Fuses for CH P?

[engadin]

I have recently acquired L1, X1, A1.5.
They are still in their boxes, set up will be November and December, as I am most of my time abroad now.

I do like SR master fuses. They are in my Sean Jacobs mini arc 6 dc4, in my Taiko Extreme, even in my REL sub.
There are some remarks found in SR recommendations and reviews not to overdo it with SR master fuses.
To my consternation L1, X1 and A1.5 will need five fuses…

As I have learned in this forum, even when using the X1, power cord to L1 is still relevant for sound.
So I am afraid all of these 5 fuses make a difference. Sigh.

What are your experiences with CH P and fuses, your recommendations?

Thx a lot in advance for your input!

 

[sbnx]

I have experimented with fuses in CH. I have an L10 and a C1.2 and T1. Each CH piece has two fuses. A main fuse and a stand by fuse. All of the fuses matter. But I would estimate the main fuse is about 75-80% of the upgrade.

I ended up using QSA fuses. I experimented with Yellow, Violet and Red/black. The Yellow fuse increases the resolution. Still has the primary CH sound. The yellow fuse is about $200 ea. so I consider spending this $400 per box as pretty much a no-brainer. But, the Violet brings some emotion to the table. I cosider the Violet to be the sweetspot of QSA fuses. It really adds something special to the CH. The Violet is $700. You can do a Violet in the main and yellow in the standby for under $1000 per box and this is quite the upgrade in sound quality. With red you simply get more of what Violet gives you. Lower noise and more dynamics. Then we have red/black. Again, lower noise, more decay, more separaton, more everything. I ended up going red/black on the Mains and Violet on the standby. This is just so good. The price is crazy. The red/black is about $3k so this combo is $3700 per box.

CH gear is so responsive to everything you do to it. I use RevOpods for the footers, HRS damping plate on top of each box, A CAD USB Ground control in the empty slot on the back and a Chord Company RJ45 Ground Aray in any empty ethernet ports. As good as CH already is, if you do all of these things to lower the noise floor even further it is amazing the musicality that can be extracted from these boxes.

Yes, the powercord to the L1 matters as well as the X1. You can also get an upgraded umbiblical from Nordost between the L1 and X1.

 

[engadin]

Sigh.

Dear sbnx,
your answer is what I was afraid of.
I had already achieved this unfortunate state of “whatever you, it will be audible” with my vintage JRDG amps.
Several folks whose judgment I do trust have been enthusiastic about QSA.
Up to now I had been successful avoiding their stuff.
Some of us, me included, aren’t millionaires but simply are irresponsible

Reading too much Gy8 made me already buy a CAD usb control.

Did you compare QSA with SR master? Audio Magic?

Thx for your input!

 

[sbnx]

I did not try the audio magic. There are too many different aftermarket fuse brands to try them all. I don't know how much effort you want to put into finding the "perfect" fuse. All I can share is what happens as you move up the QSA line of fuses. You could get a yellow and a violet and a SR master and see which one you like better.

 

[engadin]

True.
Too many options.

That is why I asked for combinations already tried.
Thank you once again!

 

[Iamrael]

Maybe consider the Swiss Digital Fuse Box.