XLR to RCA DIY Conversion

[Uwiik]

What’s the consensus in doing this? I have a 1.5m Siltech Empress Double Crown XLR and would like to convert it to RCA. I know it’s best to contact Siltech/dealer but re exporting, waiting, re importing, paying more import tax doesn’t sound fun at all to me and I have mad soldering skill. Is it possible to do out ourselves without degradation in SQ compared to doing it there at the factory? Thinking to just use WBT/Furutech RCA and same brand solder tin as Siltech use those brand on their plugs/terminals too. Thanks!

 

[Sablon Audio]

I would recommend you get this work done by the factory / one of their agents in order to preserve resale value.

 

[Addicted to hifi]

What’s the consensus in doing this? I have a 1.5m Siltech Empress Double Crown XLR and would like to convert it to RCA. I know it’s best to contact Siltech/dealer but re exporting, waiting, re importing, paying more import tax doesn’t sound fun at all to me and I have mad soldering skill. Is it possible to do out ourselves without degradation in SQ compared to doing it there at the factory? Thinking to just use WBT/Furutech RCA and same brand solder tin as Siltech use those brand on their plugs/terminals too. Thanks!

Why do you want to convert to rca for?

 

[Uwiik]

I would recommend you get this work done by the factory / one of their agents in order to preserve resale value.

I am not too concerned about resale value because I never get what I wanted anyway when selling HiFi gears. Any detrimental effect to the sound quality?

 

[Uwiik]

Why do you want to convert to rca for?

I have unused pair of XLR and I don’t feel like buying new RCA for my Kondo setup

 

[Sablon Audio]

Any detrimental effect to the sound quality?

Possibly better, possibly worse, likely different. All depends on which plugs / solder (if you must….) / workmanship. That’s the underlying issue, you are entering a unknown situation.

 

[Cableman]

It’s certainly doable and I don’t believe there will be a sound degradation. It would help if you could use same solder as manufacturer tho. Do you require a guide on how to rewire?

 

[Cableman]

These plugs are very very good. In some cases superior to the the Furutech range, particularly the Monocrystal versions.

 

[DasguteOhr]

I would take this connector pure silver, fits Siltech and 4% silver solder is easier to process.

WBT Germany: Home

 

[Uwiik]

Possibly better, possibly worse, likely different. All depends on which plugs / solder (if you must….) / workmanship. That’s the underlying issue, you are entering a unknown situation.

I used to terminate and solder quite a few RCA back during my teenager car audio days, I’ll refresh and practice again with cheap RCA. I’ll probably use WBT 0102 AG best in class I think, I’ll aim to salvage as much of the original tin to preserve the solder the manufacturer intended but otherwise I’ll use WBT silver tin, should be safe right?

 

[Uwiik]

It’s certainly doable and I don’t believe there will be a sound degradation. It would help if you could use same solder as manufacturer tho. Do you require a guide on how to rewire?

Yes please, thanks so much. I also always wonder what should I do with the unused wire when coverting from XLR to RCA? Just not use it or double the ground? Advice?

 

[Uwiik]

I would take this connector pure silver, fits Siltech and 4% silver solder is easier to process.

WBT Germany: Home

Exactly

 

[DasguteOhr]

use a cheap cinch socket clamp it, put the plug on it. clean the soldering surfaces of the connector and your cable ends with isopranol alcohol. solder short and hot do not fry for long then it will be perfect

 

[DasguteOhr]

Yes please, thanks so much. I also always wonder what should I do with the unused wire when coverting from XLR to RCA? Just not use it or double the ground? Advice?

use it for signal pin just take it twice

P.S double ground changes the capacitance of the cable. not good idea

 

[Uwiik]

use a cheap cinch socket clamp it, put the plug on it. clean the soldering surfaces of the connector and your cable ends with isopranol alcohol. solder short and hot do not fry for long then it will be perfect

I have Dekko station, should be consistent enough. Anything against using soldering paste?

use it for signal pin just take it twice

P.S double ground changes the capacitance of the cable. not good idea

OK this one is new to me, thanks a lot. So I double the center pin (signal). Do you have diagram for the XLR pinout so I know which pin goes where?

 

[DasguteOhr]

Xlr standard earthfree...did youwant that?
No problem paste after soldering clean it with a brush&alcohol

 

[Uwiik]

Xlr standard earthfree...did youwant that?
No problem paste after soldering clean it with a brush&alcohol
View attachment 84452

Thanks so much, that was very helpful. Which one should I solder together with the Pin 2 Positive/Hot? Pin 1 Ground/shield I assume?

 

[microstrip]

I used to terminate and solder quite a few RCA back during my teenager car audio days, I’ll refresh and practice again with cheap RCA. I’ll probably use WBT 0102 AG best in class I think, I’ll aim to salvage as much of the original tin to preserve the solder the manufacturer intended but otherwise I’ll use WBT silver tin, should be safe right?

In my experience, removing the old plug is usually much harder than soldering a new plug. We have to heat the hole connecting surface to release the wire and the solder will easily overheat and oxidize - IMHO no point keeping it. I always try to remove as much as possible of the old solder and replace it with fresh solder when replacing plugs - I also use the old WBT silver tin, still have half of a spool of it. Remember that the fresh solder has de-oxidant core - it is a critical element in the soldering action and a controlled temperature soldering iron of adequate power is a must.

 

[microstrip]

I have Dekko station, should be consistent enough. Anything against using soldering paste?

Some people will probably have a different opinion, but IMHO most soldering pastes are extremely aggressive and can flow by capillarity inside the cable insulation where it can't be removed. It can damage the cable in the long term.

 

[Uwiik]

In my experience, removing the old plug is usually much harder than soldering a new plug. We have to heat the hole connecting surface to release the wire and the solder will easily overheat and oxidize - IMHO no point keeping it. I always try to remove as much as possible of the old solder and replace it with fresh solder when replacing plugs - I also use the old WBT silver tin, still have half of a spool of it. Remember that the fresh solder has de-oxidant core - it is a critical element in the soldering action and a controlled temperature soldering iron of adequate power is a must.

Thanks for the pointer, will use fresh WBT tin then