Amp Stand for Heavy Amp on Wood Floor?

[PhP]

Thanks for confirming my concern. Pathos suggest the same - replace OEMs with aftermarket footers. I’m having difficulty finding footers with a base that is not “sticky” or “rubbery” to the floor so the amp can slide relatively easily for access. unlike Isoacoustics for example which I use throughout the rest of my system and which adhere to the floor.

For people who need sliding feet also some damping (but much less than with rubber or very dampened feet), I had good result with HARMONIX TU-77M but i much prefer RF-808Z Million Maestro that are the quite best feet ** for people who don't want cones + bases. Also on wooden floor, cones+bases slide very easily (I use them under my APURNA™ mono-blocks).
Apart on convenience, very good feet are mandatory for stellar sound.
** HARMONIX TU-1000M are the best feet but much more expensive.
The very best at HARMONIX is TU-210 ZXM + RF-999a+ base.

​

 

[dgale]

I’ll look into them. Cones/bases is an interesting thought. As long as the cones will stay in the bases while being moved.

 

[PhP]

Hi Ron,

i used to have my Mephisto straight on my wooden floor , after some time I had Installed sorbothane absorbers under the feet, but this had ruined the sound.
Speaking with a friend with Mephisto Monos, I went for the HRS platform and couldn’t believe the improvement I got .

Hi

no surprise, sorbothan is best use for running shoes. HRS are very good platforms, among the very best, ...even if mine are a touche better in term of dynamic and neutrality.

 

[PhP]

I’ll look into them. Cones/bases is an interesting thought. As long as the cones will stay in the bases while being moved.

Cone will be "locked" in bases, but HARMONIX cones are not screwed. RS777Z+RF-909Z are very good and not as expensive than REI-168+RF999Z or TU-210ZXM+RF-999a+ (the very best from the master, period).

 

[Cellcbern]

Thanks for confirming my concern. Pathos suggest the same - replace OEMs with aftermarket footers. I’m having difficulty finding footers with a base that is not “sticky” or “rubbery” to the floor so the amp can slide relatively easily for access. unlike Isoacoustics for example which I use throughout the rest of my system and which adhere to the floor.

These are less than 3/4" tall, provide some isolation, can handle the weight, and would allow you to easily slide the amp. Not aware of anything better performing that wouldn't be significantly taller and/or not allow you to slide the amp:

Giant Fat Glider

For decoupling large and heavy speakers, cabinets, and racks. Herbie's extra-thick (3/8") dBNeutralizer Giant Fat Dot, embedded in a Magic Slider with smooth polymer bottom, grips the cabinet bottom (no need for screw or glue). Provides unsurpassed isolation/decoupling, holding loudspeakers...

herbiesaudiolab.com

Yamamoto PB 20 Ebony spikes (glued to the Pathos amp's bottom, e.g., with a thin layer of silicone adhesive) resting in Herbies Audiolab Giant Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider, would improve on the above in terms of sound quality while providing similar isolation and convenience, but be about 1.25" tall:

Yamamoto Acoustic Crafts PB-20 African Ebony Pin Base

Shipping will be in 1~3 business days. High quality ebony pin spike High quality ebony setting base Description The PB-20 and PB-21 setting bases are designed for amplifiers and speakers and can be used individually or in combination with each other. The material used is African ebony, one of...

exclusive-audio.jp

Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider

Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders for use between spikes and floor: absorbs a substantial amount of cabinet vibration, allowing speaker baffles and the cabinet itself to remain more motionless in place, and eliminates any reverberation from the floor affecting the speakers.

herbiesaudiolab.com

 

[PhP]

These are less than 3/4" tall, provide some isolation, can handle the weight, and would allow you to easily slide the amp. Not aware of anything better performing that wouldn't be significantly taller and/or not allow you to slide the amp:

Giant Fat Glider

For decoupling large and heavy speakers, cabinets, and racks. Herbie's extra-thick (3/8") dBNeutralizer Giant Fat Dot, embedded in a Magic Slider with smooth polymer bottom, grips the cabinet bottom (no need for screw or glue). Provides unsurpassed isolation/decoupling, holding loudspeakers...

herbiesaudiolab.com

Yamamoto PB 20 Ebony spikes (glued to the Pathos amp's bottom, e.g., with a thin layer of silicone adhesive) resting in Herbies Audiolab Giant Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider, would improve on the above in terms of sound quality while providing similar isolation and convenience, but be about 1.25" tall:

