Introduction of my new Antipodes K50 Music Server

[Tuckia]

The K50 is supplied with 2 x 2 amp fast blow fuses or 2 x 1 amp slow blow depending on country.
While on demo the K30 blew one fuse of the two.
Hope that helps.
Ceramic type sound better IMO if your purchasing spares.

Clive, thanks for the clarification on the fuse specification. Mine was marked LF T H1A 250VP. LF is The manufacture’s logo - Littelfuse, not F for Fast. T is slow blow. H is ceramic. Regardless, they failed quickly.

My file transfer process and power cord trials required more than usual power cycles. This unit does not like to be abruptly disconnected from power. The manual warns against this.

I also learned that the K50 sound responds significantly to power cord changes. Can’t skimp here.

From the Head Fi forum, I realize you’ve had your K50 longer than most. How long do you think it took to break in and sound it’s best?

 

[kennyb123]

Clive, thanks for the clarification on the fuse specification. Mine was marked LF T H1A 250VP. LF is The manufacture’s logo - Littelfuse, not F for Fast. T is slow blow. H is ceramic. Regardless, they failed quickly.

My file transfer process and power cord trials required more than usual power cycles. This unit does not like to be abruptly disconnected from power. The manual warns against this.

I also learned that the K50 sound responds significantly to power cord changes. Can’t skimp here.

It’s the small fuse (0.75”), correct?

Can you share what you discovered with power cords? I’m using a Shunyata Alpha HC and wasn’t really planning to try others. But...

 

[shakti]

I tried heavy copper, like NBS Black Label MKI, thin copper like Wireworld Eclipse. compared to silver/copper hybrid and pure silver. Connected to Brinkmann Nyquist I preferred the Wireworld Silver/Copper Hybrid Silver Eclipse. Connected to Lampizator Baltic 3 I prefer both units connected with Wireworld pure silver chord, the platinum.
On Nyquist I used the wireworld pure silver AES/EBU, but on Baltic 3 I prefer the NBS AES/EBU Black Label I.

I would say, that K50 responds to powerchords and to digital wires, depending on the DAC in use.

I have not tried different fuses, may be one of the steps I have to look for.

In principle I prefer original fuses for liability purposes, Mostly I only change direction to identify the preferred way

 

[Tuckia]

It’s the small fuse (0.75”), correct?

Can you share what you discovered with power cords? I’m using a Shunyata Alpha HC and wasn’t really planning to try others. But...

They measure 0.199” x 0.774”, aka 3/4”.

I’ve tried my Wywires Platinum, an old Shunyata I’ve had laying around for years, and a Zenwave PSR-14 (Silver). The Zenwave wins by a mile, as it should considering the cost. It also works very well on the Pacific dac. So the Zenwave is a keeper and I bought one. But I need another so I have requested a Zenwave PCR-14 (copper) demo. Not sure which will end up where, or which type. But It’s a lot about system synergy too.

Your Shunyata is a pretty good cable, so if it fits the preferred sound of your system, why change.

Running my former EX/CX, I found the EX as player responded to the power cord; but the CX as server did not. I guess the closer to the analog end of things the more it matters? The analog waveform representing the digital data to the dac must be affected. I’m sure the amount of RFI entering the server via the PC matters too.

 

[kennyb123]

This unit does not like to be abruptly disconnected from power. The manual warns against this.

Hopefully the one upside of the K30 is that it isn’t as apt to blow fuses. Here in the Pacific Northwest power outages occur a few times a year. If the same fuse rating is found in the K30 as the K50, I’m guessing blown fuses would be less of a risk with the single power supply vs the three in the K50. The surge when powering up might be a third of what the K50 experiences.

Even so, I’m not sure I’d want to gamble on a pair of Orange fuses. The Orange fuses brought a more organic sound to each of my components. It’s likely it would so the same for my K30. I’d hate to have to replace blown Orange fuses.

Ken

 

[kennyb123]

They measure 0.199” x 0.774”, aka 3/4”.

