Introducing Olympus & Olympus I/O - A new perspective on modern music playback

For those who just started reading up on Olympus, Olympus I/O, and XDMI, please note that all information in this thread has been summarized in a single PDF document that can be downloaded from the Taiko Website.

https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/taiko-audio-downloads

The document is frequently updated.

Scroll down to the 'XDMI, Olympus Music Server, Olympus I/O' section and click 'XDMI, Olympus, Olympus I/O Product Introduction & FAQ' to download the latest version.

Good morning WBF!​

We are introducing the culmination of close to 4 years of research and development. As a bona fide IT/tech nerd with a passion for music, I have always been intrigued by the potential of leveraging the most modern of technologies in order to create a better music playback experience. This, amongst others, led to the creation of our popular, perhaps even revolutionary, Extreme music server 5 years ago, which we have been steadily improving and updating with new technologies throughout its life cycle. Today I feel we can safely claim it's holding its ground against the onslaught of new server releases from other companies, and we are committed to keep improving it for years to come.

We are introducing a new server model called the Olympus. Hierarchically, it positions itself above the Extreme. It does provide quite a different music experience than the Extreme, or any other server I've heard, for that matter. Conventional audiophile descriptions such as sound staging, dynamics, color palette, etc, fall short to describe this difference. It does not sound digital or analog, I would be inclined to describe it as coming closer to the intended (or unintended) performance of the recording engineer.

Committed to keeping the Extreme as current as possible, we are introducing a second product called the Olympus I/O. This is an external upgrade to the Extreme containing a significant part of the Olympus technology, allowing it to come near, though not entirely at, Olympus performance levels. The Olympus I/O can even be added to the Olympus itself to elevate its performance even further, though not as dramatic an uplift as adding it to the Extreme. Consider it the proverbial "cherry on top".

 

I've had issues with DC barrels being a little loose on my Ghent Audio Angelique DC cables. Given how stiff they are, it is easy to get them no longer contacting if I touch anything in the "nest" of DCD/Router/Switch.

I did have an issue with this chain a few months ago that only could be resolved with a factory reset on the Router. Taiko Support walked me through that, but what a frustration until that point! Just another connection vulnerability to be aware of.....

 

The barrel connectors are definitely tricky. I really like the connectors that have a screw-on component but they take up more room so I get why companies opt for the barrel type. I wish those making cables would use better barrel connectors that are snug.

 

I've gone so far as to fish a rubber band through a wire tie around the barrel connector where it connects then slip the rubber band over the chassis to create a pulling inward motion...Using Oyaide connectors which are not tight enough IMO...

 

I've gone so far as to fish a rubber band through a wire tie around the barrel connector where it connects then slip the rubber band over the chassis to create a pulling inward motion...Using Oyaide connectors which are not tight enough IMO...

That is a very good idea.

What are the best snug-fit barrel connectors?

 

That is a very good idea.

What are the best snug-fit barrel connectors?

 

View attachment 153073

Which cables use them or do you use them on a DIY cable?

 

Which cables use them or do you use them on a DIY cable?

I use them on a DIY Mündorf 1,5mm gold/ silver cable.

 

I use them on a DIY Mündorf 1,5mm gold/ silver cable.

 

Speaking of connections, I went to install my MSB daughter card into my IO , yes I unplugged the connector first . Once card was removed the connector came apart so I'm down . Best part was trying to get the cover off that was machined a bit to big and stuck so tight I almost gave up because the fear of causing damage .

 

You can still use USB.

Can you post a picture of the connector?

 

You can still use USB.

Can you post a picture of the connector?

 

You can still use USB.

Can you post a picture of the connector?

The plate that gets removed to access the card was so tight , with all screws out you could lift IO off blanket and it would hold . It never was put on flush because it was a bit to wide . I don't want to put screws in and force it and end up with cosmetic damage .
As for USB I don't remember isn't the Nic card in IO now pretty sure

 

Since I don’t have an I/O I don;’t know which connector is broken. If it is the link between the I/O and the Olympus then I don’t think USB will work.

 

Since I don’t have an I/O I don;’t know which connector is broken. If it is the link between the I/O and the Olympus then I don’t think USB will work.

It's the connector that plugs into the daughter card , I'm hoping I can get the harness and get back up and running

On your Olympus it would be this connector

 

If that is just for the “O” part of the I/O USB may still work. Only 1 way to find out.

 

It never was put on flush because it was a bit to wide

...is your I/O powder coated or anodized?

 

It's the connector that plugs into the daughter card , I'm hoping I can get the harness and get back up and running

On your Olympus it would be this connector

Looks like a molex type power connector to me.

Guessing but not sure that you need to just shove the wire ends into the correct part of the plastic connector. That will come apart if one pulls on the wire instead of the plastic connector part.

 

Looks like a molex type power connector to me.

Guessing but not sure that you need to just shove the wire ends into the correct part of the plastic connector. That will come apart if one pulls on the wire instead of the plastic connector part.

Can't just shove them in they were welded to the tab.Like I said no idea why it would just come off never pulled on wires and it was unplugged. I'll wait to hear from Taiko

 

Looks like a molex type power connector to me.

Guessing but not sure that you need to just shove the wire ends into the correct part of the plastic connector. That will come apart if one pulls on the wire instead of the plastic connector part.

Can't just shove them in they were welded to the tab.Like I said no idea why it would just come off never pulled on wires and it was unplugged. I'll wait to hear from Taiko

This is indeed a molex-type connector, into which individual clamp-ended wires can be clipped as needed. Each wire locks into place inside the connector via small clips on the sides. It is essential to observe the order and position of the wires.

We have sent a replacement wire harness, enabling a plug-and-play solution.

 

Of the two Olympus USB connectors, is there a preference in SQ for one of them?