Yamamoto Acoustic Crafts PB-20 African Ebony Pin Base

Shipping will be in 1~3 business days. High quality ebony pin spike High quality ebony setting base Description The PB-20 and PB-21 setting bases are designed for amplifiers and speakers and can be used individually or in combination with each other. The material used is African ebony, one of...

exclusive-audio.jp

Cone/Spike Decoupling Glider

Cone/Spike Decoupling Gliders for use between spikes and floor: absorbs a substantial amount of cabinet vibration, allowing speaker baffles and the cabinet itself to remain more motionless in place, and eliminates any reverberation from the floor affecting the speakers.

herbiesaudiolab.com

I can only advise about serious designs. These are cheap brass or wood things that has no vitues in my mind and could even have a negative impact. Ebony at this price... Shun Mook were more (much) expensive and only some models were quite good.

 

[Cellcbern]

I can only advise about serious designs. These are cheap brass or wood things that has no vitues in my mind and could even have a negative impact. Ebony at this price... Shun Mook were more (much) expensive and only some models were quite good.

High value but nothing cheap (cheap ebony wood?) or non-serious about Yamamoto (who introduced ebony wood cones/cups and makes highly regarded tube gear among other things) or Herbies Audio Lab - lots of reviews can be googled. I have used both extensively with only positive effects compared with OEM feet. They are not top tier like the Dalby Audio feet, Wellfloat isolation platforms, and Marigo Mystery Feet (under my Pathos TT) that I use in my main system, but these would not meet the stated height and sliding requirements. Harmonix footers (which I've also experimented with) are top tier when they happen to synergize with a component, but are notoriously component specific, and may be too tall for the stated need. Note that in my experience combining the ebony wood cone with a brass cone cup (as in the Herbie's Audiolab glider) results in a more neutral (but still musical) sounding footer than an all ebony pair.

 

[Salectric]

A few months back I tried the Herbie’s Decoupling Gliders, and they were a disappointment. Fortunately they have an easy return policy but I feel guilty having taken advantage of it a number of times.

Over the years I have tried many of Herbie’s products including the Gliders, various couplers like Tenderfeet, and tube damper rings. None of them stayed. Each one had problems sonically.

 

[Atmasphere]

My question has to do both with an appropriate amp stand and ventilation clearance for my amp.
I have a Pathos Heritage MKii Class A hybrid weighing in at approx 200 lbs. it currently sits on my oak floor partially underneath my rack. (At 26” depth it sticks out a bit.).

The amp is 9” high. The space in which it sits is 14” high giving 5” top clearance. The rack space open L/R/F/B as you can hopefully see from the attached pic.

My question is this:
What is the minimum top side clearance if I add an amp stand? I’m hesitant to use anything 3” high, which most seem to be at minimum. It doesn’t seem to generate a lot of heat, but I want to err on the side of caution.

Unfortunately there are no alternative placements for the amp.

Thanks for any advice.

With any amp that makes heat, especially tube amps, you want about 1 foot above the amp. Otherwise consider using a fan to move heat away from the amp.

Tubes, oddly enough, don't like heat. It shortens their life. Heat is hard on electrolytic capacitors too. So its a good idea to keep a tube amp (but any amp that makes heat) well ventilated.

 

[Cellcbern]

My question has to do both with an appropriate amp stand and ventilation clearance for my amp.
I have a Pathos Heritage MKii Class A hybrid weighing in at approx 200 lbs. it currently sits on my oak floor partially underneath my rack. (At 26” depth it sticks out a bit.).

The amp is 9” high. The space in which it sits is 14” high giving 5” top clearance. The rack space open L/R/F/B as you can hopefully see from the attached pic.

My question is this:
What is the minimum top side clearance if I add an amp stand? I’m hesitant to use anything 3” high, which most seem to be at minimum. It doesn’t seem to generate a lot of heat, but I want to err on the side of caution.

Unfortunately there are no alternative placements for the amp.

Thanks for any advice.

I would definitely add fans, no matter what you do in terms of feet/platforms. Inpol amps generate a lot of heat. I have (AC Infinity) fans on top of each heat sink/cooling "tower" on my Pathos TT which are on whenever the amp is on. They pull air up through the chassis, and are quiet enough to run during music playback.

 

[dgale]

With any amp that makes heat, especially tube amps, you want about 1 foot above the amp. Otherwise consider using a fan to move heat away from the amp.

Tubes, oddly enough, don't like heat. It shortens their life. Heat is hard on electrolytic capacitors too. So it’s a good idea to keep a tube amp (but any amp that makes heat) well ventilated.