I’ve tried my Wywires Platinum, an old Shunyata I’ve had laying around for years, and a Zenwave PSR-14 (Silver). The Zenwave wins by a mile, as it should considering the cost. It also works very well on the Pacific dac. So the Zenwave is a keeper and I bought one. But I need another so I have requested a Zenwave PCR-14 (copper) demo. Not sure which will end up where, or which type. But It’s a lot about system synergy too.

Your Shunyata is a pretty good cable, so if it fits the preferred sound of your system, why change.

Running my former EX/CX, I found the EX as player responded to the power cord; but the CX as server did not. I guess the closer to the analog end of things the more it matters? The analog waveform representing the digital data to the dac must be affected. I’m sure the amount of RFI entering the server via the PC matters too.

Thanks for confirming the fuse size. I think I might have a Blue fuse leftover from an upgrade to Orange that might do the trick.

Why change power cords if it fits? Isn’t that what audiophiles are supposed to do? Haha

Actually all my Alpha HCs have been getting replaced with new Delta v2 cords. The improvement has been quite astonishing. There’s been a significant reduction of grain in the music. The Alpha HC is no slouch in that area but the new Delta takes it further. Interestingly I had moved one of the Alpha HCs to my downstairs system where it’s feeding a Synergistic PowerBlock and just this week swapped in a few more affordable power cords to see if I could get by with less. The harm the Synergistic Red cord allowed to get through could easily be seen. The picture on my LG OLED became grainy and actually had me check to make sure I hadn’t mistaken grabbed an older pair of glasses. Audio quality degraded too. A switch to the Shunyata Venom V12 NR improved things, but the magic didn’t return until the Alpha HC was put back in. These darn cords really matter, don’t they. So maybe on day I’ll see how the K30 responds to a v2 power cord from Shunyata.

That your CX in that arrangement didn’t respond to power cords as did the EX really speaks to the strength of the two-tier model, which is to isolate the DAC from the noisier server.

 

[Tuckia]

Thanks for confirming the fuse size. I think I might have a Blue fuse leftover from an upgrade to Orange that might do the trick.

Why change power cords if it fits? Isn’t that what audiophiles are supposed to do? Haha

Actually all my Alpha HCs have been getting replaced with new Delta v2 cords. The improvement has been quite astonishing. There’s been a significant reduction of grain in the music. The Alpha HC is no slouch in that area but the new Delta takes it further. Interestingly I had moved one of the Alpha HCs to my downstairs system where it’s feeding a Synergistic PowerBlock and just this week swapped in a few more affordable power cords to see if I could get by with less. The harm the Synergistic Red cord allowed to get through could easily be seen. The picture on my LG OLED became grainy and actually had me check to make sure I hadn’t mistaken grabbed an older pair of glasses. Audio quality degraded too. A switch to the Shunyata Venom V12 NR improved things, but the magic didn’t return until the Alpha HC was put back in. These darn cords really matter, don’t they. So maybe on day I’ll see how the K30 responds to a v2 power cord from Shunyata.

That your CX in that arrangement didn’t respond to power cords as did the EX really speaks to the strength of the two-tier model, which is to isolate the DAC from the noisier server.

I‘m thinking I should master the ceramic fuses before I graduate to the good stuff. I’ll spend $150 on a good bottle of wine instead. The result is the same In the end.

Whenever I read comments about the diminishing returns pursuing the last 1 or 2% in this hobby, I muse in disagreement. The affects of many things cannot be heard well until you reach a certain level. For me it’s more like a bouquet of flowers opening up rather than a narrowing road. Power cords fall into this category of transitory components. Their function changes along the path. Cheap cords are a mask for sins, expensive cords expose them. They all carry a certain character of their own to bring to the game. In short, it’s too complicated to make cable recommendations. Too many variables. Some may represent better value than average when considering the aggregate of their performance and therefore merit consideration, if not recommendation. But they make a difference for sure. I haven’t tried cords on my OLED or QLED in fear that they would matter.

