Denafrips product owners please fall in

[RikkiPoo]

Arrrgh!!!

I have a modest Wywires Digital Silver Juice II on the Iris and Digital Platinum Silver on the Terminator Plus and very pleased with the presentation.

You just planted the upgrade seed and now I can't stop watering it. It doesn't seem right to spend twice the amount on a PC as the DDC but if it's better.......

 

[Blake]

On the topic of power cords, I can't recall if we've had this discussion in this thread already, but I'm curious about others experience in terms of component hierarchy as it relates to power cords. Perhaps ideally, you would have the same power cord on all components, but this being the real world, where we upgrade cables one or two at a time you can end up with higher and lower performing power cords.

In that case, the normal question is, where to place my best performing power cord and so on down the line. I've read a few places and confirmed in my own system, that it was the power cord coming out of the wall, which then goes to the power conditioner or other distribution device that was most important and provided the biggest change in sound.

I experimented with this a while back but haven't re-visited this issue, so I'm not sure if my hierarchy would change.

1. Wall outlet to power conditioner/power distribution.
2. Source components (DAC, etc.).
3, Device power supplies (power cord to an LPS, that in turn powers something like an Uptone EtherRegen, or a Sonore UltraRendu, etc.).
4. Other source-related components (DDC's, USB cleaner type products).
5. Preamp (if used).
6. Power amp.

Curious if others have experimented and if so, what findings?

 

[alvin1118]

Enjoy the music and take care, guys!

 

[Lampie519]

it was the power cord coming out of the wall, which then goes to the power conditioner or other distribution device that was most important and provided the biggest change in sound.

Power cords can improve the sound of the system but do not determine it.
The source and speakers will (as these contribute to the highest distortion figures of any part in the system) !
Then preamp and power amps. Cables (any cables) will only act as "filters" or EQ's if you like...
That is my experience.
I use SpinX power cables BTW.

 

[Abyss Man]

On the topic of power cords, I can't recall if we've had this discussion in this thread already, but I'm curious about others experience in terms of component hierarchy as it relates to power cords. Perhaps ideally, you would have the same power cord on all components, but this being the real world, where we upgrade cables one or two at a time you can end up with higher and lower performing power cords.

In that case, the normal question is, where to place my best performing power cord and so on down the line. I've read a few places and confirmed in my own system, that it was the power cord coming out of the wall, which then goes to the power conditioner or other distribution device that was most important and provided the biggest change in sound.

I experimented with this a while back but haven't re-visited this issue, so I'm not sure if my hierarchy would change.

1. Wall outlet to power conditioner/power distribution.
2. Source components (DAC, etc.).
3, Device power supplies (power cord to an LPS, that in turn powers something like an Uptone EtherRegen, or a Sonore UltraRendu, etc.).
4. Other source-related components (DDC's, USB cleaner type products).
5. Preamp (if used).
6. Power amp.

Curious if others have experimented and if so, what findings?

Hi Blake,
How you doing buddy? My amp is on Tellurium SD straight out of the power socket (Furutec). It does not go thorugh my Triton conditioner. Tellurium was the one who recommended I do it and they were soooo right. As for the rest, my DAC has a SD as is the Gaia. The rest are on Tellurium Silver.
My power cord from the wall socket (Furutech) to the Triton is Shunyata Alpha NR PC.

Findings:
1. Its way better to plug my amp into the wall socket instead of going through the Triton.
2. As for the digital front I find it better going through the Triton, including the DAC and Gaia.

 

[Abyss Man]

Arrrgh!!!

I have a modest Wywires Digital Silver Juice II on the Iris and Digital Platinum Silver on the Terminator Plus and very pleased with the presentation.

You just planted the upgrade seed and now I can't stop watering it. It doesn't seem right to spend twice the amount on a PC as the DDC but if it's better.......

I'm so sorry buddy, but the Gaia does scale well. Try it. Enjoy the music. Stay safe buddy.

