Swiss Digital Fuse Box Anyone?

Hello and good afternoon to you, Jeff. Thank you very much for your detailed reply. It sounds like it is really checking all of the boxes and then some.

I just got the Veri Fi Snubway in a couple of days ago and plugged it in, but I have been so busy that I have not had the time to crank up the rig and listen for any changes. If it really is that much, it should be easily detectable. In theory, at least. I know full well, these things can be very system dependent sometimes.

Question for those who have multiple SDFB's - is there a preferred spot where the Swiss Digital Fuse Box is most effective? (I.E. - Pre, amp, source, DAC, Clock, etc...?) Or is this the same thing.....situation dependent?

Tom
I have 3 in my systems, one on my X200 tube integrated and have two installed on my mono blocks. All other components have LL 640x Firewall in place.
 
Notice how many SR fuses are up for sale on used market? Check it out! That being said, it’s not a free ride. There has to be an additional male and female ac plug as well as additional wiring. I guess the sluggo in place of fuse out weighs.
 
Notice how many SR fuses are up for sale on used market? Check it out! That being said, it’s not a free ride. There has to be an additional male and female ac plug as well as additional wiring. I guess the sluggo in place of fuse out weighs.
Additional wiring? You can order your SDFB with a pigtail for connection, it is a $99.00 up charge. The key here is the performance, YMMV but the SDFB outperforms any fuses I have auditioned.
 
Notice how many SR fuses are up for sale on used market? Check it out! That being said, it’s not a free ride. There has to be an additional male and female ac plug as well as additional wiring. I guess the sluggo in place of fuse out weighs.



I chose the first -- shows here as "Amazon.com" -- and they just arrived today. Between customer reviews and text, I thought they might be the best (of course, they might be all the same). Mark approved and said others reported good experience. While not all adapters have the same effect on sound, in this case I suspect the sonic effects will be minimal at most.
 
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Question for those who have multiple SDFB's - is there a preferred spot where the Swiss Digital Fuse Box is most effective? (I.E. - Pre, amp, source, DAC, Clock, etc...?) Or is this the same thing.....situation dependent?
Really need to test. I have a SDFB on almost all my components. (Not on the STR-1002) I found the biggest improvement on my amp which also pulls the most current. My suggestion is to start on the highest current draw components.
 
I’ve set up to start as close as possible to the audio source, hence dac and preamp (vs. active speakers). I put it that way because my Oppo 203, which all sound runs through and is digital only, had the fuse bypassed (or removed) during a mod.
 
Hello and good afternoon to you, Jeff. Thank you very much for your detailed reply. It sounds like it is really checking all of the boxes and then some.

I just got the Veri Fi Snubway in a couple of days ago and plugged it in, but I have been so busy that I have not had the time to crank up the rig and listen for any changes. If it really is that much, it should be easily detectable. In theory, at least. I know full well, these things can be very system dependent sometimes.

Question for those who have multiple SDFB's - is there a preferred spot where the Swiss Digital Fuse Box is most effective? (I.E. - Pre, amp, source, DAC, Clock, etc...?) Or is this the same thing.....situation dependent?

Tom
My Snubway is very effective, likely because I have speakers with (Class D) powered woofers in my power distributor . As far as SDFB being systen dependant I have an open mind but it's such a fundamental upgrade to have solid graphene coated slugs replacing fuse's multipart and tiny elements in the AC inlet that I would be quite suprised if it did not help in a given situation- imagine that fuses were not a thing and someone suggested putting one in you AC path- you would think they were nuts when you examined it!
 
Please allow me to make an off topic comment. That SnubWay? Color me very, very impressed.

That said, now I would really like to try the SDFB. I just have to see if the extra weight of the box and pig can be supported properly somehow. Well, that and find out the rating of the fuse. It's not exactly easy to get back there in my rig.

Thanks everyone for answering my query. Much appreciated.

Tom
 
Please allow me to make an off topic comment. That SnubWay? Color me very, very impressed.

That said, now I would really like to try the SDFB. I just have to see if the extra weight of the box and pig can be supported properly somehow. Well, that and find out the rating of the fuse. It's not exactly easy to get back there in my rig.

Thanks everyone for answering my query. Much appreciated.

Tom
Key to the sound from these devices is the Sluggo and the IMHO the Supper Sluggo is the route to go, I coted my Sluggos with Graphene myself. The 'Box" is the safety valve....
 
Key to the sound from these devices is the Sluggo and the IMHO the Supper Sluggo is the route to go, I coted my Sluggos with Graphene myself. The 'Box" is the safety valve....
Do you mind sharing what graphene product you use?
 
