Aesthetix Io Users Group

Jeffy

Well-Known Member
Apr 27, 2014
479
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Orchard Lake, MI
Jeffy, yes you said so before (post 105) - and I asked (post 111), what DAC could that be? So far, I have not heard a digital chain that fully reproduces the sound of the Io playing direct. I wonder if it exists. To me, it seems that flagship top level DACs (like Esotetic Grandioso) goes up to extreme prices to almost reach the best direct analog level. Maybe just my ignorance speaking, I haven't tried them! Since this thread is about the Io, not DACs, this is a bit off topic. Still it may be relevant for Io users. If the point is to capture the Io sound as well as possible, the ADC is more important than the DAC. Get the recording right (through the ADC), and you can get a better DAC later (with prices coming down). The Tascam DA-3000 is not a top of the line ADC, I am only saying,it works quite well, so you get a very real extra benefit from the Io, recording from vinyl. You can bring your recording along and play it from a small DAP. The three box Io stays where it is.

Regarding Io sound quality: well yes perhaps it is a little dark in my setup also, but it is not something that bothers me. Background tube noise was maybe a bit reduced, upgrading to eclipse, or maybe what I hear is the higher resolution, thereby in effect improving the signal-noise ratio. Anyway, the effect is that I can live with Telefunken NOS in the critical first stage even if they aren't super-quiet. Good news, since these are now very hard to find.

I have a simple test: First, listen to the Io without playing the LP, volume quite high, until you clearly hear the background noise. This is where you hear the tube noise, and maybe a bit of "cooking" sound. Next, at the same volume level, put down the cartridge carefully in between tracks or at the end of the LP (DON'T put it in a part with music recorded or you might ruin your speakers). This is where you will hear the background noise from the LP itself. Step three: compare the two. If the tube noise is louder than the LP noise, it is probably time for a tube change. Ideally it should be very low, in comparison, but this is hard to achieve (at least with NOS), and I can live with it, as long as it is "masked" by the background vinyl noise.
OGH get a Bricasti 21 dac and you will be suprised. I owned and tried many dacs including Aesthetix, your Teac, Nagra, Totaldac, Lampizator, and MSB.
 

OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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Jeffty - OK, thanks.
 

OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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A note on "housekeeping"

Even here in Norway, the weather may be warm, and the Io may need ventilation. To reduce problems through heat over time, no good for electronics or tubes, I made an inexpensive DIY tweak.

I bought two computer fans, and installed them on the wall behind the stereo rack. One points to the Io, one towards the power supplies.
To drive them, I found a 12 volt "battery eliminator" / trafo I had on the loft. Not costly to buy.

To get them to drive REALLY silent I adjusted the fan speed futher down by insterting a resistor. Cheap and easy. I can scarcely hear the fans standing next to the system, and not at all from the listener position.

To control them, I use a cheap remote for "smart" devices - turn off and on. Works fine. In the future, it could be termostate-controlled.

This is a type of solution that is relevant not just for Io, but for all your hot boxes in the stereo system. The less heat, over time, the less chance of problems or need for service.
 
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audioquest4life

Well-Known Member
Sep 23, 2020
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A note on "housekeeping"

Even here in Norway, the weather may be warm, and the Io may need ventilation. To reduce problems through heat over time, no good for electronics or tubes, I made an inexpensive DIY tweak.

I bought two computer fans, and installed them on the wall behind the stereo rack. One points to the Io, one towards the power supplies.
To drive them, I found a 12 volt "battery eliminator" / trafo I had on the loft. Not costly to buy.

To get them to drive REALLY silent I adjusted the fan speed futher down by insterting a resistor. Cheap and easy. I can scarcely hear the fans standing next to the system, and not at all from the listener position.

To control them, I use a cheap remote for "smart" devices - turn off and on. Works fine. In the future, it could be termostate-controlled.

This is a type of solution that is relevant not just for Io, but for all your hot boxes in the stereo system. The less heat, over time, the less chance of problems or need for service.
A note on "housekeeping"

Even here in Norway, the weather may be warm, and the Io may need ventilation. To reduce problems through heat over time, no good for electronics or tubes, I made an inexpensive DIY tweak.

I bought two computer fans, and installed them on the wall behind the stereo rack. One points to the Io, one towards the power supplies.
To drive them, I found a 12 volt "battery eliminator" / trafo I had on the loft. Not costly to buy.

To get them to drive REALLY silent I adjusted the fan speed futher down by insterting a resistor. Cheap and easy. I can scarcely hear the fans standing next to the system, and not at all from the listener position.

To control them, I use a cheap remote for "smart" devices - turn off and on. Works fine. In the future, it could be termostate-controlled.

This is a type of solution that is relevant not just for Io, but for all your hot boxes in the stereo system. The less heat, over time, the less chance of problems or need for service.

Sounds like a great cooling solution. Does this solution help to push the warm air out of the room or more so directly cool the components? I am wondering if there is a residual effect of the cooling where it is able to push the heat out of the room since the heat has to go somewhere, especially, if you have a dedicated cave that is highly sealed for soundproofing.
 

dan31

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Jul 22, 2010
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Nice solution to heat building up in the components OGH. I have been lucky enough to have space around my components. I have the Io power supply supported on floor off to the side of the rack by a few feet. The majority of the heat comes from the Io power supply and my Spectral DMA-260 stereo amp. I do have a sliding door that opens to the outside to allow for some ventilation in the room.
 
