I have several "problems" with subjectivism.... some philosophical and some brutally practical.
1) Objectivism is quantifiable. If you and I agree that we want "a straight wire with gain", then we can compare notes and measurements. If instead, we both subjectively "want what sounds good to us", then we don't have much to talk about because we have no common point of reference. At most we can try to find a reviewer who likes the same things we like, and listen to him.
2) On a personal philosophical note, I have already made MY decision, and it is "objectively subjective". In other words, WHAT I WANT is for my audio system to give me EXACTLY what's in the recording. Accepting that there are infinite possibilities for things to be decided and modified, my choice is that I want to hear EXACTLY what's on the recording, and I will then decide whether I want to listen to that recording or not accordingly. My ideal amplifier HAS no tonality, which lets me choose my music solely on the tonality IT has. That simplifies my choices because I have a concrete goal, and, back to my first point above, I can then discuss my goal and how closely I am approaching it with like-minded people. And, since my stereo system is now "out of the picture", I can concentrate on choosing music I like. (Likewise, when I print color pictures, I can buy a "high-CRI" bulb to view them under, because I know the CRI number will describe how objectively close it is to white. And I can calibrate my printer and screen so they are objectively neutral. And I can rationally discuss the tint of a certain print - or printer - with other people who use high-CRI very white lights to view them. This is much simpler than endlessly looking for "a bulb that looks nice" and trying to figure out how mine compares to theirs.)
3) Especially when inexperienced people are involved, subjectivism leads to extreme unhappiness and loss of income.
(And, yes, I'm targeting tube equipment here
, but it happens with solid state equipment and notably things like cables as well. )
If you have no standard yardstick to measure with, then how do you tell a bargain from a ripoff? If you, personally, happen to think that a $10 table radio sounds good, then we don't have a problem. If some scam artist gets you ta pay him $5000 for something that SOUNDS like a $10 table radio, then "harm has attached" - you got cheated.
4) I also have an especial problem with what I call "subjective objectivism".....
To wit... If you REALLY want to focus on the music, then you WOULD do as I do - and try to find "a straight wire with gain" that didn't alter the sound of the music - so you could hear it as it really is recorded. Picking equipment that "sounds good" rather than equipment that is accurate is NOT "concentrating on the music". It is, instead, becoming part of the production process by choosing equipment that CHANGES the way the music sounds to suit the way YOU like it. It is hypocritical to say "all you really care about is the music", then make a hobby of finding equipment that CHANGES the way the music sounds..... think about it. (Again, I'm not picking on anybody or suggesting that doing so is bad, just that you should be honest about your intentions.)
I'm not going to claim an overwhelming love of music, but I do want to hear what my recordings actually sound like - which means that I need accurate equipment (that "straight wire with gain"). I'm willing to trust the engineer and the musicians enough to do my best to listen to it the way they intended; and, if I don't like it that way, then I'll find something else to listen to. [If, for example, THEY wanted it to have "that classic tube sound", then THEY would have included some tube equipment in the production chain. If not, then who am I to second guess their judgment or intent?]
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On to tubes.....
As I said elsewhere, I am in the interesting position of knowing quite a lot about designing tube equipment, but simply not being especially fond of the way it sounds or the "value proposition" it represents. I'm sure that the following statement will offend a few people.... so I"ll just go ahead and get that part out of the way.... "Live with it, or go to engineering school and learn enough so that you can REALLY judge whether I'm right or not, before arguing with it. Although, in the modern world, good luck finding an engineering school that covers tubes anymore
Stop believing everything you read, or everything that some company who is hoping to get you to buy some overpriced piece of tube equipment tells you. Unless you actually know how to design tube equipment, then you have no basis for judging which parts of the propaganda are true and which ones aren't."
The fact is that much of modern tube equipment is simply badly designed, and it sounds bad (sometimes the two are related, and sometimes coincidental). Beyond that, a lot more of it is reasonably well designed, but specifically designed to sound different from solid state equipment. (You may like it or not, but PLEASE don't fall into the trap of assuming that it sounds anything other than different.) If you don't believe me, find someone who designs tube equipment, and become their FRIEND (convince them you aren't going to buy anything), and they just might admit it to you
If you REALLY want an amplifier that makes 10% THD at 10 watts (because you actually like that distortion), you can get one for $50; you don't need to spend $5000 for one. There is this whole (very expensive) "culture of mysticism" going on with tubes lately. It just appalls me that there are companies out there charging thousands of dollars for amplifiers that are the same (and sound the same) as the amplifiers you would have found in a medium-priced department store console sixty years ago - before the designers moved on to better designs.
Since I'm picking on tubes.....
Single ended triode amps have HUGE drawbacks - and, beyond the mysticism, no technical benefits.
They have limited power and, especially if you limit feedback, they usually have painfully high levels of distortion.
(To sort-of quote a designer "Even if SET triodes really had some sort of magical sound, how could you possibly hear it over 10% THD?")
Any single ended amplifier runs current one way through the output transformer.
They are also required to run Class A (if it isn't obvious why, you need to take some classes).
This means that the transformer saturates way sooner, so an equivalent transformer will make 2 to 5 times more power,
at MUCH lower distortion and noise, when used in a push-pull design instead of single ended (it will run cooler and last longer too).
(Or, alternately, you need to spend about ten times as much on a transformer to get the same performance in SET as
you would have needed in push-pull.)
Because the power-supply noise mostly cancels out in push-pull, a SET amp needs a MUCH larger and more expensive
power supply to match the performance of an equivalent push-pull design.
These are the main reasons why push-pull amplifiers replaced SETs a long time ago.
[It IS true that the distortion produced by a SET amplifier will be mostly "benign" second harmonic distortion, but the relationship there has been skewed as well. An equivalent push-pull amplifier will make LESS "nasty" third harmonic distortion than an equivalent SET amplifier. If you don't notice it with the SET amp, the reason will be that it is buried under a huge amount of second harmonic distortion - which the push-pull amp doesn't make.]
Please, remember, I have no argument with someone who WANTS that distortion.
That is your subjective choice.
My concern is for the poor guy who buys an expensive tube amp based on false claims and bogus expectations.
I would suggest that, if someone WANTS a good tube amp, they should consider a nice used (refurbished) MacIntosh - they probably had the best transformers EVER (their unity coupled design is actually somewhat unique and has actual benefits). The old Eicos are pretty good as well. Both will probably need a rebuild since the electrolytic capacitors go bad. Otherwise, read a lot of reviews and avoid cheap and unknown brands. Transformers, in order to work well, should be rather heavy. Don't trust a 300 watt tube amp that weighs less than about 60 pounds. Tube amps are pretty simple to design, but they can be designed badly - and the result will be crummy sound, high distortion, and very short tube life. Not all tube amps are even good, let alone very good - even by tube amp standards.
If anyone REALLY wants tips about what to look for in a good tube design, PM me and I'll post it somewhere (good design hasn't changed).
(But don't ask me about specific modern brands; I only know a few because I haven't bothered to keep up.)