45mm diameter, 1.5mm and 2mm thicknesses
@kozzmo what color is your Stabi R? It looks different in your pic than the standard silver.
45mm diameter, 1.5mm and 2mm thicknesses
Unless he has a custom color, @kozzmo's 'table in post #5 is black, but the contrast in his photo is off so it appears to have more of a charcoal tone.@kozzmo what color is your Stabi R? It looks different in your pic than the standard silver.
standard black@kozzmo what color is your Stabi R? It looks different in your pic than the standard silver.
The “sagging top plate”, is this the chassis? If so, yep. The other issue, with the 301 anyway, is the platter, which is cast. It needs balancing and contributes to the sounds from the grooves as well.A garrard on wood also sounds nothing like one on slate. The slate really gave a super solid foundation to the presentation. One that I never heard with a wood plinth. I have had 3 garrards over a 20 plus year period. One thing I could never escape with any garrard I've had or have heard in other systems is the forward nature of it. That forward nature is what everyone loves about them, myself included. But sometimes I found that forward driving thing a bit tedious. Sometimes. Honestly I moved on for other reasons namely upkeep. I am no longer in the "mood" for DIY. I have done DIY for a very very long time. The garrard is something that needs tending to. Once you get it right its glorious but after a few years the idler starts to wear, or the spings start to sag or the motor coils start to burn up...oh and then theres the sagging top plate that doesn't allow one to level a tonearm to the platter correctly.....its always something and that I am personally no longer in the mood to deal with.
I've had a completely different experience with turntables. I've listened to several Garrard 301s and 401s, owned a Thorens TD-124 and a Lenco L-70, and spent time tweaking and cleaning them. I've also owned various direct drives, with the most notable being the Technics SL-1000 mkII fitted with the EPA 100 titanium tonearm. The ruby bearings on the tonearm are in perfect condition, and I must say, operating it feels incredibly smooth, likely due to those low-friction ruby bearings. I've also heard every EMT turntable, including the direct-drive 948.I have never owned a belt drive turntable, but have heard a few and prefer the sound of my idler. Yes, I prefer the speed of attack the idler gives that the belt drive doesn’t but, perhaps oddly, do not like the overly sharp on/off attack I hear from CD’s so if you too don’t like the sound of CDs because of that sharp attack then I understand, but am not as sensitive to it.
As said, I never owned a belt drive so will happily defer to your greater experience.I've had a completely different experience with turntables. I've listened to several Garrard 301s and 401s, owned a Thorens TD-124 and a Lenco L-70, and spent time tweaking and cleaning them. I've also owned various direct drives, with the most notable being the Technics SL-1000 mkII fitted with the EPA 100 titanium tonearm. The ruby bearings on the tonearm are in perfect condition, and I must say, operating it feels incredibly smooth, likely due to those low-friction ruby bearings. I've also heard every EMT turntable, including the direct-drive 948.
From my perspective, idler turntables have a blunt character—pleasant to listen to and compatible with most genres, but they don’t truly dig into the details in the grooves. They sound good but lack the dynamics and detail I look for. Among idlers, EMT stands out as the best, and I find Lenco to have more potential than Garrard and Thorens. There’s a lot of praise for the Garrard 301, but when people start discussing them, it’s clear that almost everything except the plinth has been replaced. Can we still call it a Garrard at that point? I don’t think so. If it's such a great turntable, why does it need almost everything replaced? In my opinion, there’s a lot of hype keeping the Garrard name alive.
In the end, none of these compare to my long-time reference, the La Platine Verdier, which is a belt drive. I admit Verdier is a DIY/enthusiast’s turntable and requires fine-tuning. However, in my experience, as well as to top-dollar belt drives, the Verdier—and some other low-cost alternatives—surpasses any of the idlers or direct drives in terms of attack, detail, and dynamics. If it had been the opposite I would keep listening Thorens TD-124 or Technics SL-1000 but I keep listening Verdier. I’ve never been a SPU guy maybe that’s the reason and YMMV.
Whatever floats your boat.My delight with the Garrard is exactly that they are owner-serviceable and one can make a fairly decent turntable out of them by addressing the issues I mentioned in my first paragraph above
No, it doesn’t. I have experienced zero issues regarding the magnetic suspension. The key point and success of Verdier lies under the implementation of magnetic suspension. Implementation is very important on final sound and for preventing interference.rd) but worried that the magnetic suspension would adversely affect the magnets in the pickups (I guess it doesn’t)?
It depends where you place the motor unit. If you want it to slip certainly it can.Does the belt stretch/slip?
I highly doubt that after passing away of J.C. Verdier but there are other great high mass belt drives around.Are they still being made?
So, in respect to this thread, does the kuzma Stabi R, taking into consideration the advantages and disadvantages of each platform, perform overall better than “modified” Garrards? How does it compare to other belt-drives like the Linn?Whatever floats your boat.
No, it doesn’t. I have experienced zero issues regarding the magnetic suspension. The key point and success of Verdier lies under the implementation of magnetic suspension. Implementation is very important on final sound and for preventing interference.
It depends where you place the motor unit. If you want it to slip certainly it can.
I highly doubt that after passing away of J.C. Verdier but there are other great high mass belt drives around.
Although I haven’t heard them side by side I still think it (Stabi R) does depending on how much Garrard is modified.So, in respect to this thread, does the kuzma Stabi R perform better than “modified” Garrards?
I think the Stabi R is a good compromise turntable. It has great pace and drive and dynamics but not as great as a good modified idler. It also does finer details and air that an idler can't match...so in my eyes its a real good compromise..plus there is almost zero upkeep in the long run.So, in respect to this thread, does the kuzma Stabi R, taking into consideration the advantages and disadvantages of each platform, perform overall better than “modified” Garrards? How does it compare to other belt-drives like the Linn?
I've long held that as design and execution of turntables improves, that the distinction between drive types diminishes. Nothing that I've done in development to this point has convinced me otherwise.I think the Stabi R is a good compromise turntable. It has great pace and drive and dynamics but not as great as a good modified idler. It also does finer details and air that an idler can't match...so in my eyes its a real good compromise..plus there is almost zero upkeep in the long run.
Interesting opinion Thom. If you had to work within a budget of, say, $30,000 (that's just a number I picked out of thin air), how much of that budget would you allocate to the table, arm, cartridge and isolation?I've long held that as design and execution of turntables improves, that the distinction between drive types diminishes. Nothing that I've done in development to this point has convinced me otherwise.
... Thom
Thanks for the inputThe Kuzma is current tech. The Garrard 301/401 are museum pieces.
My dad had a Garrad 301 back in the mid-1960's...lol
Very strange. Usually, we blame the cleaning lady for strange occurrences relating to our vinyl rig ;-)I had an odd occurrence with my 4Pt11. I had the dealer install the Hana Unami Blue and it sounded great. Fast forward until about a month ago and I had the impression the sound had become less involved, with decreased dynamics. I checked the VTA and VTF and all was good. Noticed the cartridge body seemed ever so slightly unparallel to the headshell, so I broke out my alignment protractor and what do you know…it was out of alignment with the cartridge not parallel. Not sure how it happened as the mounting screws were tightened on the body.
Fiddled to realign it, and voila, the sound snapped into focus and dynamics returned. Readjusted VTA and VTF and all is good.
I wonder what could’ve caused the cartridge body to rotate out of alignment?