Since it appears Steve is towards the end of the Russia segment, I’d like to comment on attending the St. Petersburg Philharmonic, which was a highlight of the trip for me. The St. Petersburg Philharmonic is a storied orchestra and Russia’s oldest (1882), and anyone who is anybody in the classical music world has likely played there in the past century or so.
http://www.philharmonia.spb.ru/en/about/orchestra/zkrasof/about/
The Chief conductor is the internationally famous Yuri Temirkanov however the night we were there, his Deputy, Nikolay Alexeev did the honors and he was superb. I loved the programming, which was unconventional by American standards. It was an all-Russian program that began with Tchaikovsky’s Serenade #3, followed by Rachmaninoff’s music for Romeo and Juliet scored for piano and orchestra, and concluded with Scriabin’s Poem of Ecstasy (op 54). In all my years of attending concerts in the US, I have never heard any of these pieces performed as they are off the beaten path. But they were each beautiful and awesome.
It is said that no orchestra plays Tchaikovsky like a Russian orchestra, and this performance made me a believer. Everyone knows Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet, but I had never heard this version by Rachmaninoff. The Rachmaninoff featured the 27 y/o pianist Philip Kopachevsky, a winner of multiple international competitions and whose performance brought the house down. There were time he almost levitated out of his chair and when he finally stood up at the end, I confirmed he only had two hands and not three, since that’s what it sounded like at times.
The sound of the hall was spectacular. It is a classical “shoe-box”, as are many of the best sounding halls in the world, but it was warm, intimate, reverberant, and just fantastic. Each section could be distinctly heard although the seating arrangement was a bit unusual as the stage is not very deep but is very wide as the photo shows. While away, I sent my VTL 7.5 III preamp back for some rolling line changes and when I told Bea Lam I attended this concert, when told me it was one of her favorite halls as well. I can see why.
Ticket prices were very reasonable at about $95 for 12th row dead center obtained months in advance. But that wasn’t as good as the Stanford students seated immediately in front of us who got in for free as part of their exchange program! It was a fantastic evening, capped off by walking back to the hotel around 11 pm while the city was bathed in twilight.