 

[alvin1118]

Hey guys,

The latest licensed Thesycon Driver (For Windows PC) v5.12.0 is available to download here: link.
https://www.denafrips.com/support

TUSBAudio - Thesycon USB Audio 2.0 Class Driver for Windows

Revision History
-----------------------------------------------------
V5.12.0 (May 18, 2021)
-----------------------------------------------------
* New: MIDI pipe statistics in the Spy utility
* New: several registry parameters for MIDI added
* Fix: switch preferred ASIO buffer size with driver package containing MIDI only and audio devices
* Chg: MIDI RX now uses USB flow control
* Chg: improved ISO packet error check
* Chg: scripts use Python 3.9.1 now
* Chg: DCK needs Windows 10 now
* Chg: documentation
* Chg: one channel can be part of more than 4 sound devices now

http://www.thesycon.de/usbaudio/TUSBAudio_history.txt

 

[martin778]

Bought a T2 recently, love it so far. Do you guys prefer OS or NOS mode? I'm upsampling everything to DSD512 and was wonder if NOS/OS even does anything with DSD, or is it only valid for PCM?

Haven't paid much attention to power cords though, I just connected my Furutech FP-3TS20 that I always use on my digital gear.
I hate boa constrictor power cords hanging on the sockets.
Had a figt with AQ Thunderbird ZERO loudspeaker wires recently, to even get them connected, so stiff and heavy.

 

[alvin1118]

Hey Martin,

NOS/OS doesn't have any effect on DSD playback, it applies to PCM only.
Furthermore, the filter (slow/sharp) applies to OS only.

Hope this helps!

 

[martin778]

Very helpful, thank you very much Alvin. Now I can sleep in peace

 

[richard_crl032]

On the topic of power cords, I can't recall if we've had this discussion in this thread already, but I'm curious about others experience in terms of component hierarchy as it relates to power cords. Perhaps ideally, you would have the same power cord on all components, but this being the real world, where we upgrade cables one or two at a time you can end up with higher and lower performing power cords.

In that case, the normal question is, where to place my best performing power cord and so on down the line. I've read a few places and confirmed in my own system, that it was the power cord coming out of the wall, which then goes to the power conditioner or other distribution device that was most important and provided the biggest change in sound.

I experimented with this a while back but haven't re-visited this issue, so I'm not sure if my hierarchy would change.

1. Wall outlet to power conditioner/power distribution.
2. Source components (DAC, etc.).
3, Device power supplies (power cord to an LPS, that in turn powers something like an Uptone EtherRegen, or a Sonore UltraRendu, etc.).
4. Other source-related components (DDC's, USB cleaner type products).
5. Preamp (if used).
6. Power amp.

Curious if others have experimented and if so, what findings?

Hi Blake,

If not already having dedicated lines, it will be worthwhile to do so.

Have digital and analog components via 2 separate ones .. 20A to 30A if required.

I have also "invested" usd10k+ in many of my preferred zonotone 7nps pc but best return is without doubt the 2 dedicated power lines to benefit entire system for a fraction of the cost .. usd500.

Cheers.

 

[Blake]

Hi Blake,

If not already having dedicated lines, it will be worthwhile.

Alternatively, or in combination with a dedicated line, there is a battery power supply that can be used to power some or all components:

Yeti 1000 Lithium Portable Power Station

short From lights to laptops, refrigerators to power tools, run all your devices with ease. Features a 1500W AC inverter designed to tackle any job, both indoors and out. features YETI 1000 LITHIUM HIGHLIGHTS Instant power at the push of a button. Silent and powerful 1045Wh, 96.8Ah (10.8V)...

www.goalzero.com

I was reading a review of the Raidho TD 4.2 and the reviewer is using a Yeti 400 for DAC and Preamp, and Yeti 1000 during the day on the power amp:

Raidho TD4.2 Floorstanding Loudspeaker Review Raidho's TD4.2 delivers the meaning of music within my listening room. Review By Tom Lyle

Raidho TD4.2 Floorstanding Loudspeaker Review Raidho's TD4.2 delivers the meaning of music within my listening room. Review By Tom Lyle of Enjoy the Music.com's Superior Audio Audiophile Music and Equipment Review Magazine

www.enjoythemusic.com

He mentions that using the Yeti 400 for the DAC/preamp and other front end components is even better than a dedicated line with power conditioning regardless of the time of day.

