Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

Older dht lampis have high and low switch. Low is 4.5w and high is 6.5w. Heater fixed at 5v.p, so you may have sone current restrictions on liw setting and current plus volt restrictions for sone tubes on high setting like 6A3 tubes.
 
Any new AD1 feedback, or at least successful setup for evaluation by other members? Looking forward to impressions.
 
Any new AD1 feedback, or at least successful setup for evaluation by other members? Looking forward to impressions.

Me too. Obviously I think it's the best I have but we all know there's no common agreement.

I know it's hard to get hold of but when my Lampi comes back from the menders I will let my least best measuring pair go to a forum member. I have AD1 to UX4 sockets to sell with them.

See earlier in the thread. Trust me although this pair don't measure as new they still sound brilliant.
 
Quick q. Is the RCA JAN 5R4GY (ideally the double mica version) or the Philips 5R4GYS compatible with the GG2? Anyone tried them?

Cheers, Tim
 
All 5V are - so this one as well
 
Norman, the 45 tube was released in 1929, so I am pretty sure that you have a typo in your message. I think that differing heater voltage is not likely to have a great effect on the amount of electrons released by the filament wire. Filament voltage in these tubes is designed to heat the cathode to 1,400-1,800 degrees F to create an electron cloud. This is not going to be greatly affected by a minor difference in voltage. Moreover, I think the DC heating obviates the need for a center tapped tube. What I do try to do is connect the filament pins on my DHT tube sockets to opposite pins so that the + side is on pin 1 on my left side tube and the + is on the right side tube on the right side. I rotate the tubes every 2-4 months between the sockets to avoid any unequal stress on the cathode/filament. I also only use Rod Coleman supplies. It is a great way to stop inrush current and worry about cathode stripping. I keep an 80 tube around that had the cathode strip from the heater just for the fun of it. Little white power pieces floating in the globe.

I have had to say that there is no frequency extension problem with old tubes... Most of the tubes used were designed in such a way that permit them to go well over the sonic level. Your transformer is the issue in an amp, not the tube. In a preamp or a dac, it is often the capacitor. Regardless, those old tubes will push 100KHz without a problem (so we are talking less than 1db down at 100khz). The transformer/cap gives up way before the tube and will create the limiting factor. I am a huge fan of the 01A tube. It was made as a receiving tube in the 20s. I would put it up against anything modern day.

Shawn
 
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Word is early Lampi Ron Coleman experiment has gone well. More work to go though.

I may have to retire from this thread. It's not really going to be a Lampi anymore.
 
Some Lampis have Toroidy transformers in them i.e. Pac for sure.

This is how they are made.

I know this isn't valve related, but it's not worth a thread.

Toroidy on YouTube

Curious machine, huh? Mind yer fingers!!!
 
Just scored these rectifiers so I can run an all Sylvania set up in conjunction with the VT-52s when I feel like it. Thought it was a nice pic so I decided to share.

Well almost apart from the 6N6P.

No DAC though:( Waiting on a custom Toroidy order at the mo.

BTW Golum sell me those Tesla RD27AS I am insanely jealous.

tapatalk_910765062.jpegtapatalk_1366225200.jpeg
 
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About burning in tubes, while burning in a Psvane WE274B replica in a TRP, I was wondering if it matters whether or not music is playing, or just having the dac on sufficient. Is the answer the same for the output tubes, such as KT66s?
 
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About burning in tubes, while burning in a Psvane WE274B replica in a TRP, I was wondering if it matters whether or not music is playing, or just having the dac on sufficient. Is the answer the same for the output tubes, such as KT66s?

Just having the DAC on should do it. TBH I doubt the Psvane will change much.

Burn in for older valves is more of an issue and more necessary if unused for many decades.
 
At the moment 4V and 5V tubes run not far off. But the power supply is unable to supply enough Watts for some tubes.

It's not good. Hence the rework for this and other reasons.

I would guess older Lampis with the two position switch show a lot more variation in SQ when tube rolling. Which in a way is no bad thing.
Justin get a heater circuit like LAMPI does now it’s not complex really and it makes the heater for 5 tubes perfect as in .2 volts correct and never above. It even has a delay voltage at turn on to keep all tubes even lower for a 5 seconds. This allows the filaments to get hot and no cold shot at startup. By the way most all tube circuits have such a delay
 
Just having the DAC on should do it. TBH I doubt the Psvane will change much.

Burn in for older valves is more of an issue and more necessary if unused for many decades.
A recti is cooking at all times as it feeds a capacitor bank but the load on them varies to tubes As they get used. It’s why if you swap a hot recti it keeps playing until or starts to get lower as they discharge. never ever swap output tubes if the dac is on period. This is for many reasons both your dac and system
 
I made a variable heater circuit and the sound varies a bit as the correct voltage gets lower
 
Had them all, globes and ST, RCA, Arcturus, Majestic, Cunningham etc and they are glorious in the midrange and perfect imo for old horn Speakers and older music but sadly not for modern music or great speakers.
I sold them all, mainly to Asia.
My tube of choice is solid plate Globe EML45V4 or sp ST EML45V4. Not sure I’d go back to a 4 pin version now.
All this in amps rather than a DAC.
And if you’ve built an amp you’ll know how the mains voltage can swing the operating point of the tube so all these compares between units at different voltages and are any of these tubes actually operating at their best point?

cheers
Blue58
A better tube heater circuit like lampizator is well regulated in fact it can go to 90 volts and some models up to 230 volts
All is highly regulated inside be assured it’s very well made.
 
45 is a 2.5v tube with 1.5 amp current, no?

Not sure if any Pac setting is 3v...but is anything kr242 would be closest.

I tend to agree that heater voltage is the control mechanism in a pac.
A 45 is 2.5 volts but at 1.5 amps
The 2A3 is 2.5 volts and it’s 2.5 amps a very difficult tube heater :oops:Resistors can be used to obtain a wide variety of heater voyages. output tubes heaters are dc
Recti tube heaters are AC voltage if I recall.
 

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