?? What you quoted is SPL. 85+20 = 105dB should be the minimum target for any hi fidelity system to reach if it’s trying to recreate live music.
yes but why are you using 85 as an example? Why not, for example, 100 + 5 db = 105?
?? What you quoted is SPL. 85+20 = 105dB should be the minimum target for any hi fidelity system to reach if it’s trying to recreate live music.
I’m getting more impressed by the J-2 after I hooked it up to my ARC Reference tube preamplifier. Like you accurately said, it has a really lovely sound. I can see why Pass’ First Watt designs are so prized by collectors. The extra power it has gives it a bigger dynamic range than my SETs, but without losing too much of the bloom and dimensionality that makes SETs so enjoyable. All in all, I’m happy I bought it. Highly recommended to SET lovers as well as those who want SET-like sound without the hassles of owning tube gear.
It’s generally accepted that this is the target to reach to reproduce live music, or film, in the home.yes but why are you using 85 as an example? Why not, for example, 100 + 5 db = 105?
I will sign on to the 2W or less crowd! Yes, more power can work magnificently, but flea amps can also sound magnificent with efficient speakers. Most times, it's not how efficient the speakers are rated it's their impedance curve that determines their performance. Not all 95 dB/W/m speakers are equal.I don’t see how a 2W amp can power any speaker adequately.
“Adequate” defined as able to recreate live music. This requires the ability to play 105dB peaks without distortion (ie, 85dB avg plus 20dB headroom). Before you say ‘that’s way too loud, I would never listen at 105dB’, you’re not actually listening at that level and actual live music often exceeds these peaks.
I think it was Art Dudley from Stereophile who measured >105dB from row J in a symphony.
An online calc will give you an idea of how much power you need. Even with 105dB speakers, and that’s about the max you can get, realistically, you need at least 9W, even sitting 3m away.
Link to o
As such, the Kondo Japan Souga (dual 2A3) is the best you can get. Even it is pushing it at only 8W.
(Don’t be too scared by the price. No one pays retail for theseHigh Fidelity
www.highfidelity.pl
I think it‘s dangerous and futile to recreate live levels in a typical indoor listening room for various reasons, not the least of which are the health of your ears. If you go deaf, there’s hardly any point to owning a Hi-Fi, is there?It’s generally accepted that this is the target to reach to reproduce live music, or film, in the home.
If you google what actual peaks are, in a symphony for example, 105 is on the low end.
It’s not a question of whether you can get 20 Hz reproduced in your room. You can get 15 Hz reproduced in a car stereo if you buy enough subs. I have a pair of gigantic REL G1 Mk2s that will comfortably produce bass down to 15 Hz in my large room. REL calls these sub bass systems for a reason. The point I was making is whether bass at 20 Hz or lower for a pipe organ will sound like it does in a concert hall or a church. The basic laws of physics suggest you cannot do it because at 20 Hz or 15 Hz, the wavelengths get so large that they are bigger than the length or width of even the largest listening rooms. So, while you easily reproduce 15 Hz or 20 Hz in even a small room, or a car, it’s not going to sound like a church or concert hall. Nothing wrong with that. Plenty of folks like to blast their car stereo so loud that I sometimes feel my house vibrating! But that’s not concert hall or church quality sound. It’s a manufactured sound. If you like it, there’s nothing wrong with that. Other than possible damage to your ears.@godofwar You are not considering room treatments, which are absolutely essential. The most important thing you can do.
In my small room (~13’x14’) I can get bass to 20Hz. Why? Because of room treatment - absorption and reflection - including an opening to the rest of the house.
You’re not going to go deaf listening to classical for example at live levels. The peaks are just momentary peaks. I have never heard of season ticket holders for the philarmonic going deaf. My dad is a professional Violinist. His hearing is great.
Sure, you’re never going to be 1:1 with a live event, but man you can get really really close. Your brain will always know that you’re not at a live event, but a great system will suspend your disbelief. Every night am I surprised by my system‘s, and brain‘s, ability to do just that!
Your goal may be different of course. In my office, I am not trying to recreate a live event. I actually have ~85db Wilson TuneTots paired with the 8W Kondo amp!
Clearly, it’s time to revisit some basic high school physics here. Sound propagation occurs as a compression of air (see pic below). The laws of physics are of course the same in Carnegie Hall as they are in your living room. What changes dramatically, and my original point if you reread what I wrote, are the dimensions of your room vs. Carnegie Hall. Unless your living room is as large as Carnegie Hall, which I very much doubt, playing back a voice in your room will not sound the same as the same spoken voice in Carnegie Hall.20Hz is the same wavelength whether it’s from a pipe organ or a sub. The laws of physics do not change.
A well designed high-end system and room will sound incredibly real. Yes, including a pipe organ. Try and listen to one someday!
Bingo! I wholeheartedly agree, Ron. Thomas' 45 driving 45 amps are sublime. View attachment 101448
I received them earlier this summer. Thomas warned me that they take time to break in (not something he normally concerns himself with) and he was right. For 6-8 weeks I worried that I had made a mistake. Heck, my wife who is not an audiophile, even commented out of the blue after a month or so, "why do you have to change what works? I like the old amps better".When are you getting the TM 300s?
Hi!I received them earlier this summer. Thomas warned me that they take time to break in (not something he normally concerns himself with) and he was right. For 6-8 weeks I worried that I had made a mistake. Heck, my wife who is not an audiophile, even commented out of the blue after a month or so, "why do you have to change what works? I like the old amps better".
Thankfully, Thomas was right. Now that they are broken in, a direct comparison with the 45 driving 45 amps confirms the upgrade was worth it to me...and my wife. The 45 drives 45 is a beautiful and realistic sounding amp, but the TM300B with silver transformers reveals more natural detail, similar, though more realistic tone colors, and most importantly, more communicative of the artists' emotional intent. At this level, these differences are subtle of course, but nevertheless, easily heard and highly rewarding.