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OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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It is a bit of both - directed towards the component, but so that the main air direction is out into the room, to get the main heat "off" from the rack.
 

OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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In my case, a combined living / listening room, the system has to be placed on a rack on the front wall. Not ideal but fairly typical.
 

OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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Does anyone have the schema for a balanced tonearm cable, DIN plug in one end (to SME V arm in my case) to XLR? I probably can't just take off the RCA plugs on my cable and use XLR plugs instead - ? Although I am quite happy with the (modded) Kimber KCAG that I use, I would like to hear what happens with a balanced cable. I have asked in shops but they are not so easy to find over here (in Norway).
 

dan31

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Jul 22, 2010
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Just FYI, I believe SME wires their tone arms from clips to the din differently than others. I believe they may reverse the + and - leads to the din. At least double check before commiting to wiring up the phono cable.
 

OGH

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Oct 9, 2020
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Thank you, dan31. +1 to Ayre for clear instructions. I hesitate, though. Soldering the leads to the small Din may require more steady hands than I have. Changing from RCA to XLR plugs may be doable. But would it work? I have already tried a separate (fifth) lead from a screw on the tonearm to the ground screw on the Io, without noting any difference. My best option is probably to try a balanced cable, on home loan, first.
 

dan31

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Other than a different phono cable there is little to gain going balanced into the Io. The signal for the xlr inputs is sent to an unbalanced first gain stage. A loaner cable is a great way to try the xlr input and experiment with a new cable.
 
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audioquest4life

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Sep 23, 2020
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Other than a different phono cable there is little to gain going balanced into the Io. The signal for the xlr inputs is sent to an unbalanced first gain stage. A loaner cable is a great way to try the xlr input and experiment with a new cable.
I just ordered Audioquest Fire XLR cables to go from my IOs balanced outputs to the Octave Jubilee balanced inputs. This is going to replace a pair of Audioquest Sky cables that have served me well for years. I will post updates when the IO returns as a partial Eclipse and I get the system back together.
 
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Kcin

VIP/Donor
Mar 27, 2016
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Canada
Other than a different phono cable there is little to gain going balanced into the Io. The signal for the xlr inputs is sent to an unbalanced first gain stage. A loaner cable is a great way to try the xlr input and experiment with a new cable.
This is true and the reason why balanced never really made a very appreciable difference to me. I found wire and connectors far more influential than balanced. I ended up with a custom braided silver/cotton sheath for my arms that use DIN/RCA. The 4 point is direct all one piece.

YMMV and all that.
 

Ron Resnick

Site Co-Owner, Administrator
Jan 24, 2015
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. . . The first stage is single ended so there is no obvious advantage from a circuit perspective.

Yes; it was for this reason that I assumed that single-ended phono cable made more sense.
 

audioquest4life

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Sep 23, 2020
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Power cables? What power cables are folks using with their IO? I have been using Shunyata Black Mamba for years. I recently added a new Alpha NR2 To the system. Thinking about getting some more for the two power supplies, and other components.
 

Kcin

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Mar 27, 2016
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Power cables? What power cables are folks using with their IO? I have been using Shunyata Black Mamba for years. I recently added a new Alpha NR2 To the system. Thinking about getting some more for the two power supplies, and other components.

I am a big believer on the impact of power cables and power connectors for our audio components. Proper connections and the correct topology for power cords will have a greater impact than any other cable that is easily discernable for even unexperienced listeners. Whether that impact is suitable is up to you.

There is such a diversity out there that it is impossible to try them all. I had used Shunyata for a number of years with the Io- their naming conventions are so confusing to me- I don't really know what I was using. Those Shunyata's have been relegated to other duties around the system or packed away.

I have since tried many others and based on performance in my system settled on the Audioquest Hurricanes . I find them capable in really delineating detail in the lower most registers in very natural coherent way that really works with my electrostatic line sources . I was never really a fan of audioquest- outside of their tremendous depth in each product line - but I think their engineer hit a home run this series of power cables even though they are likely made in China.

They are extremely inflexible and where you might of gotten away with a 1 metre in the past you may need a 1.5 metre in order to delvelop a loop to arrange how they connect- especially if you are up against a wall.

Worth considering, they are widely available and you may be able to get a home audition at some vendors.
 
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dan31

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Jul 22, 2010
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I have been using a CH Acoustic XP20. This is the company that built the deluxe cable HZ for Running Springs Audio before they were purchased. I also use Shunyata Alpha HC.
 
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Kcin

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I think I will build a set of umbilical power cables for the Io - given all this upgrade talk. If anyone has suggestions for materials let me know. Building umbilicals are a lot of work. It will be a project. As far as I know, within some material I read some time ago I believe the current internal wiring and umbilicals are sourced Cardas raw wire. Someone correct me otherwise.

The multipin connectors are readily available as is flex tubing. I can easily add braided screen sheathing and ringing out the wires is easy enough. The time to construct will be the issue and making a good choice on cable. I will let others know when I get close to assembling my choices. More work!
 
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oldvinyl

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Jun 3, 2017
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Specific Northwest - Seattle area
Connectors are:

CPC plug 206150-1 (2) each
CPC plug 206305-1 (2) each


Wiring is straight through. Grounds on pins 2, 4, 7 need to be separate (do not connect them together).
The wiring is for heater and returns, they can be twisted pair. Shield each pair, then shield the bundle.

Contact me on email if you want the whole spec.
 

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