Lampizator Baltic 4

… I actually listened to it against an Audio Note 2.1x Signature and ended up liking the Audio Note better… none the less the Lampizator sounded great… just felt that Audio Note was better for more rock orientated music…
 
Hi folks. First post here. Has anyone tried Lin Lai 6SN7s in the Baltic-4?
Hello! Yes. Mine was delivered with them. Not bad tubes but much better with Melz 1578 and even better then that is my absolute favorite Ray tubes 6sn7 Reserve which I can highly recommend! But at least as important is the rectifier tube! I have tried several and one of the favorites is EML 274B. But matched with the Ray 6sn7 I didn’t find the 12bh7 to be a perfect match.
 
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Hello JP and thank you! Currently running the stock tubes on B4. Interesting about the Ray Reserves. I’ll have to add those to the mix. I’ve a pair of Psvave Art 6SN7s and may try those as I wait for the others arrive. Funny you also mentioned the EML 247B as I was thinking of trying that rectifier too. What did you end up using in place of the 12BH7s?

I’m happy with the B4 stock, but thought it was time to experiment with some different tubes. How would you characterize the sound signature of where your B4 was and where it is after your changes?
 
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I contacted Rob at Lampizator NA, Destination Sound Group, and he recommended the tubes he had in his Baltic 4 DAC: Sophia Electric Aqua 274B rectifier, Shuguang Natural Sound series 12AU7-T, and Shuguang Black Treasure CV181. I tried them and have been very happy with the sound.
 
Hello JP and thank you! Currently running the stock tubes on B4. Interesting about the Ray Reserves. I’ll have to add those to the mix. I’ve a pair of Psvave Art 6SN7s and may try those as I wait for the others arrive. Funny you also mentioned the EML 247B as I was thinking of trying that rectifier too. What did you end up using in place of the 12BH7s?

I’m happy with the B4 stock, but thought it was time to experiment with some different tubes. How would you characterize the sound signature of where your B4 was and where it is after your changes?
It seams like the Baltic 4 is delivered with different stock tubes. Mine were Shuguang rectifier, Linlai 6sn7 and Electro Harmonix 12BH7. I had the opportunity the borrow some a decent amount of tubes from a friend and started with replacing the rectifier with the EML. Huge difference in Holography. Wider deeper soundstage with nice isolated details and deep tight bass! Then I put in the Ray tubes. Even more of everything. But with that combination the 12bh7 was a little too much. A little too much energy in the top. Replaced
them with Ray 12au7 which worked fine but took away some body in the sound. I think that a pair of really nice 12au7 would add that. I didn’t have any so
I added a pair of Ecc40 Nos from the 50’s and that did the trick. Fantastic in everything but maybe a little little lost in width of the soundstage. I tried 6 different rectifier among the the Sophia 274B mesh but the EML was the one that worked the best with all kind of music. Maybe I will experiment with other tubes on the 12bh7 position but Ray 6sn7 Reserve and EML 274B are definitely my keepers.
 
I contacted Rob at Lampizator NA, Destination Sound Group, and he recommended the tubes he had in his Baltic 4 DAC: Sophia Electric Aqua 274B rectifier, Shuguang Natural Sound series 12AU7-T, and Shuguang Black Treasure CV181. I tried them and have been very happy with the sound.
Thank you Dennis! This is great info too. Good to know this set of tubes has the approval of Rob @ Lampi. Glad they worked well for you. What do you like about the sound they've brought?
 
It seams like the Baltic 4 is delivered with different stock tubes. Mine were Shuguang rectifier, Linlai 6sn7 and Electro Harmonix 12BH7. I had the opportunity the borrow some a decent amount of tubes from a friend and started with replacing the rectifier with the EML. Huge difference in Holography. Wider deeper soundstage with nice isolated details and deep tight bass! Then I put in the Ray tubes. Even more of everything. But with that combination the 12bh7 was a little too much. A little too much energy in the top. Replaced
them with Ray 12au7 which worked fine but took away some body in the sound. I think that a pair of really nice 12au7 would add that. I didn’t have any so
I added a pair of Ecc40 Nos from the 50’s and that did the trick. Fantastic in everything but maybe a little little lost in width of the soundstage. I tried 6 different rectifier among the the Sophia 274B mesh but the EML was the one that worked the best with all kind of music. Maybe I will experiment with other tubes on the 12bh7 position but Ray 6sn7 Reserve and EML 274B are definitely my keepers.
Yes, It looks like they ship with what they have in inventory.

My B4 was "pre-owned" and the stock tubes it came with were:
- 1x RCA JAN CRC-5R4-GY
- 2x Psvane 6SN7-BE
- 2x Westinghouse 12BH7A

Thanks for the breakdown in the difference each tube type made. I'm particularly intrigued by how much the EML made.
 
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Thank you Dennis! This is great info too. Good to know this set of tubes has the approval of Rob @ Lampi. Glad they worked well for you. What do you like about the sound they've brought?
I think this tube set with the Baltic has really good soundstage and imaging. The midrange is not bright and the vocals on good recordings are very life like. I now listen to more digital than vinyl.
 
Hi all. Not use to posting so I apologize if this the wrong spot. I'm wondering if any Baltic 4 (or any Lampizator) owners are using after market vibration control footers. I am considering Isoacoustic Gaia IIIs. I am using them to good effect under my tubed pre (Mcintosh C1100 and Oreas under Mcintosh MC275.
 