Another dilema that has challenged me is the whole K30 vs. K50 and USB vs. spdif debate. I went with the K50 because it covered all the bases, but at a price. At the moment I’m getting better results with USB into the Pacific. If I would have gone with the K30, which you seem pretty happy with, I could have bought another $$$ power cord and a pile of fuses with the difference. We can speculate, don’t know till you try.

 

[kennyb123]

Another dilema that has challenged me is the whole K30 vs. K50 and USB vs. spdif debate. I went with the K50 because it covered all the bases, but at a price. At the moment I’m getting better results with USB into the Pacific. If I would have gone with the K30, which you seem pretty happy with, I could have bought another $$$ power cord and a pile of fuses with the difference. We can speculate, don’t know till you try.

The Shunyata Omega USB was factored into my decision to go with the K30 instead of the K50. It’s a very special cable. I was able to upgrade from the Sigma, which was insanely good (do not audition one of these unless you are willing to part with funds). The Omega took all the strengths of the Sigma and added to clarity that’s mind-blowing - bringing you closer to believing you are in the same room as the musicians. The K30 plus the Omega USB make a strong case for the “source first” argument. I‘m sure the K50 does as well.

 

[Tuckia]

Source first makes sense to me. My first audiophile moment occurred because of a turntable, so I get it. Thanks for sharing, now I have to hear the Omega. I just spent $1k on an spdif cable. Oh well. My FTA is no slouch though.

I’ll return the favor by explaining my power cords. Disclaimer, I have a relationship with Zenwave. I pay Dave list price and 3 weeks later he sends me products in a discrete brown box that my wife can’t identify.

Shunyata 1990’s purple thing. Mid bass hump, rolled off highs, gritty, low res midrange. I hate this thing but has no value so hangs around like a low paid employee that doesn’t do anything well.

Wywires Platinum Digital. A significant step up. Good resolution and width/depth of stage. It’s downfall in comparison is a busy-ness of sound in the upper midrange. Something is getting through. This is not a good attribute for a digital source cable. Also, the bass is weak, but does have some definition.

Zenwave PSR-14. High resolution but with a tranquil, palpable calm. Excellent low bass energy, dynamics, and definition. Beautiful HF extension. Exceptional stage width, depth, and height. Transparent, but in a good way. Some silver cables induce fatigue. This one does not. It doesn’t over-do the mid bass. This may be a pro or con. I will find out if more of this is better, or too much. For me this is an excellent digital source PC. I requested this demo as an afterthought and had to buy it because I couldn’t unhear it. Not cheap, but worth it.

I know someone with a bit more expensive system than mine who is going all in on Shunyata. It’s good to have options I guess.

 

[kennyb123]

Zenwave PSR-14. High resolution but with a tranquil, palpable calm. Excellent low bass energy, dynamics, and definition. Beautiful HF extension. Exceptional stage width, depth, and height. Transparent, but in a good way. Some silver cables induce fatigue. This one does not. It doesn’t over-do the mid bass. This may be a pro or con. I will find out if more of this is better, or too much. For me this is an excellent digital source PC. I requested this demo as an afterthought and had to buy it because I couldn’t unhear it. Not cheap, but worth it.

I’ve only ever heard good things about Zenwave’s products. And while the cord you mentioned isn’t cheap, it’s my understanding that you’d have to spend a lot more to beat it.

Silver done right can be magical. It sounds like you are in a great place

 

[sbo6]

WRT ROON playback versus HQplayer I concur that HQplayer is clearly better. Everything sounds a tad smeared and fuller (not necessarily in a good way). Also, high frequency instruments like symbols are slightly less discerning with ROON + HQP as the back end. ROON solo is a further step in the wrong direction.

Also, the best sound I've heard from HQplayer is avoiding ROON entirely and installing HQplayer onto a RAM drive and copying your songs of choice also onto the same RAM drive and playing the RAM songs via HQplayer. Simply fantastic.

 

[treitz3]

I think the OP is an advertising rep and using this site to sell its products.

Good morning, ladies and gentlemen of the forum. The admin team has investigated this claim and the facts do not substantiate the claim with this one.

