Ok guys, that was one exhaustive write-up, and don't think I have done justice to it. Anyway view this as the first part. Not only do I expect to update this after reflection, but future trips will clarify a few things further
http://zero-distortion.org/the-italian-over-the-top-road-trip/
Most of the stuff was written on the same day and at the airports, to be honest to memories and impressions. It is the pics loading, and sectioning that takes more time.
Great report, Bonzo. There is such a variety of equipment and rooms, you did well just to document what you saw and report on some of the sonics. Your conclusion section is excellent. I understand why you want to go back for more detailed direct comparisons between amps and so forth. I really appreciate your comments about the B&W 805 and the importance of speaker placement within the room. To be able to identify this quality both in such a small speaker and in MikeL's large speakers means that you have learned a lot during your travels and have become a very observant listener.
I noticed many references to Magico speakers: M5, M6, M Pro, Mini, (no Q or S). Perhaps at another time, I would be curious to know what you think of the brand overall, and in particular how it compares to panels for speed, resolution and transparency and to horns in terms of dynamics. It was great to see photos of the Basis W of A turntable which immediately made me think of Ron and AJ, whom I was fortunate to meet once. I have heard a Tenor OTL and Magico Mini2 combination once, but alas, placement was not optimal to hear the full potential of this combination.
I chuckled at the mention of me and Al M regarding small speakers. Our respective systems seem to modest compared to the ones you have encountered. Al and I first came into contact during a thread discussion about small speakers and room size. It turned out that we live 10 minutes apart, and have been fast friends ever since. Every time I hear larger speakers, I have an immediate appreciation for the added extension, impact and full range that they can provide, especially on music like solo cello and large scale classical and Deep Purple. However, the speaker must be appropriate for the room first, and properly positioned, or that added extension simply detracts from the overall quality of the presentation. Size can really mess things up. I have always thought it is better to have believable sound down to 35-40Hz than compromised sound down to 20Hz.
Keep up the travels and reports. You must be learning a lot, and we benefit from your sharing the experiences. Much appreciated.