG2453.JPEG
 

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