Hi all. Not use to posting so I apologize if this the wrong spot. I'm wondering if any Baltic 4 (or any Lampizator) owners are using after market vibration control footers. I am considering Isoacoustic Gaia IIIs. I am using them to good effect under my tubed pre (Mcintosh C1100 and Oreas under Mcintosh MC275.
You're right it is off topic, but I use Stack Auvas under my Pacific and highly recommend them. I think they're better than the Isoacoustic personally. Now back on topic....
 
Hi all. Not use to posting so I apologize if this the wrong spot. I'm wondering if any Baltic 4 (or any Lampizator) owners are using after market vibration control footers. I am considering Isoacoustic Gaia IIIs. I am using them to good effect under my tubed pre (Mcintosh C1100 and Oreas under Mcintosh MC275.
Why would you think you need that?

Is the DAC in the line of fire of your speakers?
 
Hello! Yes. Mine was delivered with them. Not bad tubes but much better with Melz 1578 and even better then that is my absolute favorite Ray tubes 6sn7 Reserve which I can highly recommend!
I find this interesting. Which production year are your Melz? While I don’t own any personally I’ve read there are definitely years to find and years to avoid. Placing the new Reserve tubes above the Melz is a first though.
 
Hi all. Not use to posting so I apologize if this the wrong spot. I'm wondering if any Baltic 4 (or any Lampizator) owners are using after market vibration control footers. I am considering Isoacoustic Gaia IIIs. I am using them to good effect under my tubed pre (Mcintosh C1100 and Oreas under Mcintosh MC275.
I don't know if the Gaia's are designed for components, but I have experimented with a few different footers under my Baltic 3 and Baltic 4 with notable improvements over the stock rubber feet. Right now, my preferrence is for the Townshend Isopods. I've alo used DIY rollerblocks and Nordost Sort Kones.
 
I have experimented with a few different footers under my Baltic 3 and Baltic 4 with notable improvements over the stock rubber feet.

Hi Agent86,

Please tell us in detail the improvements you found with different footers over the stock rubber feet.

Is your Baltic 4 in the line of fire of your loudspeakers?
 
Hi Agent86,

Please tell us in detail the improvements you found with different footers over the stock rubber feet.

Is your Baltic 4 in the line of fire of your loudspeakers?

Hi Ron,

Yes, I have a rear-firing Verity speaker about 18 inches in front of the B4, so the DAC is certainly in a vulnerable spot That said, I've found signific changes in the DAC's performance when using different footers regardless of speaker placement. I simply quote the the following colorful opinion that Lukasz includes in every one of his user manuals:

Please use good shelf for the DAC. Do not place it on speakers, subs, or even on transports or amps. Again - tubes hate vibrations. If you try the special devices for placement, we feel that: granite or marble is bad (ringing). Cones are just plain ridiculous and stupid. Cones are for uneducated people. Ceramic ball bearing feet are great. Good wood is great if thick. Others - please try.

As to a comparison of footers, I found the Nordost BC Sort Kones to be a little thin-sounding. They are cones, but they do have a ball-bearing, so dooes that make me only partially uneducated??

The DIY roller balls, which I recommend to @Eric_E, are a cheap and easy experiment, as in the following link. Make your own roller bearing isolation system for $16.50 | Stereophile.com I'd use just one furniture cup (and not two) per footer and buy some 1/2" metal ball bearings. It cleans up the muddiness from the original footers but still gives a very relaxed sound.

I've found that the Townshend pods are sort of the goldilocks solution, providing the most detail but without veering into an overly hot top end. That, and paired with an SR Purple Fuse and you've got a very musical improvement over the stock B4.
 
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Hi Ron,

Yes, I have a rear-firing Verity speaker about 18 inches in front of the B4, so the DAC is certainly in a vulnerable spot That said, I've found signific changes in the DAC's performance when using different footers regardless of speaker placement. I simply quote the the following colorful opinion that Lukasz includes in every one of his user manuals:

Please use good shelf for the DAC. Do not place it on speakers, subs, or even on transports or amps. Again - tubes hate vibrations. If you try the special devices for placement, we feel that: granite or marble is bad (ringing). Cones are just plain ridiculous and stupid. Cones are for uneducated people. Ceramic ball bearing feet are great. Good wood is great if thick. Others - please try.

As to a comparison of footers, I found the Nordost BC Sort Kones to be a little thin-sounding. They are cones, but they do have a ball-bearing, so dooes that make me only partially uneducated??

The DIY roller balls, which I recommend to @Eric_E, are a cheap and easy experiment, as in the following link. Make your own roller bearing isolation system for $16.50 | Stereophile.com I'd use just one furniture cup (and not two) per footer and buy some 1/2" metal ball bearings. It cleans up the muddiness from the original footers but still gives a very relaxed sound.

I've found that the Townshend pods are sort of the goldilocks solution, providing the most detail but without veering into an overly hot top end. That, and paired with an SR Purple Fuse and you've got a very musical improvement over the stock B4.
Thank you very much for this very detailed and helpful reply!
 
You're right it is off topic, but I use Stack Auvas under my Pacific and highly recommend them. I think they're better than the Isoacoustic personally. Now back on topic....
I don't find this at all off topic.

The Lampi B4 is the topic and Eric_E asks about user experiences regarding after market feet for the B4.
Bang on topic I would say.
 
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Why would you think you need that?

Is the DAC in the line of fire of your speakers?
Ron- my dac sits on a maple rack between the speakers and about 18 in behind the front plane. I'm not as concerned about speaker vibration as I am about the dac's self-induced vibrations.

When I put the Isoacoustic Gaias on my tube pre, I noticed an immediate improvement in the base. The more I listened, the more I noticed in the music. Triangles and cymbals were more pronounced and I found myself increasing the volume without losing clarity.

Plus it's fun to tweak.
 

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