Fortunately the tubes are in the front of the amp which is not underneath the rack at all and are open/ventilated on all sides. That seems a plus.

 

[dgale]

Fortunately the tubes are in the front of the amp which is not underneath the rack at all and are open/ventilated on all sides. That seems a plus.

Atmasphere as in Atma-Sphere? I’ll take that as definitive advice. Thanks! Would you say that since the tube portion of the hybrid is not under the rack at all but only the solid state elements of the amp do I no longer need to worry about vent space above what is essentially the ss part of the hybrid?

 

[Puma Cat]

Thanks for confirming my concern. Pathos suggest the same - replace OEMs with aftermarket footers. I’m having difficulty finding footers with a base that is not “sticky” or “rubbery” to the floor so the amp can slide relatively easily for access. unlike Isoacoustics for example which I use throughout the rest of my system and which adhere to the floor.

Herbie's Audio Labs Threaded Stud Gliders: https://herbiesaudiolab.com/collect...s/threaded-stud-glider?variant=12651505745975

 

[Atmasphere]

Atmasphere as in Atma-Sphere? I’ll take that as definitive advice. Thanks! Would you say that since the tube portion of the hybrid is not under the rack at all but only the solid state elements of the amp do I no longer need to worry about vent space above what is essentially the ss part of the hybrid?

Solid state devices are a lot more sensitive to heat than tubes are. If heat builds up their operating point can change with it, which is why heatsinks usually have some kind of setup for thermal feedback to the amplifier to maintain correct bias (assuming a class A or AB hybrid).

The idea of having the most heat sensitive part of the amp in a questionable heat circulation situation would make me nervous. The more heavily biased the amp is the more important it is for the heatsinks to have good ventilation.

 

[dgale]

Nothing fancy. Just placed a 1” thick bamboo piece beneath my Pathos Heritage MKii integrated with Herbie’s Thin Dots between bamboo and oak floor. Amp rests much more securely now on floor though I’m not sure about any sonic impact. No degrading of sound though.

 

[ricjor1]

I really like LiveVibe Audio Platforms.

RP-1 - Live-Vibe Audio - Vibration Management Products

Single Shelf Platform

livevibeaudio.com

 

[Kingrex]

Recently I made amp stands. I used solid maple The maple is a true 2 inches thick. I got pretty inexpensive rubber feet off amazon to put between the stand and the wood floor The amps themselves sit on something similar to a spike on top of the maple slab. It was a very positive outcome. It cost me less than $200 complete.

 

[Puma Cat]

Recently I made amp stands. I used solid maple The maple is a true 2 inches thick. I got pretty inexpensive rubber feet off amazon to put between the stand and the wood floor The amps themselves sit on something similar to a spike on top of the maple slab. It was a very positive outcome. It cost me less than $200 complete.

With respect to rubber feet, folks should also consider getting some Tenderfoot Vibration Isolation footers from Herbie's Audio Labs. They're inexpensive, and designed & mf'd to actually attenuate vibration effectively, and they're easy to place. I use 'em under the Butcher Block Acoustic maple board that my Everest power distributor rests on.

Individually molded with a proprietary platinum-cure silicone blend formulated in-house in consultation with Wacker Chemie AG of Germany for maximum micro-vibration absorption. Recommended for audio and video components weighing from 2 to 220 pounds. Based on my personal experience with these for years now, they're very highly recommended, and they're only $16.49/ea.
Link here: https://shorturl.at/89BS5

 

[Atmasphere]

Recently I made amp stands. I used solid maple The maple is a true 2 inches thick. I got pretty inexpensive rubber feet off amazon to put between the stand and the wood floor The amps themselves sit on something similar to a spike on top of the maple slab. It was a very positive outcome. It cost me less than $200 complete.

If you get a chance, get a pair of steel or aluminum panels built that have the same length and width as your maple platforms. The panels should be 1/2" or so to be effective. Bolt them tightly to the bottom of the maple platforms. The two dissimilar materials will rob energy from each other; the result will be considerably more dead, allowing you to play higher volumes without stress.

 

[tony22]

If you get a chance, get a pair of steel or aluminum panels built that have the same length and width as your maple platforms. The panels should be 1/2" or so to be effective. Bolt them tightly to the bottom of the maple platforms. The two dissimilar materials will rob energy from each other; the result will be considerably more dead, allowing you to play higher volumes without stress.

@Atmasphere, would a constrained layer material in between the two - something along the lines of what Adona does - provide any additional benefit?