He uses a Yeti 1000 for power amps during the day time which he finds is also superior to a dedicated line with power conditioning, but at night time, the dedicated line for the power amps is better.

I've been thinking about trying one of these Yeti battery power supplies.

 

[RikkiPoo]

I understand the idea behind isolated clean DC from a battery. Doesn't the Yeti have to convert DC to AC. Wouldn't the quality of the AC still depend on the converter? How good is the AC? the 400 sells for about $ 500, there can be high end materials inside it for the conversion. I would worry about the current delivery capabilities for my tube pre-amp.

I do have a few SMPS's I have taken off my dedicated lines because of the audible noise they inject. I think that would be a place for the Yeti as the SMPS's don't seem to draw much current and the battery life wouldn't be a constant issue. Maybe using another for the LPS's to isolate them as while they are not as noisy as SMPS's all equipment add noise?

It also has a 12 V DC out. Would it be better than my LPS's from Uptone or Farad, it is cheaper?

 

[abg12]

Has anybody heard of a Korean version of the T+ dac? Apparently it is even higher spec'd than the normal T+ dac. See below.

https://imgur.com/8CBkPnA

 

[PedroS]

Hi, my 1st post here...
I have a Terminator plus, and it must remain on standby, as it doesn't have an on/off switch. Personally I don't like to leave any gear on standby during the night.
Issue is the Terminator gets warm even on standby. Ok, not very hot, but hot.
So what can I do to turn it off, without taking the plug out? I tried a high quality switch (12A rated), but sometimes when turning it on, the dedicated circuit breaker jumps... any help?
Thanks

 

[Ron Resnick]

Welcome to WBF, Pedro!

 

[RikkiPoo]

Congratulations on the TPlus. If you are using USB I would encourage you to look at adding an Iris to use the I2S input on the TPlus as it is best. Clocking the Iris with the RPlus is even better.

The reason there is standby button but no power button is that the clock needs to remain at an elevated temperature to perform best its an OCXO Clock- Oven Controlled Crystal (Xtal) Oscillator. It has to be on for days to come to equilibrium and best performance. I leave mine on on (not standby) per Alvin's recommendation for best performance.

You can always add a power strip as a power switch.

 

[martin778]

To be fair, I hate gear that dosn't have a mains power switch...had the same problem with a Krell KRC-3 and KRC-HR. Class A preamps just wasting power all the time if not in use.
it can't be that difficult to fit a good quality switch, since we're talking low power devices so the wear should be minimal.

Gryphon solved it very neatly in my Prelude preamp - the mains switch is hidden on the bottom plate just behind the front panel and on the front there is a standby switch as well.

By the way, weird thing, that Korean version of the T+. The T+ by itself is supposed to have cherry picked clocks.
Could it be a one-off by a local dealer?

 

[Blake]

I understand the idea behind isolated clean DC from a battery. Doesn't the Yeti have to convert DC to AC. Wouldn't the quality of the AC still depend on the converter? How good is the AC? the 400 sells for about $ 500, there can be high end materials inside it for the conversion. I would worry about the current delivery capabilities for my tube pre-amp.

I do have a few SMPS's I have taken off my dedicated lines because of the audible noise they inject. I think that would be a place for the Yeti as the SMPS's don't seem to draw much current and the battery life wouldn't be a constant issue. Maybe using another for the LPS's to isolate them as while they are not as noisy as SMPS's all equipment add noise?

It also has a 12 V DC out. Would it be better than my LPS's from Uptone or Farad, it is cheaper?

Yeah, I think you are right about the converter quality. The thing that got me interested was, the reviewer's system is obviously state of the art stuff, and here he was finding the $500 Yeti had better sonic performance than a dedicated line with power conditioning.

At that price it is almost worth taking a flyer on it and see if the reviewer is right about the sonic performance.

 

[abg12]

@alvin1118 Any info on this supposed Korean version?