Thats a good question - Norm told me that 45 and 46 are quite similar (or maybe they are not)..
Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread
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https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_46.html
Use in low switch position like 45 in GG1 and below.
Will ruin a bith hotter than type 45 tune:
https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_45.html
Both are 2.5v off central point set 5v heater element and 46 has a bit more amps.
For GG2 and Pac, I would use the 45 setting.
Use in low switch position like 45 in GG1 and below.
Will ruin a bith hotter than type 45 tune:
https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_45.html
Both are 2.5v off central point set 5v heater element and 46 has a bit more amps.
For GG2 and Pac, I would use the 45 setting.
Going to rename it the Bastardator
Might slip this in too. Never did like the Amanero USB input, always preferring the optical, no matter how much my brain said the USB should be better.
http://jlsounds.com/index.html
Might slip this in too. Never did like the Amanero USB input, always preferring the optical, no matter how much my brain said the USB should be better.
http://jlsounds.com/index.html
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Heater is not the only important operating point. Essentially you move to discreet heater points like GG2/Pac...both of which has 5 such points. Only way it could be better is the ability to dial in any heater voltage you want with the screen reading out the voltage.
Rod Coleman regulator is a current regulator and not a voltage regulator. Check out Emission Labs as to why current regulation is bad for a tube.
BTW, NOS 45s sound best with 3v across the heater though lifetime is reduced a bit. Do not try this with New production tubes.
BTW, NOS 45s sound best with 3v across the heater though lifetime is reduced a bit. Do not try this with New production tubes.
45 is a 2.5v tube with 1.5 amp current, no?
Not sure if any Pac setting is 3v...but is anything kr242 would be closest.
I tend to agree that heater voltage is the control mechanism in a pac.
45 is a 2.5v tube, however I was let in on a secret that NOS tubes sound better at 3v, stunning midrange. Only problem I had was the old tubes didn’t have the frequency extension at either end now demanded by listeners unless you prefer old horns with limited extension.
again, do not try this with modern tubes. You have been warned.
again, do not try this with modern tubes. You have been warned.
Had them all, globes and ST, RCA, Arcturus, Majestic, Cunningham etc and they are glorious in the midrange and perfect imo for old horn Speakers and older music but sadly not for modern music or great speakers.
I sold them all, mainly to Asia.
My tube of choice is solid plate Globe EML45V4 or sp ST EML45V4. Not sure I’d go back to a 4 pin version now.
All this in amps rather than a DAC.
And if you’ve built an amp you’ll know how the mains voltage can swing the operating point of the tube so all these compares between units at different voltages and are any of these tubes actually operating at their best point?
cheers
Blue58
I have compared the KR 45, EML mesh globe anniversary.45, and the EML solid plate globe 45 in Lampi, KR audio preamp, and yamamoto power amp in the same system. You can't use one conclusion for the other. EML globes sound best in Lampi. KR 45 sound best in KR preamp (mesh noise floor goes up too much). In poweramp solid plate EML sounds best.
We've just measured what my Lampi GM 45s see in my DAC and the answer is 2.9 and 3.1V.
I seriously wouldn't worry about it Lampi circuits in older models only get in the region of where they should be.
EML are paranoid about heater voltage accuracy. Makes me wonder if their filaments are a bit shite.
Is this the link you are talking about?
If so I will let people read it and draw their own conclusions.
http://www.emissionlabs.com/Article...urrent-Sources.htm/TB-03-Current-Sources.html
Yes that’s the one plus lots of other info on the site. I drew my own conclusions and decided on accurate 2.5v transformers based on my 242v line and both measured correctly, thankfully, when installed.
My worry is not so much filament failure, I’ve only had one of the early production fail (2005?), but 1) you have two tubes operating at different points and 2) are any of the tube types operating at their ideal performance?
I’ll leave it there as I feel I’m gate crashing a Lampi party.
cheers
At the moment 4V and 5V tubes run not far off. But the power supply is unable to supply enough Watts for some tubes.
It's not good. Hence the rework for this and other reasons.
I would guess older Lampis with the two position switch show a lot more variation in SQ when tube rolling. Which in a way is no bad thing.
It's not good. Hence the rework for this and other reasons.
I would guess older Lampis with the two position switch show a lot more variation in SQ when tube rolling. Which in a way is no bad thing.
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