In case anyone missed this informative post about this very subject, I am offering it to you once again - https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...june-2019-germany-western-cologne-area.27905/

Moving forward, it may be better to just notify the admin team when you suspect someone is violating the TOS of the WBF. We will handle it. That way, slander/defamation doesn't come into play. Thanks,

Tom

 

[Tuckia]

I’ve only ever heard good things about Zenwave’s products. And while the cord you mentioned isn’t cheap, it’s my understanding that you’d have to spend a lot more to beat it.

Silver done right can be magical. It sounds like you are in a great place

I’d say it merits consideration for those who want to hear more of what their components can do. I’m sure there are many other options that are direct competitors to the PSR. Comparing it to the stepping stone cords demonstrates the difference what a good, and often expensive, power cord can make. Auditions are just about mandatory, unless you really like playing roulette. Zenwave is one of the companies that participates in this. I’ve liked everything he has sent me so far.

 

[thedudeabides]

Good morning, ladies and gentlemen of the forum. The admin team has investigated this claim and the facts do not substantiate the claim with this one.

In case anyone missed this informative post about this very subject, I am offering it to you once again - https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...june-2019-germany-western-cologne-area.27905/

Moving forward, it may be better to just notify the admin team when you suspect someone is violating the TOS of the WBF. We will handle it. That way, slander/defamation doesn't come into play. Thanks,

Tom

Thank you for the clarification Tom. I meant no slander or defamation. Merely an observation on my part. I apologize for any inconvenience I may have caused.

 

[kennyb123]

Hopefully the one upside of the K30 is that it isn’t as apt to blow fuses. Here in the Pacific Northwest power outages occur a few times a year. If the same fuse rating is found in the K30 as the K50, I’m guessing blown fuses would be less of a risk with the single power supply vs the three in the K50. The surge when powering up might be a third of what the K50 experiences.

Power went out here for only a few minutes. No harm to my K30.

 

[clive101]

Clive, thanks for the clarification on the fuse specification. Mine was marked LF T H1A 250VP. LF is The manufacture’s logo - Littelfuse, not F for Fast. T is slow blow. H is ceramic. Regardless, they failed quickly.

My file transfer process and power cord trials required more than usual power cycles. This unit does not like to be abruptly disconnected from power. The manual warns against this.

I also learned that the K50 sound responds significantly to power cord changes. Can’t skimp here.

From the Head Fi forum, I realize you’ve had your K50 longer than most. How long do you think it took to break in and sound it’s best?

I left on the K50 on playing 24 / 7 for around 2/3 weeks when it started to show a good steady improvement. After several months I think it has become more laid back.

Both fuses blew again today.

 

[sbnx]

I left on the K50 on playing 24 / 7 for around 2/3 weeks when it started to show a good steady improvement. After several months I think it has become more laid back.

Both fuses blew again today.

Very unusual that you are blowing fuses. I have had my K50 since September '20 and not blown any fuses. I have had a couple times where I lost power (without the unit in standby) and have powered down the unit a few times (after putting it into standby). Maybe need to contact tech support.

 

[Pb Blimp]

I left on the K50 on playing 24 / 7 for around 2/3 weeks when it started to show a good steady improvement. After several months I think it has become more laid back.

Both fuses blew again today.

This news about fuses blowing is very disturbing. Please keep us posted as to why this keeps occurring. I recently change my order to a K50 from a K40 and ordered the USB Pro for my MSB Reference. I decided to compare all 3 outputs on the K50 to the MSB to select which I prefer. Hearing this kind of report about fuses blowing on what is alleged to be a true SOTA device is not cool.

 

[clive101]

Two times in a few months.
Tech support informed and new fuses on the way.
But it cannot continue, never had fuses blowing on a regular basis in any product I have owned.

 

[Pb Blimp]

Two times in a few months.
Tech support informed and new fuses on the way.
But it cannot continue, never had fuses blowing on a regular basis in any product I have owned.

If fuses which are rated at the proper spec for the unit are blowing the answer is not more new fuses. Something is wrong.