Key to the sound from these devices is the Sluggo and the IMHO the Supper Sluggo is the route to go, I coted my Sluggos with Graphene myself. The 'Box" is the safety valve....

It looks to me like it depends on the state of one's system and listening tastes. I just got two SDFB and decided to start with one, using a Super Sluggo in my GG/Poseidon dac. Right off and then again at two hours, I found it dull. It didn't seem like a long burn in would basically change that, so I swapped in the brass, which Mark says is the warmest. To me it is lightly so and more alive, much closer to what I like. Eventually, I'll take a listen to the copper sluggo when they come in. A couple of caveats though: I'm using an AC adapter into the regenerator instead of a pig tail; and burn in aside, a few days ago I received a Puritan Groundmaster City, with which for audition purposes I'm using a cheap Amazon cable into the dac's input port. The grounding sharpened and expanded everything, but turned the sound awfully bright ("pitch elevated"), sometimes pushing unlistenable. The SFDB with brass has largely mitigated that.
 
I think it depends a lot on the state of one's system and listening tastes. I just got two SDFB and decided to start with one, using a Super Sluggo in my GG/Poseidon dac. Right off and then again at two hours, I found it a dull warm. It didn't seem like a long burn in would basically change that, so I swapped in the brass, which Mark says is the warmest. To me it was less so, giving a nice touch and more alive, much closer to what I like. Eventually, I'll take a listen to the copper when they come in. A couple of caveats though: I'm using an AC adapter into the regenerator instead of a pig tail; and burn in aside, a few days ago I received a Puritan Groundmaster City, with which for audition purposes I'm using a cheap Amazon cable into the dac's input port. The grounding sharpened everything, but turned the sound awfully bright ("pitch elevated") and sometimes pushing unlistenable. The SFDB with brass has largely mitigated that.
Okay "and the IMHO the Supper Sluggo is the route to go" In My Honest Opinion. Also my DAC (Less Loss Echo's End R) has no fuse. I only use the SDFB in my PA-10 Mono Blocks and my X200 tube integrated. My Pre- DAC, Innuos and phono all have the LL 640X Firewall installed.
 
Do you mind sharing what graphene product you use?
Yes had a bottle of the NPS Q45T in my junk box and decided to give a whirl and presto....
 
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Yes had a bottle of the NPS Q45T in my junk box and decided to give a whirl and presto....

Exactly what I was about to post. What I don't know is what the graphene in Mark's sluggo entails, a full rod or an added treatment. I also previously found the Q45T applied to my GG's tubes shifted the sound a bit toward neutral, which the previous 1260 version didn't with a TRP. I have the Q45T elsewhere though, where it hasn't seemed to be the case. Btw, I read somewhere that the people selling Q45T have cut out the smaller container, although their site doesn't show that -- remaining stock? -- and they jacked up the price on the bigger one to $599. Maybe best to watch for sales (Cable Co.).
 
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Mark says, “HP Copper as the substrate and Vacuum Deposited Graphene.”
 
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My SDFB is after two LessLoss 640x- it is a very clear upgrade over QSA red/black even with LessLoss in line before it.
I may try with my SPL pre amp and phono pre one day, right now I am content with my sound.
 
Just for kicks I took out the copper/gold sluggo from my Swiss box and twisted 2 solid gold 28 ga wire around it and reinserted. First impression is I like v. much.
Point being is that having the Swiss box opens a world of options if your into experimenting.
 
Second SDFB in system- now on amp and Audio Mirror DAC. Caution you are adding another AC wire and other conductors so you must allow break in time. The upgrade in SQ is quite fantastic. There is an unstrained and unperturbed quality that for lack of a better explanation I experience as being like listening to good headphones. A strange statement I know but it is unlike anything I have ever heard in a room. So direct and SOLID it seems uninfluenced by the room. It's just in your head. Get the graphene sluggos and spend the $50 for the better AC wire (I upgraded and it's not a small difference.). Absolutley system changing. It's on to the CD transport! I had thought since the amp draws lots of current the SDFB would make the most difference there but the DAC LOVES it. I now consider these mandatory. Equal to upgrading equipment by a cost factor of 3-5 IMO.
 
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Just for kicks I took out the copper/gold sluggo from my Swiss box and twisted 2 solid gold 28 ga wire around it and reinserted. First impression is I like v. much.
Point being is that having the Swiss box opens a world of options if your into experimenting.
I am a bit confused. Why are you opening the Swiss Fusebox? The sluggo goes in the amp., or whatever other audio piece you are using, and replaces the fuse in that piece. The sluggo doesn't go in the fusebox which acts as the fuse for the piece the sluggo went in.
 

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